How To: Build a lower arm bar for under $15
12-12-06, 03:56 PM
#77
Lives on the Forum
Thread Starter
I'll build them...
It'll cost you one hundred billion dollars! Muahahahahaha!
Seriously though, I don't have the facilities to do this now, besides it's not hard for you to do yourself.
An aluminum square tube would probably work just fine, I admit that the aluminum bar wasn't the best idea, way too flexy, but it shows that there are deflections there worth bracing against. The steel has held up just fine, and is VERY rigid, and will support the bearing loads better as well. The weight penalty is minimal and it's very low in the car, so there's no real benefit with going with aluminum, but it'll come at the cost of rigidity.
You could quite easily make a couple brackets to weld to the stock bushing clamp, but I don't have a welder and couldn't afford to be without the car while the welders did the work on it, so that wasn't an option. But if you have access to a welder or can have the suspension apart while you get it welded by someone else, then by all means do it that way, it'll be stiffer.
It'll cost you one hundred billion dollars! Muahahahahaha!
Seriously though, I don't have the facilities to do this now, besides it's not hard for you to do yourself.
An aluminum square tube would probably work just fine, I admit that the aluminum bar wasn't the best idea, way too flexy, but it shows that there are deflections there worth bracing against. The steel has held up just fine, and is VERY rigid, and will support the bearing loads better as well. The weight penalty is minimal and it's very low in the car, so there's no real benefit with going with aluminum, but it'll come at the cost of rigidity.
You could quite easily make a couple brackets to weld to the stock bushing clamp, but I don't have a welder and couldn't afford to be without the car while the welders did the work on it, so that wasn't an option. But if you have access to a welder or can have the suspension apart while you get it welded by someone else, then by all means do it that way, it'll be stiffer.
02-04-07, 01:06 AM
#79
Rotary Enthusiast
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Richmond, Virginia
Posts: 954
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Obviously, mazdaspeed FTW when $$$ is not a problem...
but on a budget, the DIY lower arm bar or himni racing lower arm bar are the best options.
I'm skeptical as to which is more significant to increasing the handling... the lower arm bar with two pivot joints (DIY, cusco, or mazdaspeed), or one that has no pivot points? No pivot points -> himni racing bar
but on a budget, the DIY lower arm bar or himni racing lower arm bar are the best options.
I'm skeptical as to which is more significant to increasing the handling... the lower arm bar with two pivot joints (DIY, cusco, or mazdaspeed), or one that has no pivot points? No pivot points -> himni racing bar
02-14-07, 06:50 PM
#80
FD pro licensed driver
iTrader: (3)
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Renton/Bellevue/Seattle WA
Posts: 2,897
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes
on
2 Posts
Hello! I just finished making and installing this and first I need to say thank you very much for your contribution to the rx7 community.
It fits perfectly, but I was wondering .... if what I'm feeling with my car should be happening.
I have a couple corners around my place (in the middle of no where) that are quite fun to go about 80 around (instead of 35). Anywas before installing this I would grip around, on rails, feeling the DTSS working and what not. Now my tires scream and my rear end comes out and I Start drifting ... . now ... I was used to this and it scared the crap out of me .... but .. my question is ... is that normal?
Why would a front lower arm bar make my ear end (although it was smooth and felt nice) pop out and feel like dtss wasnt doing its job.
Thanks, let me know.
It fits perfectly, but I was wondering .... if what I'm feeling with my car should be happening.
I have a couple corners around my place (in the middle of no where) that are quite fun to go about 80 around (instead of 35). Anywas before installing this I would grip around, on rails, feeling the DTSS working and what not. Now my tires scream and my rear end comes out and I Start drifting ... . now ... I was used to this and it scared the crap out of me .... but .. my question is ... is that normal?
Why would a front lower arm bar make my ear end (although it was smooth and felt nice) pop out and feel like dtss wasnt doing its job.
Thanks, let me know.
02-14-07, 07:33 PM
#82
FD pro licensed driver
iTrader: (3)
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Renton/Bellevue/Seattle WA
Posts: 2,897
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes
on
2 Posts
Originally Posted by Ishibubu
I'm sorry I have read through this but what exactly does it do? Stop body contorsion/ warping?
02-14-07, 08:34 PM
#83
Lives on the Forum
Thread Starter
Your welcome.
Mine still understeers. I've heard of others reporting that different stiffening bars make that end of the car grippier or less grippy, and it does make sense that it can affect it, since there's motion going on in the body, and you're stiffening the 5th spring and are changing the dynamic alignment of the car, so it'll change the grip characteristics.
Mine still understeers. I've heard of others reporting that different stiffening bars make that end of the car grippier or less grippy, and it does make sense that it can affect it, since there's motion going on in the body, and you're stiffening the 5th spring and are changing the dynamic alignment of the car, so it'll change the grip characteristics.
