2nd Generation Specific (1986-1992) 1986-1992 Discussion including performance modifications and technical support sections.

How to check injectors?

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Old Oct 4, 2001 | 01:10 PM
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raceindy97's Avatar
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From: Long Island, NY
How to check injectors?

I have to check my primary and secondary injectors. Can any one tell me a good way of doing that. I want to make sure that they are not leaking and they are not clogged up. Thanx.
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Old Oct 4, 2001 | 11:15 PM
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raceindy97's Avatar
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bump, can't anybody help?
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Old Oct 4, 2001 | 11:26 PM
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From: Charlotte NC
Have them cleaned by someone and blueprinted. I know of no other way to tell other than the behavior of the car starting and running.
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Old Oct 4, 2001 | 11:42 PM
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As far as your secondary injectors being clogged, the biggest hint for that is your cars performance above 3800 rpm WOT. If the car makes good power above 3800 rpm, your secondary injectors are not clogged. If your car makes good power up to 3800 rpm WOT, your primary injectors are not clogged. As far as leaking goes, if you have a fuel pressure guage, tee it in, pull the ECU fuse, and crank the car until you get about 38 psi. Stop cranking, and watch the pressure. If the injectors are leaking, any of them, your fuel pressure will drop. Of course, this could be the return line (fuel tank) check valve. You may want to try this again with the return line pinched shut.
If you have no fuel pressure guage, do as I suggested above. After about 5 minutes, pull the leading plugs, and crank again. If the injectors were leaking, you will smell gas coming out of the leading spark plug holes.

All these methods do not require removing the throttle body/intake plenum assembly. If you want to go this route, let us know in this thread, and I or someone else will advise you further. Good luck.

Irv, Keith's dad
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Old Oct 5, 2001 | 07:56 AM
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HAILERS
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So you wanta do it the hard way? You have a n/a. Good. Start with the secondary injectors. Loosen the secondary fuel rail and lift the injectors out of the bores. Now zip tie the injectors to the rail. Now by hook or crook make a two wire harness that will connect to the injector(old injector plug). One wire to a gnd, the other a alligator clip that will go to the pos post of the batt. For accuracy put a graduated container under the injector to be tested first. Now turn the ingnition key on but do not start the car. Now(lotta nows here) on or near the r/h strut tower is a plug that you jumper to turn the fuel pump on(bypasses the micro sw in the afm). The fuel rail is now pressurized to about 40psi. Are they leaking? Now get your watch out. Connect the pos wire to the batt pos post for exactly 60 seconds. After 60 seconds turn the key off and measure the volume. The specs are in the factory manual at http://www.iluvmyrx7.com its very free. Download the fuel section 4A. The same procedure is there except they use specialized equip with special numbers. I call the zip ties number one and the graduated beaker number two(low volume humor here). Do the above to the other injector. Now for the primaries take the dynamic chamber off and swap the injector positions and check out the primaries. So you say *WHY ON GOD'S GREEN EARTH WHOULD SOMEONE DO THAT*. Because I had a bushel of injectors mixed up and could not tell which were 460's or 550's and measured the volume of each to find out. Oh yes, don't trust colors of injectors to tell what is what. And a disclaimer here. The injectors are not hot, so that is a factor that you need to evaluate. Not a major, but still a factor. So Irv, how goes it? Thanks for the reply on the FPR on another post. Bud.

Last edited by HAILERS; Oct 5, 2001 at 07:59 AM.
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