Well guys I recently bought one and I figured some ppl could save some $ from my advice.

Buying:

1. Source all the jspec engine importers around where you live(I drove 6 hours to get mine but i live in the boonies). Call around, get prices, warranty info, how long they have been open for, if they have stock(and if there S4 or S5, what years they have, wether or not it's a longblock and if the transmission is included.

2. Once you have decided on the place you are buying from, try to find some feedback on the business if possible, to give you an idea of what to exspect.

3. Go to the business with a booster pack(or a battery with booster cables, socket set(with spark plug wrenches), a plastic bag, and a compression tester(with the check valve removed) and a small piece or a metal screwdriver.

Ask if you can do a compression test(if there is a tranny/starter bolted to the engine), if they say no move on to another business.

When you see the engine, inspect it visibly(check for a broken off oil pressure sending unit, ). Check the dipstick(see how filthy the oil is). Broken off stuff(intercoolers aren't usually in the best shape), also check the turbo's play etc. Later on you might be able to haggle with the seller and get a lower price stuff that is worn/broken.

Starter Compression Test: The oil cooler lines are usaully cut, put the plastic bag over them so when the engine is turning over it doesn't make a mess. Get out your compression gauge and take out a leading plug, put the tester in. Wire up your booster pack or booster cables as shown in the pic below(Put the negative on the top starter bolt as a ground). Once that is done use a screwdriver to connect point A and point B to get the starter to turn over. Remember to hold the throttle plates open for best results. You should see even bounces, of at least 70psi(remember these are cold engines). Repeat for the other rotor.



No Starter Compression test (doesn't hurt to do this too if you have done test #1): Take out both leading plugs(bottom ones). Take a socket (19mm) and a ratchet and start turning over the engine(clockwise), once you hear the first puff you should hear another one 1/2 a turn from the previous. They should be all even and a total of 6. Put everything back together.

If they have multiple engines try and find the best one. Try to get your series of engine(S4=mechanical omp, S5=electrical) as it will save you a lot of work later on.

If there are things wrong with the engine(bad shaft play in the turbo, dented up intercooler try to get them to lower the price).

When I did this, the business did NOT want me to do a test on them, they said "All engines are tested in Japan!". I replied with a "Oh it's ok it'll only take a few moments and i have everything here". The first engine i tried had been completely blown (no compression at all either rotor). This is the motor they first pointed me to, the only other one they had turned out to be very healthy and is running in my car right now(I plan on rebuilding it when i can afford it).

If you make a purchase, get a manager to write you up something clearly stating the warranty.

Lift that heavy sucker into your parts hauler

If you are getting the engine shipped, get the company to do the tests for you and fax your them with warranty imformation if possible. Make sure there is insurance on it too.
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Preping for install(not complete but just adding some tips to a usual engine install):


Strip down the block. Inspect the flywheel/clutch replace if needed or machine the flywheel. Take off the oil pan and install a new gasket(or jus RTV it). You can do the same with the water pump and front cover(do the oil thermal pellet mod too while your at it). If replacing a TII engine use the best parts between the 2.

I used my turbo manifold, clutch/flywheel, lim/uim(uim has brake booster nipple plus my blockoff plates were on my aspec one already, jspec throttlebody(tb modded). Your low oil level sensor you must change to a a-spec one as the connection was different(on mine anyways). Make sure you torque everything. Take your time, clean up the block as much as you can(i spent a few hours and alot of degreaser).

Install using Scathcarts writeup found here:
https://www.rx7club.com/forum/showth...emoval+writeup

Good luck, you'll need it. As everyone says, they ARE a gamble but following my writeup gives you better odds.

Hope to see this in the archives, later guys. Feel free to add any advice, and don't hack on my spelling(esp at this time of the night).

Oh, I'd like to thank Sean(Scathcart for telling me what to hook the starter up to when i went to do the compression test, and Andrew for going out in -25'C cold to take a pic of a starter so i could lable it )

 

Also, your Jspec fuel rail is reversed, either use a A-Spec one or hook up your lines in a reversed order.

Only sensors that were different for me was the oil level sending unit, has anyone else had this problem?

 

How is the fuel rail reversed?? It looks normal to me.

BTW My S5 Jspec I bought for a core block had a SOL front rotor and front plate. The best way is to take the exhaust manifold off and shine a light into the engine to see what the rotor and housing actually look like inside.

I think Kevin (Rotary Resurrection) will be posting pics of what it looks like.

 

J-spec fuel rails feed the secondary rail first and then the primary(FPR is on the primary).

So if your using the jspec rail just have the return line going to the primary rail and the incoming fuel line on the secondary rail.

I looked into the exhaust ports once once i got the engine home. It's just it's alot more work removing the twin scroll vac line, coolant/oil lines, 4 manifold bolts, esp when inspecting alot of engines.

I just saw the pics of yours. Ouch. I guess I got lucky with mine cause inside mine was pretty spotless except a little bit of carbon buildup on the rotor face.

 

good info
more pics too
the FSM is not really that clear

 

his motor was a j-spec CORE motor, they are much cheaper.

 

What other pics can i add? Only thing you should need is the starter diagram. I think you can find the spark plugs without pics

It isn't a engine install writeup...

Any chance on a archive?