Piston_Eater

alright so ive done some shopping around i know how much its gonna cost for me to get my fc going good. money is no longer an restriant on me so im free to have fun with my car

i was looking throu the superstreet buyers guide (i know not much fc wise but still gave me some ideas)

here is the list

HKS-exhaust, downpipe, intake, ignition, and manifold
Blitz-850cc primary, 1600cc secondary
Holly-fuel pump
GReddy-Turbo, blowoff valve, intercooler kit, sparksplugs, piggyback ecu
Racingbeat-rebuild kit, light weight rotors, street port

all this will be supposerted by a nukabe clutch, flywheel, drive shaft and lsd

total cost for the parts i just listed is around 9000$ just as a rough estimate for how much work is going into this car

vipers

iTrader: (8)

turbo size?

joeberentsen

hrse power estimete 4 u!!!!!!!!!!

320 @ wheels

joeberentsen

btw I used gran turismo 4 to come up with that number

Piston_Eater

npot sure on the size

MAZ RX-7 TURBO 1987-88 TDO6SH-20G cast manif. & Type R W/G 11540010

all the info i get

BklynRX7

You also have to figure out how much boost your gonna be running theres a big power difference between 7.5psi and 12-14psi.

Sideways7

iTrader: (7)

LOL

vipers

iTrader: (8)

w/ just a piggyback (not a full stand-alone) id estimate in the high 300's (w/ proper tuning!)
probubly around 14-16psi

one question though....... w/ all that $$$ , why not go full stand-alone, you have so much more options w/ a stand alone..... ditch the expensive rotors and get a stand alone...

iceblue

[QUOTE=Piston_Eater]
HKS-exhaust, downpipe, intake, ignition, and manifold

--

Blitz-850cc primary, 1600cc secondary

--over kill not needed and could cause dumping in low rpm. 550cc 1300cc would be fine

Holly-fuel pump

--why holly?

GReddy-Turbo, blowoff valve, intercooler kit, sparksplugs, piggyback ecu

--this realy doesent tell me anything besides your skimping on the most importaint part

Racingbeat-rebuild kit, light weight rotors, street port

--why? RB rebuild is just OEM kits. The rotors is prolly over kill considering RB charges a arm and 3 legs for them.

all this will be supposerted by a nukabe clutch, flywheel, drive shaft and lsd

--Why spend all this money when the stock TII setup will hold it just fine with a clutch

total cost for the parts i just listed is around 9000$ just as a rough estimate for how much work is going into this car

--I puting 9k in mine and will be puting down around 500 at wheels with a fully custom car RHD wide bodyd roll cage and a 3k paint job but im doing the work. So you are obviously spending needless money.

Piston_Eater

alright so maybe i went at this the wrong way back to the drawing bored

tjeter

with 9k i would **** my pants, i would go crazy.. if i were you if you were completely stock i'd get...

All rough estimates

Rtek 1.7 $130
720cc injectors for primary - $140
1300cc for secondary - $330
RB turboback - $800
BNR Stage 3 turbo- $800
Any BOV - around $180-200
FMIC kit - $1000
SAFC 2- $300
ACT clutch- $360
ACT streetlite flywheel- $260
Gauges- $500 (boost, A/F, EGT, Temp)
Walbro Fuel pump- $110
Intake - $150
Boost Controller- $300 if you want electronic, if you want manual alot cheaper
BRAKES: ( you don't want all that power without being able to slow down)
Rotors- $350+
Pads- $120
Brake Lines- $120

I'm not sure how much a real nice rebuild and street port goes for but you can figure that in there for yourself but right now you're at $4810 If i added correctly.
Oh yeah, you'll be hitting HIGH 300's thats rwhp.. even more if you crank the boost up but you have stated how high boost levels you'll be running

iceblue

^ You obviously have no idea what you are doing so plz don’t post a list of parts for the man and him have a setup that is certain doom before it started.

Your parts compilation will result in nothing but a **** running motor that will blow in days.

tjeter

why would it blow in a few days?

iceblue

horble EMS choice that will be super edgy. And fall around the same price range as a stand alone. A turbo that size should be ran on a stand alone. Cheaper rotors that are drilled and such tend to crack.

iceblue

This would be alot betor choice.

720cc injectors for primary - $90
1300cc for secondary - $200
RB turboback - $800
BNR Stage 3 turbo- $800 Or Garret GT35R would be my choice
HKS cast mani - $300ish or SS 800ish
HKS 60mm WG be my choice - $800
A good BOV greddy R or RS for exsample $200-350
FMIC kit - $1700
Full stand alone - $500 to 1000
ACT clutch- $360
ACT streetlite flywheel- $260
RAD - $250 to 500
Gauges- $600 (boost, A/F, EGT, Temp) but the EMS will give you most these readings
Walbro Fuel pump- $110
Intake - $75
Boost Controller- $400 go wtih a AVC-R
BRAKES: ( TII brake system should be fine
Brake Lines- $120

robtechfabrications

[QUOTE=iceblue]i want RHD!! i envy you

iceblue

Dont envy me envy my girl friend its her car.

robtechfabrications

i'll wear a wig

badass project, my buddy used to have a RHD civic and its such a mindfawk for people when ur driving on the right, so many people look so confused, its great!

Sideways7

iTrader: (7)

If you really want more clamping force on the clutch upgrade the PP. Mazdatrix has a street/strip one, alhtough its 340. If you can get in the mazda motorsports driver development program, or whatever its called, you can get the MFR (Mazda Factory Racing) one for not too much.

Sideways7

iTrader: (7)

My friend almost bought a RHD Charger last year. Came from Australia where you have to have them RHD by law.

robtechfabrications

thats badass