I tried the hose to the pressure sensor and another line and the vacumn is so low that it would take 2 hours to suck down a gallon of water so I figured I wasnt using the right one.

so, which hose do I need to use to get that water flowing?
thanks

Mike

 

What is this H2O trick you speak of?

 

That's funny, I used that line once (never again), and she sucked a gallon of water in like 45 seconds...I heard somewhere that that particular port only goes to the front rotor though...This "water trick" thing is a crock, IMO... I did it a couple of months before the rebuild, and it didn't appear to have done much of anything as far as baked on carbon removal, plus I didn't like seeing my baby trying to shake herself out of the engine mounts...

 

well it wasnt drinking as much as yours. It didnt smoke much either since it wasnt getting much water I guess.

after I quit the car idled pretty good once it settled down.

again, the hose wasnt really sucking in enough water to do much good. surely there is a better line?

Mike

 

i read on the forum a while back that the H20 trick led to the much improved carb cleaner trick. Try that instead. ^_^

 

I try to use a vac line thats close to the center, so both rotors get water.

 

I would like to find the right hose first before I try stronger stuff.

 

I recommend MMO..

 

h2o works. . . doing it once isnt gonna get everything off. if youre gonna do it. . . do it like every oil change or something. . . dont worry about using water. . . it leaves less deposits than mmo or any other cleaner for that matter. . . water works.

how about this. . . use the nipple on the back side of the intercooler. its a little big so you might wanna dip the hose in the water and take it out. . . over and over again. you KNOW thats gonna work.

wait. . . NA. . . doodoo. just find something down the intake tubing somewhere. its a good idea to do it further away anyways. . . that way it wont have too much trouble atomizing.

i remeber a port on the intake tube before the TB. ive used it for spraying starting fluid in a car to see if it would start at all (bad fuel pump). if you could get to that. . . things would be great. . . OR, you could take the TB elbow off, find a flat place on it. drill a hole in it and put a barbed fitting in there. that plastic is thick enough to hold it (pipe thread) and youll have it for future use. . . thats not a bad idea if you ask me. . . just hide it underneath or something. . . put a cap on it after youre done.

paul

 

I will look for a port on the intake tube before the TB. seems like I have seen a hose on there somewhere that I could use to suck in the water.

that will not be a problem sucking water into TB and then into rest of motor?

Mike

all these peopl that have done it and I am getting little response. no offense to the guys that answered but I know lots of people did it along with the CC too. I am just going with the easy water. then I am going to add some Sea Foam to my gas tank next fill up. I have MMO in the current tank

 

Do you have a site with more deatils on thsi water thing and what it's supposed to accomplish? Spraying water on my rotors scares me.

 

spraying waters on our rotors is actually a good thing its like doing a steam clean inside the engine i prefer the ATF trick due to the fact that water takes out grease n stuff like that which actually helps everything spin freely if you remove the grease it will give you a scrap on metal to metal thing which not might end up to well might be wrong but thats just me 02
TwEaK

 

a couple of weeks ago, i drove through flooded waters and my car sputtered and gurgled for a while before it stopped running. Couldn't get it to re-start. Finally push started it. I guess that was my water trick. ^_^

 

would somebody please say what hose they used ? I am about to say forget it. Keep getting opinion post but not the info I need.

what hose 90 GXL?

 

it's probably easier to take a look at the UIM and just pull a hose and try it. Maybe you can try two different ones that will route to each seperate rotor. There's not really an EXACT way you have to do it. Just try it out.

 

^^ Exactly. Primarily it would be best to get water onto both rotors. To do this you either have to have the engineering design of the manifodls memorized, have a spare manifold set to look at for reference, or just guess at what vac lines to use. The honest truth is that vac lines run everywhere on these manifolds. Some are fuel bleeds that don't need vac, some are ports that go before the TB plates, some only goto the rear rotor, some only goto the front rotor... you see what I'm getting at here?

Asking which vac line is a bad question, just because even if we coud tell you exactly which one... theres no decent way to describe which one it is. The best bet is just to take off a vac line that goes *to* the manifold, and put the other end in a gallon of distilled water. If you use a vac line nipple thats on either end of the mainfold, you're probably only feeding one rotor, in which case, just grab another vac line from the opposite end, and duck it in water too.



That said, see atteatched

 

EEEEkk, what kind of information is going on in this thread????

Okay on a 89-92 non turbo to hit both, rotors, but with only one water feed, you need to connect your hose to the bottom vac connection on the fire wall side, between the throttle body and the dynamic chamber.

There are three vac connections there. You must use the bottom one. The one that has a dog leg coming off of the dynamic chamber.

This (BTW) is the same small lead that feeds from the bottom of the purge valve and goes to throttle body to just behind the primary throttle body plate.

Now this is for a water feed only... do not run chemicals through that line, as the line feeds through the dynamic/upper intake, and then the black plastic/bakelite spacer to the throttle body, just behind the primary plates.

Now your other option (if the above is beyond your mechanical ability to get too) is to use one of the large tubes coming off of the bottom of the snorkle, and hook a small vac line size tube to an adapter and use one of those. But the vac won't be quite as strong there. I generally perfer this though, as it will hit all the intake tracts as well, instead of just the primaires.

 

yeah ...

use whatever line that injects oil+fuel vapors back into the intake via the purge valve ...

on s5, I don't know, so what Mark says ...

on s4 NA, bottom one firewall side.
see http://www.geocities.com/huguesdc1/faqcompression.html
at the bottom for S4 only NA.

I don't know what the effects are on the cat converter and O2 sensor ... I have tried a few times with no ill effects ... it's fun.

Hugues -