How do I adjust my second TPS ???
09-03-07, 09:01 AM
#6
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Read the FSM someday, please.
Fully warm up the engine. Fully warmed up. Read the output of the narrow and then the Full range outputs of the TPS. IF the full range is approx 0.8 VOLTS DC, and the narrow range is approx ONE VOLT DC, then there is no problem with the TPS at all and leave it ALONE. Get off that dumb *** ohming out the TPS bullshit.
The TPS is NOT used to set the idle of the engine.
Fully warm up the engine. Fully warmed up. Read the output of the narrow and then the Full range outputs of the TPS. IF the full range is approx 0.8 VOLTS DC, and the narrow range is approx ONE VOLT DC, then there is no problem with the TPS at all and leave it ALONE. Get off that dumb *** ohming out the TPS bullshit.
The TPS is NOT used to set the idle of the engine.
09-03-07, 09:16 AM
#7
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Cause the narrow range is ok(0.9k), but not the full range(1.3k)...
Originally Posted by Me
Your volts sound right.
Get off that dumb *** ohming out the TPS bullshit.
Last edited by RotaMan99; 09-03-07 at 09:25 AM.
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09-03-07, 09:40 AM
#8
I did my homework before my post
All my reading are made (fully warm and everything...)
1.3k full rang (0.6 - 0.9)
0.9 narrow range. (0.8 - 1.2)
I want to adjust it because my car runs ok when the TPS is unpluged...
Wanted to know how to adjust the Full Range TPS. That's all...
All my reading are made (fully warm and everything...)
1.3k full rang (0.6 - 0.9)
0.9 narrow range. (0.8 - 1.2)
I want to adjust it because my car runs ok when the TPS is unpluged...
Wanted to know how to adjust the Full Range TPS. That's all...
09-03-07, 10:36 AM
#9
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It's a SELF ADJUSTING TPS.
Read the OUTPUT of the TPS in VOLTS DC at the narrow and fuill range pins at the ECU or at the TPS plug with the TPS plug fully connected. IF the rull and narrow range are within the figures given on the OUTPUT/INPUT page of the FSM, then leave it alone and find out what the real problem is.
And the FULL range TPS is ONLY used for the metering of the OMP and not a thing else. It can't be messing up your idle/whatever.
Read the OUTPUT of the TPS in VOLTS DC at the narrow and fuill range pins at the ECU or at the TPS plug with the TPS plug fully connected. IF the rull and narrow range are within the figures given on the OUTPUT/INPUT page of the FSM, then leave it alone and find out what the real problem is.
And the FULL range TPS is ONLY used for the metering of the OMP and not a thing else. It can't be messing up your idle/whatever.
09-03-07, 10:53 AM
#11
um....the FSM for S5's gives the ranges in kohms....
0.6 - 0.9 kohm for full
0.8 - 1.2 kohm for narrow.
Why would we use volts when Mazda specifies kohms?
There is a way to adjust full range TPS, but it doesn't work very well and most of the problems, if they go away at all, they'll probably come back really soon. After you do that, you have to reset the ECU and let the ECU relearn your TPS. Note that this will wipe the ECU's memory.
The full range does affect drivability though.....I have a clean sweep on my narrow, but i have weird resistance jump right when the full is let out slightly. At neutral, if the full is slightly opened (say, using your hand to press on the throttle cable slightly), the rpm's will jump up and down.
0.6 - 0.9 kohm for full
0.8 - 1.2 kohm for narrow.
Why would we use volts when Mazda specifies kohms?
There is a way to adjust full range TPS, but it doesn't work very well and most of the problems, if they go away at all, they'll probably come back really soon. After you do that, you have to reset the ECU and let the ECU relearn your TPS. Note that this will wipe the ECU's memory.
The full range does affect drivability though.....I have a clean sweep on my narrow, but i have weird resistance jump right when the full is let out slightly. At neutral, if the full is slightly opened (say, using your hand to press on the throttle cable slightly), the rpm's will jump up and down.
Last edited by Roen; 09-03-07 at 10:59 AM.
09-03-07, 11:24 AM
#12
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And the FULL range TPS is ONLY used for the metering of the OMP and not a thing else. It can't be messing up your idle/whatever.
09-03-07, 11:31 AM
#13
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um....the FSM for S5's gives the ranges in kohms....
0.6 - 0.9 kohm for full
0.8 - 1.2 kohm for narrow.
Why would we use volts when Mazda specifies kohms?
There is a way to adjust full range TPS, but it doesn't work very well and most of the problems, if they go away at all, they'll probably come back really soon. After you do that, you have to reset the ECU and let the ECU relearn your TPS. Note that this will wipe the ECU's memory.
The full range does affect drivability though.....I have a clean sweep on my narrow, but i have weird resistance jump right when the full is let out slightly. At neutral, if the full is slightly opened (say, using your hand to press on the throttle cable slightly), the rpm's will jump up and down.
0.6 - 0.9 kohm for full
0.8 - 1.2 kohm for narrow.
Why would we use volts when Mazda specifies kohms?
There is a way to adjust full range TPS, but it doesn't work very well and most of the problems, if they go away at all, they'll probably come back really soon. After you do that, you have to reset the ECU and let the ECU relearn your TPS. Note that this will wipe the ECU's memory.
The full range does affect drivability though.....I have a clean sweep on my narrow, but i have weird resistance jump right when the full is let out slightly. At neutral, if the full is slightly opened (say, using your hand to press on the throttle cable slightly), the rpm's will jump up and down.