01-16-08, 08:18 AM
#84
Senior Member
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: May 2006
Location: southern indiana
Posts: 363
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
if your car is too stiff it wont hug turns as well the car may chatter or break loose easyr on the limit bcs the the front and rear are working closer together (less flex and twisting) so the front and rear effect each other more and doesnt allow for as much of a delay in reaction from front to rear.for a bumpy track with high traction you would want more flex. i was just tryn to point out stiffer is not always better. dont forget preload on your strut braces and other braces can be used to fine tune the handling of your car.
01-16-08, 11:33 AM
#85
Lives on the Forum
Thread Starter
You're confusing suspension stiffness and chassis stiffness. I agree 100% that stiffer isn't necessarily better, in the suspension. Stiffer is ALWAYS better in the chassis though, as it gives a more stable platform for the suspension to work with, and helps minimise the effect of the undamped "5th spring", the chassis.
01-18-08, 11:09 AM
#89
Lives on the Forum
Thread Starter
Nearly all welding/machine shops will cut you small pieces of metal for a small fee. I'd try them first, it's probably cheaper than going to a hardware store anyway.
01-19-08, 08:07 PM
#91
Lives on the Forum
Thread Starter
I'd suggest that you all buy a little extra 2" square tubing and make yourselves a brake master cylinder brace at the same time. It makes for a much stiffer pedal.
https://www.rx7club.com/2nd-generation-specific-1986-1992-17/how-diy-brake-master-cylinder-brace-718744/
https://www.rx7club.com/2nd-generation-specific-1986-1992-17/how-diy-brake-master-cylinder-brace-718744/
12-20-08, 01:17 AM
#98
Banned. I got OWNED!!!
Seeing as how this thread inspired mine, it's been bumped, and not many of you venture into the fab section, here's my creation
https://www.rx7club.com/fabrication-250/fc-lower-arm-bar-776766/
https://www.rx7club.com/fabrication-250/fc-lower-arm-bar-776766/
10-19-09, 12:10 AM
#99
I'd like to bump this thread since I just made one and have a few suggestions:
First of all the 3/8" bolts were way too long for me for some reason, maybe because the washers weren't thick enough. You can take a good inch off that bolt.
Secondly, you will be able to find the 1" steel square tubing at Home Depot or Lowes but do not buy it from there as they do not have the 1.5" tubing you need. Google "steels, city, state" or "metal, city, state" and find a welding/steel place close to you. They charge less than half what the big stores charge. The hardware you can get at your local Ace Hardware or Home Depot/Lowes.
Driving suggestions: Mine were similar to Tweakgames and the rear end comes around much easier. The difference is easily noticeable and fixed my understeer problem completely. This is only judged on limited seat time as I only had exit ramps to test drive on instead of a full course.
Lastly, its a good idea to make the master cylinder brace at the same time.
Here are pics of mine, no baller *** paint for me, lol.
<a href="http://viewmorepics.myspace.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=viewImage&friendID=39313093&a lbumID=2017873&imageID=63388545"><img src="http://hotlink.myspacecdn.com/images02/59/54aa7780f8d445b682df0cf01a04dcfa/m.jpg" alt="Black91n/a DIY lower arm brace" /></a>
First of all the 3/8" bolts were way too long for me for some reason, maybe because the washers weren't thick enough. You can take a good inch off that bolt.
Secondly, you will be able to find the 1" steel square tubing at Home Depot or Lowes but do not buy it from there as they do not have the 1.5" tubing you need. Google "steels, city, state" or "metal, city, state" and find a welding/steel place close to you. They charge less than half what the big stores charge. The hardware you can get at your local Ace Hardware or Home Depot/Lowes.
Driving suggestions: Mine were similar to Tweakgames and the rear end comes around much easier. The difference is easily noticeable and fixed my understeer problem completely. This is only judged on limited seat time as I only had exit ramps to test drive on instead of a full course.
Lastly, its a good idea to make the master cylinder brace at the same time.
Here are pics of mine, no baller *** paint for me, lol.
<a href="http://viewmorepics.myspace.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=viewImage&friendID=39313093&a lbumID=2017873&imageID=63388545"><img src="http://hotlink.myspacecdn.com/images02/59/54aa7780f8d445b682df0cf01a04dcfa/m.jpg" alt="Black91n/a DIY lower arm brace" /></a>
10-19-09, 12:25 AM
#100
Ok so i seen this a while back and now refreshed my memory. Question- On a convertible theres the brace that runs along back there. what is that for? (on most verts there rusted out). although mines crisp clean and all newly painted and shiny if i took it off and made a brace what would be the reaction of taking it off anyone know????????