How can I make my rx7 this fast ( vid inside)
05-28-10, 05:48 PM
#28
Thanks man. The motor cost me quite a bit. Brand new everything but side housings which is biting me in the *** right now cause I think the gas in my oil thing has alot to do with the used side housings. I've rebuilt this particular motor 3 times for different reasons here and there 
so the motor alone is probably like a 7 or 8 thousand dollar motor, argggg. Lessons learned though and that's priceless. Now the engine setup? I have no idea just because I quite counting long ago!!!
One thing I can say is never skimp on a project! The lesson I'm learning right now is to get a good quality turbo! I bought a masterpower cause I heard some good things about it. Turns out it's a gamble buying one and I'm no good at gambling. I went all the way to florida for the second time to get it tuned by kilo and the turbo lasted about 100 miles after that and had so much shaft play that it was tearing up the housing. So now I'm ditching the ebay log style manifold (even though I got it reinforced and ceramic coated) and am going with a quality greddy fully divided manifold along with a borge warner 72mm turbo.
so the motor alone is probably like a 7 or 8 thousand dollar motor, argggg. Lessons learned though and that's priceless. Now the engine setup? I have no idea just because I quite counting long ago!!!One thing I can say is never skimp on a project! The lesson I'm learning right now is to get a good quality turbo! I bought a masterpower cause I heard some good things about it. Turns out it's a gamble buying one and I'm no good at gambling. I went all the way to florida for the second time to get it tuned by kilo and the turbo lasted about 100 miles after that and had so much shaft play that it was tearing up the housing. So now I'm ditching the ebay log style manifold (even though I got it reinforced and ceramic coated) and am going with a quality greddy fully divided manifold along with a borge warner 72mm turbo.
Last edited by hondahater; 05-28-10 at 05:52 PM.
05-29-10, 09:53 AM
#29
Rotary
Thread Starter
Mehhh a conservative half bridge will not kill reliablity what so ever but a monster bridge that cuts into the water jackets will for sure. Get a large street or a conservative half bridge and you will be fine.
edit: And I'm always down for beer
I'm in lake charles so you could always drive it to me 
And just so you know, this isn't from internet here say, I've been there and done that with my car, lol
edit: And I'm always down for beer
I'm in lake charles so you could always drive it to me And just so you know, this isn't from internet here say, I've been there and done that with my car, lol
Nice.. Yeah I go to kenner LA, a lot too visit my brother ( he is a bmw master tech) and when me and friends go we just take our bike ( 2010 R1). Wow your car is gorgeous!!! how much power did you make?
Bridges only fall off when they are cut by people who shouldn't be building engines. 
It is also fairly easy to make a turbo bridgeport quiet. The turbo is already an effective muffler, and with a quality resonator and a proper dual exhaust it will be quiet.
Anyway, to the original poster, most of the stuff has already been laid out.
GT40R
Half bridge (though stock ports would work, I think you would find the lag unacceptable)
720CC/1600CC
Big fuel pump
Good standalone (Haltech, Megasquirt if you are into DIY)
Big front mount
4" downpipe, 3" mid-pipe, 2.5" or 3" duel cat-back
Making that power isn't really hard, but unless you have the hands-on advice of a knowledgeable rotary tuner, be prepared to go through an engine.
And then getting that power to the ground is going to be a bit difficult.
But please, whatever you do, don't drive like those douches in the video. Every one of them tailgating at unsafe speeds, racing on public roads, etc.
It is also fairly easy to make a turbo bridgeport quiet. The turbo is already an effective muffler, and with a quality resonator and a proper dual exhaust it will be quiet.Anyway, to the original poster, most of the stuff has already been laid out.
GT40R
Half bridge (though stock ports would work, I think you would find the lag unacceptable)
720CC/1600CC
Big fuel pump
Good standalone (Haltech, Megasquirt if you are into DIY)
Big front mount
4" downpipe, 3" mid-pipe, 2.5" or 3" duel cat-back
Making that power isn't really hard, but unless you have the hands-on advice of a knowledgeable rotary tuner, be prepared to go through an engine.
