I've been reading the forums like crazy but havnt found any solutions.. maybe someone can point me to a proper thread..

I just bought this series 5 (1990) GTU and initially it wasnt starting. I checked compression and it both rotors indicate around 80-90 psi while cranking. Changed the spark plugs and the ceramic on the rear rotor's leading (lower) spark plug was cracked. Replaced all sparkplugs and then tried to deflood it via removing EGI and cranking for a while and also added ATF. It worked and the car started but sputtered and died after a while. I suspected the CAts to be clogged and unbolted the exhaust right before the precat. The car now starts fine when cold and doesnt die, though the idle is very crappy and consistently bounces from 1300RPM-1600RPM. (keeps going vroom vroom vroom vroom...)

So now onto my questions

1) How do i know if the precat and the main cat are blocked? What symptoms does a car exhibit when these two need to be replaced?

2) I measured the resistance betweek points A-B and E-D and this is what I got:
A-B Idle: 1.042 K ohms
A-B WOT: 4.430 K ohms
E-D Idle: 1.200 K ohms
E-D WOT: 4.500 K ohms

I tried adjusting, but it doesnt really change the resistance much and it simply wont go much lower than it is. And as far as I understand, the resistance for both is changed by one screw/spring thingy, right?

3) Hot Start: This car starts fine when the cooland temp is cold, and simply wont start when the car is warmed up. I've seen threads for Series 4 cars which modify/add a switch from pin 3b...but nothing for series 5 cars. Anyone have a clue on what to do? or how to fix this problem?

4) When this car is started cold, the RPMS drop from around 3k down to 1500 and it idles there for a while and it keeps jumping from 1300-1600 rpms. When I tried to drive it, it stalls and wont start. I just put it in Reverse and barely let of the clutch, it sputtered and died. Now it wont start, I assume its floodded.

Any help would be greatly appreciated. I dont know much about rotory engines but I have been reading and reading..

Thanks in advance.

-js

 

For the S5, you could subsitute that pin with the wire 1C. Follow Hailer's instruction the same way

S5 hot start problem starter pin 3b flood warm

 

thanks slpin, any idea on how to pull this pin out of the connector? I tried yesterday but failed and didnt want to break anything...

 

look at the front of the clip
u jam **** in the small hole and pull

 

can you confirm if its pin 1c and not 1k?

the manual states:

1C is connected to the iginition switch and the voltage is 12v when starting/cranking, 0v otherwise..

1K is connected to the fuel pump resistor relay, which is 12v when cranking and 90 seconds after cranking. 0v otherwise

Thanks again!

-js

 

I tried disconnecting both, 1c, 1k. and both at the same time. No luck.

Anything else I could try to fix this hot start issue?

 

1C is the correct wire. if you would of read hailer's post carefully, you would understand

 

Well this is just my experience, S5 engines are suppose to have 95-100 psi arent they? and as for the vroom vroom vroom, last time that happened to me 1. car was having problems with the intake (lose bolts, screw connection or lines, small piping ) or vacuum lines might be bad check them. 2. the car when sit on me so i ended up replacing the engine.

Then again my engine was an S4 GXL, I hope this helped answer some of your questions

 

OOps when i say intake i mean from the TB to the intake anything that is lose or not connected well, might give you starting problems.