Just Like the title states.

I was going to go 3rotor but friend sold the engine before I came up with the funds.

Well I am starting to build my 91 T2 and I need some ideas and motivation ( found the video) so let me know guys


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bYhZZ...layer_embedded

Please keep the negative comments to yourself.
So once again thank you Rotary gurus...

 

The video isn't working my friend.

 

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bYhZZ...layer_embedded


try it now...

 

lots of money and time... but more specifically a large single turbo upgrade, lots of fuel, good spark, water injection, stand alone engine management system, weight reduction (maybe), good suspension, good tires, and that should be it.

 

Ok what kind of porting?
what kind of turbo or size?

and when you say more fuel? what do u mean?
walboro 255
bigger injectors?

im sorry but im just very impressed with this car.

 

You need to search on here and read up.

 

I am... but at the sametime, you guys can help me out some...

 

is that Brismos 7?

man check this out. you do need to some reading. im sure that you are but there isnt really anyone on here that is gonna tell you any different . i would suggest you get a pad and pencil and start going through the archives and use the search. i mean unless you are asking how to do it your self and you are working on a particular upgrade the basics are what hondahater said. port, injectors, turbo etc etc etc.

 

Thank you.. I appreciate it.
Well I already have a 91 T2 motor
I have a gt40r turbo

would that get me to that guys level?

 

well im kinda new to this my self. but you follow the basic rules of mechanics and more fuel/air and spark gives you more boom. its just a matter of properly managing it no?

 

Honestly, without trying to be an *******...

Go to rotary guru, talk to them about what you would like to have, and how much it will cost you.

 

true.. yeah im just asking bc I was this video and was like DAYUM...

 

http://fc3spro.com/TECH/FM2W/power.htm

good read.

 

Thank you sir...

 

If you already have the gt40r than stay with that. You'll need a good divided manifold and at least a 40mm wastegate preferably TiAl. You will need a 3" or 4" downpipe to go with it. You will need corresponding line to go to the Tial wg and I would suggest stainless so that it doesn't melt due to high temps. I would get a -4an for the oil feed and 10an for return. Also you will need the proper water lines as well being that you have a ball bearing turbo. You will need a good electronic boost controller to control your boost as well. You are going to need a wideband o2 sensor in the downpipe so that you can see what your afr are doing. You will need all the proper gauges to monitor everything while you are driving. The most important ones to me are water temp, boost, oil pressure, fuel pressure, egt, and if you want you can get an oil temp gauge. The standalone you get will depend on what you are doing. If you want strip only I'd go with microtech however if you are planning on driving it around town you can still use a microtech but they have much better ecu's for that including the haltech platinum series ecu or the power fc etc.. etc.. You will need a decent sized intercooler like 12x24x3 and at least 2.5" piping with a blow off valve. You will need a decent water injection system like coolingmist or rice racing and I'd suggest pre turbo water injection. You're going to need 850 primary injectors and 1600cc secondary injectors. I'd suggest getting some good msd or crane boxes at least two for the leading. If you want you can also switch out coils to some good msd or crane boxes but one thing is for sure, you WILL need a good ignition system with water injection. After that you are going to need a good pump. Depending on what power you go with and if you want an internal or external pump. internal pump is much easier if you are going to stick with all original rubber line and in that case I'd get a dual walbro 255 setup. Oh yeah as far as standalone make sure you get the one that your tuner knows so he won't have a problem tuning it. After you get all this it will take care of the power plant but you will start to have to worry about warn out things like bushings and other suspension things that are old now on a second gen. Take care of your suspension as well as your brakes!!! cause you will need to stop!!

I'm sure I left things out but that should be the majority of it. Be prepared to spend some dough and never forget that no matter how much calculations you do on the interweb as to the cost of different things, it's always the unforeseen costs that start adding up...

Good luck!

 

full bridge, huge turbo, water injection, e85, a motec ecu and some other ****.

 

Ahhh Thanks for that. I completely forgot to talk about block. You will need a rebuild or at least it would be very recommended! I would change out the stock seals for either ALS or Super Seals. I got my block pinned and balanced as well. The bigger the port the better for turbo spool so a half bridge is nice or a nice large streetport. Also do all the oiling mods and make sure you get the fd corner seal springs. Don't use the rotary aviation apex seal springs, I'd go with the stock mazda springs.

Oh also you will need a good aluminum radiator and good ducting to keep water temps down with that big fmic.

 

Thank you SO MUCH!! seriously
So do I keep the engine stock or go with half bridge or full bridge???

 

thank you.. Enough said brotha. If you were in texas I would of gotten you some beer lol. jkjk But I a grately appreciate the info...

 

problem is with porting you would be losing reliability and the life of the motor dies down.

i wanted a bridge port done but after reading on the WHAT COULD happen i shyd away from it. because what will happen if that bridge fell off? broke wam bam god bye motor. not only is the **** ganna be LOUD so if you got annoying *** neighbors that wont stfu then thats not what you want


theres a interesting read on porting that ill look up for you.(brb)
http://www.mazdarotary.net/porting.htm

 

Thank you so much also...

 

Mehhh a conservative half bridge will not kill reliablity what so ever but a monster bridge that cuts into the water jackets will for sure. Get a large street or a conservative half bridge and you will be fine.

edit: And I'm always down for beer I'm in lake charles so you could always drive it to me

And just so you know, this isn't from internet here say, I've been there and done that with my car, lol

 

Bridges only fall off when they are cut by people who shouldn't be building engines. It is also fairly easy to make a turbo bridgeport quiet. The turbo is already an effective muffler, and with a quality resonator and a proper dual exhaust it will be quiet.

Anyway, to the original poster, most of the stuff has already been laid out.

GT40R
Half bridge (though stock ports would work, I think you would find the lag unacceptable)
720CC/1600CC
Big fuel pump
Good standalone (Haltech, Megasquirt if you are into DIY)
Big front mount
4" downpipe, 3" mid-pipe, 2.5" or 3" duel cat-back

Making that power isn't really hard, but unless you have the hands-on advice of a knowledgeable rotary tuner, be prepared to go through an engine.

And then getting that power to the ground is going to be a bit difficult.

But please, whatever you do, don't drive like those douches in the video. Every one of them tailgating at unsafe speeds, racing on public roads, etc.

 

I ******* LOVE WHEN IM CORRECT!! i never thought about it that way mr CAKE
one of these days when im worthy ill be hitting up your inbox.. hopefully that day is soon

 

everyone here is assuming that that is some kind of 600whp monster in the video. it could easily be sub 400whp, it's just deceptive because of the way the video is short and the difference in capability between the civic and the rx7