And then getting that power to the ground is going to be a bit difficult.
But please, whatever you do, don't drive like those douches in the video. Every one of them tailgating at unsafe speeds, racing on public roads, etc.
I will not be doing Hway runs like that at all. Im just doing a complete restoration on my car that I bought for $100 and I figured I might as well give it some real power lol..
Thanks man. The motor cost me quite a bit. Brand new everything but side housings which is biting me in the *** right now cause I think the gas in my oil thing has alot to do with the used side housings. I've rebuilt this particular motor 3 times for different reasons here and there so the motor alone is probably like a 7 or 8 thousand dollar motor, argggg. Lessons learned though and that's priceless. Now the engine setup? I have no idea just because I quite counting long ago!!!
One thing I can say is never skimp on a project! The lesson I'm learning right now is to get a good quality turbo! I bought a masterpower cause I heard some good things about it. Turns out it's a gamble buying one and I'm no good at gambling. I went all the way to florida for the second time to get it tuned by kilo and the turbo lasted about 100 miles after that and had so much shaft play that it was tearing up the housing. So now I'm ditching the ebay log style manifold (even though I got it reinforced and ceramic coated) and am going with a quality greddy fully divided manifold along with a borge warner 72mm turbo.
so the motor alone is probably like a 7 or 8 thousand dollar motor, argggg. Lessons learned though and that's priceless. Now the engine setup? I have no idea just because I quite counting long ago!!!One thing I can say is never skimp on a project! The lesson I'm learning right now is to get a good quality turbo! I bought a masterpower cause I heard some good things about it. Turns out it's a gamble buying one and I'm no good at gambling. I went all the way to florida for the second time to get it tuned by kilo and the turbo lasted about 100 miles after that and had so much shaft play that it was tearing up the housing. So now I'm ditching the ebay log style manifold (even though I got it reinforced and ceramic coated) and am going with a quality greddy fully divided manifold along with a borge warner 72mm turbo.
05-29-10, 04:18 PM
#31
Rotary
Thread Starter
05-29-10, 08:58 PM
#32
Banned. I got OWNED!!!
'cuz da only way to roll is wit dat shi slammed like a bish rollin' 21x25 -450offset rims yo... holla!
Add to that list someone that knows how to run a dyno and build RELIABLE maps
05-30-10, 12:47 PM
#34
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so they pretty much covered it all before i could get to it.. lol. so basically what he said will do. or you can go the honda way and put stickers all over it, get a huge fin, a HUGE wing and altezza taillights.. cut the front off your car and put a integra front end on it and put it on big *** chrome rims. all that together is about 600 horsepower lol.
but yea, buy legitament parts that are proven, tial, turbonetics, koyo, calesonic, k&n, walbro, ect ect. also, with that much power and torque plan on getting stabilizers, like strut bars possibly a roll cage, sway bars, stiff suspension, all new bushings, also with a bridge port go with 3mm apex seals, alot of people say go with 2mm but 3mm is the way to go, i had them on my n/a and i got it up to 180 ish with bolt ons and just daily drove it. good luck with the build. let us all know how it comes out
but yea, buy legitament parts that are proven, tial, turbonetics, koyo, calesonic, k&n, walbro, ect ect. also, with that much power and torque plan on getting stabilizers, like strut bars possibly a roll cage, sway bars, stiff suspension, all new bushings, also with a bridge port go with 3mm apex seals, alot of people say go with 2mm but 3mm is the way to go, i had them on my n/a and i got it up to 180 ish with bolt ons and just daily drove it. good luck with the build. let us all know how it comes out
05-30-10, 01:55 PM
#35
Engine, Not Motor
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No point in going with 3MM seals unless the rotors are too worn to accept 2MM. 3MM don't seal as well, don't wear as well and aren't really stronger then 2MM. And it is really easy to screw up the rotors when machined for 3MM. Also, when the rotors are machined, the beam hardening that Mazda does to the apex seal groove is disrupted.
