how to change oil??
06-25-08, 07:26 PM
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how to change oil??
Hi, ive checked the FSM and google to look for a descriptive guide on how to change the oil on my 87 rx7 but i could not find anything. Can anyone write one up or provide a link on how to change my engine oil? pictures would be nice. please and thank you.
06-25-08, 07:43 PM
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jack up front of car.. get under car..unscrew oil plug bolt.. let oil drain into bucket.. put bolt back on.. lower car..put oil in tube that has oil cap.. FIN
06-25-08, 08:03 PM
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seriously its as easy as drain and fill... just dont forget to do the filter which is easy on these as long as it wants to come off. Although the intercooler is in the way on turbo's.
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06-25-08, 09:31 PM
#11
Nope. He's correct, your are definitely supposed to warm up the engine before an oil change. That way the oil picks up all the crap and makes it drain way easier. If you burn yourself you need a mechanic to do it instead.
Every manual I have ever read states clearly step 1 to warm up the engine......
06-25-08, 09:44 PM
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What no way. Looks like I learned something new today. I guess I got to do that from now on. Wear gloves when you change it then I guess..lolz
Nope. He's correct, your are definitely supposed to warm up the engine before an oil change. That way the oil picks up all the crap and makes it drain way easier. If you burn yourself you need a mechanic to do it instead.
Every manual I have ever read states clearly step 1 to warm up the engine......
Nope. He's correct, your are definitely supposed to warm up the engine before an oil change. That way the oil picks up all the crap and makes it drain way easier. If you burn yourself you need a mechanic to do it instead.
Every manual I have ever read states clearly step 1 to warm up the engine......
06-25-08, 09:50 PM
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Thanks to everyone who replied. I really do deserve a good bash for not knowing how to change my oil. Thanks for the picture, it really helps. Will change oil tomorrow.
06-26-08, 12:15 PM
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Ok, 100% serious post here, just read up there how to change oil. Remove said plug on the picture from under your car. Let it drain. As it's draining, remove oil filter which is located on driver side of engine next to firewall. Get new oil filter. I use Mobil-1, M4-104 I think is the number. Use old oil and lightly coat the black rubber on bottom of new oil filter. Screw new oil filter on.
This is where some people differ. I then unscrew the oil cap and pour some oil into the engine to see if it can get any of the old stuff out. You dont have to though, nothing really changes because on your oil cooler there is old oil(which I havent been able to drain yet myself.)
Now screw back on the oil drain plug(the one under the engine) make sure it's tight, but not to tight. Stripping that is a PIA. Then pour new oil in.
Now is the type of oil you use. Rotaries do not like any Synthetic Oil. Royal Purple is an exception though. It's been tested with rotaries. Other then synthetic, I use Castrol GTX 5W-30. It's best to use the oil the car has been using, but if you don't know, change to one your going to be using for a while. It's summer here and around 80-100 degrees. I think it is 5-1/2 quarts to get it to the right level. Replace all caps and etc.
Drive for a block or two. Stop, turn car off, check oil level. Add if needed.
There is a complete guide for you. Good luck :P But yea, I was serious earlier about watching a mechanic do it first. After you watch, it's really easy. Or ask a friend. But again, good luck and have fun learning about rotaries....they really are fun.
This is where some people differ. I then unscrew the oil cap and pour some oil into the engine to see if it can get any of the old stuff out. You dont have to though, nothing really changes because on your oil cooler there is old oil(which I havent been able to drain yet myself.)
Now screw back on the oil drain plug(the one under the engine) make sure it's tight, but not to tight. Stripping that is a PIA. Then pour new oil in.
Now is the type of oil you use. Rotaries do not like any Synthetic Oil. Royal Purple is an exception though. It's been tested with rotaries. Other then synthetic, I use Castrol GTX 5W-30. It's best to use the oil the car has been using, but if you don't know, change to one your going to be using for a while. It's summer here and around 80-100 degrees. I think it is 5-1/2 quarts to get it to the right level. Replace all caps and etc.
Drive for a block or two. Stop, turn car off, check oil level. Add if needed.
There is a complete guide for you. Good luck :P But yea, I was serious earlier about watching a mechanic do it first. After you watch, it's really easy. Or ask a friend. But again, good luck and have fun learning about rotaries....they really are fun.
06-26-08, 12:50 PM
#23
Former Moderator. RIP Icemark.
Don't forget to poke a small hole in the top of the oil filter before removing it.
The Mazda OEM filters and some aftermarket filter have an anti-drainback valve in the filter, and will retain quite a bit of oil. (Of course I only recommend Mazda OEM oil filters, they are the best out there, three times the surface area of Fram filters and double the area of most Purolater and WIX/ Mobil1 filters).
Anyway, this oil will spill all over as soon as the seal loosens enough to let air in; if you just remove the oil filter.
So poke a small hole in the top of the filter with a screw driver and hammer about 5 minutes before you actually remove the oil filter and the oil filter will drain all that oil to the pan, and you won't get oil everywhere when you remove the filter.
No, Rotaries don't like crappy oil... synthetic or conventional. Good synthetics and good conventional oils are just fine.
The Mazda OEM filters and some aftermarket filter have an anti-drainback valve in the filter, and will retain quite a bit of oil. (Of course I only recommend Mazda OEM oil filters, they are the best out there, three times the surface area of Fram filters and double the area of most Purolater and WIX/ Mobil1 filters).
Anyway, this oil will spill all over as soon as the seal loosens enough to let air in; if you just remove the oil filter.
So poke a small hole in the top of the filter with a screw driver and hammer about 5 minutes before you actually remove the oil filter and the oil filter will drain all that oil to the pan, and you won't get oil everywhere when you remove the filter.
No, Rotaries don't like crappy oil... synthetic or conventional. Good synthetics and good conventional oils are just fine.
06-26-08, 01:47 PM
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