09-03-07, 01:04 PM
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09-03-07, 01:54 PM
#20
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F1....page 80.......Control System. The Turbo section says the same thing. My words *Input/Output* were wrong for the series five. It's CONTROL SYSTEM instead. That page shows the Inputs/Outputs for each pin on the ECU with the car at idle and with the key to just ON.
The only way the other half of the tps can be changed without changing the fsm's way of setting the TPS, is to bend the bracket in your favor.
Last edited by HAILERS; 09-03-07 at 01:59 PM.
09-18-07, 10:24 PM
#22
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I backprobe the wires at the ECU or the wires at the TPS's connector.........with the key to ON. BUT THEN ENGINE MUST BE FULLY HOT TO DO THIS.
Since this is a non turbo the TPS plug is easily got at. I don't know about your meter, but if you put the neg lead on a known gnd, then you can put the positive probe in the back side of the TPS plug. Maybe get a sewing needle and put it in the backside of the tps plug and put the meter probe on the needle. I forget the wire color right now.
EDIT: The FULL range wire is Black/Green. The NARROW range is Green/Red.
Leave all the connectors connected on the car. Key to ON or tell you what, idle the darn car. Then find the tps connector and put the metes neg lead on a known gnd and the positive on the black/green wire and read the voltage and then the green/red wire and read the voltage. It should fall in the range of what is writtne in the FSM. The page I mentioned in a post above.
The engine must be HOT. So idle the thing to keep it hot while checking the tps .
Or you can use a sewing needle to ***** the wire you want to look at with the meter touching the needle. Not the prefered method but works.
Since this is a non turbo the TPS plug is easily got at. I don't know about your meter, but if you put the neg lead on a known gnd, then you can put the positive probe in the back side of the TPS plug. Maybe get a sewing needle and put it in the backside of the tps plug and put the meter probe on the needle. I forget the wire color right now.
EDIT: The FULL range wire is Black/Green. The NARROW range is Green/Red.
Leave all the connectors connected on the car. Key to ON or tell you what, idle the darn car. Then find the tps connector and put the metes neg lead on a known gnd and the positive on the black/green wire and read the voltage and then the green/red wire and read the voltage. It should fall in the range of what is writtne in the FSM. The page I mentioned in a post above.
The engine must be HOT. So idle the thing to keep it hot while checking the tps .
Or you can use a sewing needle to ***** the wire you want to look at with the meter touching the needle. Not the prefered method but works.
Last edited by HAILERS; 09-18-07 at 10:35 PM.
09-18-07, 11:20 PM
#23
Thanks for the tips, I've been trying to stick the damn probe in for awhile but couldn't figure out a way to get contact on the wire. I'll try the needle next time.
You can set the TPS while it's idling??? Every guide has always said, turn the engine off when you adjust.
You can set the TPS while it's idling??? Every guide has always said, turn the engine off when you adjust.
09-19-07, 09:47 AM
#24
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There's a reason I mention the engine should be hot. There is a device called a thermowax. When the engine is cold,this thermowax's piston will retract which in turn causes the throttle linkage to move. IF the throttle linkage moves it follows the tps's plunger moves. IF the plunger moves the voltage output changes.
The tps was meant to be set with the water thermowax's piston fully extended wihich in turn results in the thermowax's piston fully Disengaging the throttle linkage. That is when you want to set the TPS. This condition is met with a fully HOT engine. Just in case.......the temp of the water is what causes the thermowax's piston to extend.
Once fully extended it matters not if the engine is idling or not. If idling it's a given that it'll stay extended. But if you shut the engine off and fiddle **** around too long, the piston will start retracting and make contact with the linkage once more. Not good. Usually that won't happen for a good while, but on a cold day with a sitff breeze it happens fairly quick.
Then again, if you look at that page I mentioned, the voltage output of the full and narrow range tps are with the engine idling.
If you feel more comfortable following the other procedures, then just follow the other procedures. I'm just saying that wnen the tps is set right, it will meet the criteria on that page that shows the narrow and full range outputs in dcvolts
You can even get a piece of wire and strip each end. Wrap one end around the positive meter probe and stick the other bare end into the rear of the socket where the wire is.
The tps was meant to be set with the water thermowax's piston fully extended wihich in turn results in the thermowax's piston fully Disengaging the throttle linkage. That is when you want to set the TPS. This condition is met with a fully HOT engine. Just in case.......the temp of the water is what causes the thermowax's piston to extend.
Once fully extended it matters not if the engine is idling or not. If idling it's a given that it'll stay extended. But if you shut the engine off and fiddle **** around too long, the piston will start retracting and make contact with the linkage once more. Not good. Usually that won't happen for a good while, but on a cold day with a sitff breeze it happens fairly quick.
Then again, if you look at that page I mentioned, the voltage output of the full and narrow range tps are with the engine idling.
If you feel more comfortable following the other procedures, then just follow the other procedures. I'm just saying that wnen the tps is set right, it will meet the criteria on that page that shows the narrow and full range outputs in dcvolts
You can even get a piece of wire and strip each end. Wrap one end around the positive meter probe and stick the other bare end into the rear of the socket where the wire is.
09-19-07, 11:06 AM
#25
Nono, I know about the thermowax, and how you can set TPS cold when you remove the thermowax from the car. I just didn't know you could set it with the car idling.
The only thing that prevents me from going through the back of the connector are the rubber/foamy things that fill up the space in the clip/harness for each wire. That's pretty much my main difficulty.
The only thing that prevents me from going through the back of the connector are the rubber/foamy things that fill up the space in the clip/harness for each wire. That's pretty much my main difficulty.