05-30-10, 07:41 PM
#36
Rotary
Thread Starter
No point in going with 3MM seals unless the rotors are too worn to accept 2MM. 3MM don't seal as well, don't wear as well and aren't really stronger then 2MM. And it is really easy to screw up the rotors when machined for 3MM. Also, when the rotors are machined, the beam hardening that Mazda does to the apex seal groove is disrupted.
What kind of oil do you use on your car by the way?
did you go full synthetic?
05-31-10, 11:16 AM
#37
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jeeze... thats brutal man. just tossing in my .02 cents lol. there recomended for anything over 200k being rebuilt and with 91 stock miles are 170 now. just saying ;D haha. how many miles are on your engine?
mine had 300k miles on it. and ive always been told to stay away from synthetic oil with rotary's i put royal purple in mine once and it ran fine. not incredible. but fine. 5w30 for me usually cause i live in washington and its always cold.
mine had 300k miles on it. and ive always been told to stay away from synthetic oil with rotary's i put royal purple in mine once and it ran fine. not incredible. but fine. 5w30 for me usually cause i live in washington and its always cold.
05-31-10, 01:59 PM
#38
Boost makes cars smile.
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Speaking of one's .02:
Holy **** that was fast!
*ahem*
You can spend a ****-ton on parts and go fast bits, but then have it's legs cut off by a shitty tuner.
Bo the MECHANICAL build first, then drop serious cash on a day at the dyno with a tuner that knows not only how to tune with your, specific software, but a rotary, as well.
Holy **** that was fast!
*ahem*
You can spend a ****-ton on parts and go fast bits, but then have it's legs cut off by a shitty tuner.
Bo the MECHANICAL build first, then drop serious cash on a day at the dyno with a tuner that knows not only how to tune with your, specific software, but a rotary, as well.
05-31-10, 05:51 PM
#42
Boost makes cars smile.
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I've had to fix enough tuning by some schmuck who tells people he 'knows' how to tune, to know that the difference between the two can be as far as 500 bux and almost 100hp... And a grenade.
The first thing that people REALLY screw up on is their base-map. Just because the car's running, doesn't mean it's base-map is correct.
Agreed. Sticky this post!
The first thing that people REALLY screw up on is their base-map. Just because the car's running, doesn't mean it's base-map is correct.
Agreed. Sticky this post!
05-31-10, 09:34 PM
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haha yea my car has 600 horsepower! ...... <small> i wish</small>
just make sure you get alot of opinions when it comes to tuning, dont listen to what a shop will say because most of them DONT know rx7s or rotaries at all other then the rotors rotate.
just go for quality over anything with a big build.
just make sure you get alot of opinions when it comes to tuning, dont listen to what a shop will say because most of them DONT know rx7s or rotaries at all other then the rotors rotate.
just go for quality over anything with a big build.
05-31-10, 10:29 PM
#46
Rotary
Thread Starter
haha yea my car has 600 horsepower! ...... <small> i wish</small>
just make sure you get alot of opinions when it comes to tuning, dont listen to what a shop will say because most of them DONT know rx7s or rotaries at all other then the rotors rotate.
just go for quality over anything with a big build.
just make sure you get alot of opinions when it comes to tuning, dont listen to what a shop will say because most of them DONT know rx7s or rotaries at all other then the rotors rotate.
just go for quality over anything with a big build.
But is Syntethic oil bad for the Rotary engine?
05-31-10, 10:36 PM
#47
The Big Ugly!
^ Good point the surrounding cars appear to be the typical everyday bullshit, which could make the two racing look faster. As far as getting the the 7 to be a monster use the info found here & speak with a respected rotary tuner. Time & money will be expected.
05-31-10, 10:47 PM
#48
Rotary
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05-31-10, 10:50 PM
#49
Boost makes cars smile.
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As far as running synthetics, I've heard alot of people say that it's not good for the apex seals, but I *personally* haven't noticed any problem with it.
I suppose, if you look at it, logistically, the seals were created in a time before synthetic oils and so it would make sense that they were kind of designed for conventionals...
I suppose, for the sake of longevity, you MIGHT shave 5yrs life off of the OEM seals by running synthetic, but you're talking about a 20+ year-old object.
Is 5 years REALLY going to make a difference, given the fact that you'll change them out within that time-frame?
TonyReifel said it right, though: Don't take any shop's word as the biblical truth. There are TONS of tuners out there - myself included - and most of them (UNLIKE myself) don't have the first clue of how to properly tune a 13B. Get a bunch of peoples' opinions about how your mapping should be laid out, what tuning your specific application should get, and what ACTUAL standalone/ piggyback ECU you should use.
At the end of the day/week/month/year, you'll end up being able to weed out the ******* retards from those of us who'll ACTUALLY give you good, solid and non-biased information.
NTM you'll probably know more than them, in the end.
I suppose, if you look at it, logistically, the seals were created in a time before synthetic oils and so it would make sense that they were kind of designed for conventionals...
I suppose, for the sake of longevity, you MIGHT shave 5yrs life off of the OEM seals by running synthetic, but you're talking about a 20+ year-old object.
Is 5 years REALLY going to make a difference, given the fact that you'll change them out within that time-frame?
TonyReifel said it right, though: Don't take any shop's word as the biblical truth. There are TONS of tuners out there - myself included - and most of them (UNLIKE myself) don't have the first clue of how to properly tune a 13B. Get a bunch of peoples' opinions about how your mapping should be laid out, what tuning your specific application should get, and what ACTUAL standalone/ piggyback ECU you should use.
At the end of the day/week/month/year, you'll end up being able to weed out the ******* retards from those of us who'll ACTUALLY give you good, solid and non-biased information.
NTM you'll probably know more than them, in the end.
05-31-10, 11:11 PM
#50
Rotary
Thread Starter
As far as running synthetics, I've heard alot of people say that it's not good for the apex seals, but I *personally* haven't noticed any problem with it.
I suppose, if you look at it, logistically, the seals were created in a time before synthetic oils and so it would make sense that they were kind of designed for conventionals...
I suppose, for the sake of longevity, you MIGHT shave 5yrs life off of the OEM seals by running synthetic, but you're talking about a 20+ year-old object.
Is 5 years REALLY going to make a difference, given the fact that you'll change them out within that time-frame?
TonyReifel said it right, though: Don't take any shop's word as the biblical truth. There are TONS of tuners out there - myself included - and most of them (UNLIKE myself) don't have the first clue of how to properly tune a 13B. Get a bunch of peoples' opinions about how your mapping should be laid out, what tuning your specific application should get, and what ACTUAL standalone/ piggyback ECU you should use.
At the end of the day/week/month/year, you'll end up being able to weed out the ******* retards from those of us who'll ACTUALLY give you good, solid and non-biased information.
NTM you'll probably know more than them, in the end.
I suppose, if you look at it, logistically, the seals were created in a time before synthetic oils and so it would make sense that they were kind of designed for conventionals...
I suppose, for the sake of longevity, you MIGHT shave 5yrs life off of the OEM seals by running synthetic, but you're talking about a 20+ year-old object.
Is 5 years REALLY going to make a difference, given the fact that you'll change them out within that time-frame?
TonyReifel said it right, though: Don't take any shop's word as the biblical truth. There are TONS of tuners out there - myself included - and most of them (UNLIKE myself) don't have the first clue of how to properly tune a 13B. Get a bunch of peoples' opinions about how your mapping should be laid out, what tuning your specific application should get, and what ACTUAL standalone/ piggyback ECU you should use.
At the end of the day/week/month/year, you'll end up being able to weed out the ******* retards from those of us who'll ACTUALLY give you good, solid and non-biased information.
NTM you'll probably know more than them, in the end.
But so far as for tuning, ive been thinking of BRYAN from BDC here in texas. I was also thinking of steve kahn but He is so damm hard to get a hold off you know. But at the moment im not worried about tuning, since Im just starting on the project. Maybe two months down the road then I will start looking for my tuner..