What are all the gauges you're running?

 

well, there is an airflow restriction without the port. i think that with the stock setup of the air/fuel, its not getting the correct amount of air to the engine. the car always runs rich no matter what the timing is set at resulting in lack of horsepower at high end.

 

Also in the video, that is not an fd alternator. Just to point that out.

 

What does the timing have to do with the car running rich?

 

the ports of the intake manifold are generally smaller than the ports on the block to help prevent reversion.

how do you know how rich the motor is? do you have a wideband?

the stock intake manifold is NOT a restriction. your custom shoebox thing almost certainly is.

 

is it a 91? the tail lights (squared off and not round) are from an 86-88 but I could be wrong since its been awhile.

 

My FC was pretty much stock, minus the gutted cats and cone filter... And i have the dyno sheet, just tell me how to upload it or check out the myspace page (already there). It was Dyno'd at Proven Power in Temple Terrace. I did 2 pulls, at the end of the 2nd pull the overflow tube on the radiator came off and sprayed water everywhere.

The 1st run was 138.23 Max power and 122.94 Max torque
2nd run was 136.81 max power and 121.96 max torque

Website is ProvenPowerTampa.com

The Dyno was a Dynojet Winper 7

On a side note tho..... why the hell would i lie on a forum about having a slow car? It ran low 17's with a shitty 60 and high 16's with a still shitty launch. The car is what it is... Stock, and 22 years old.

 

Hahaha, wow. Ricer math+idiot mods=slow car.

You just advanced the timing and expected to make power? Really?

 

+1 haha, at least they tried i guess quite guessingly...

 

the Red Seats n cone got to count for atleast 30 hp right?

 

look guys, i dont need the critisism. i was just looking for some answers and maybe a little help. i know it is running rich because the exhaust smells potent. i did what was suggested and replaced the intake with the stock s4. we put the safc II on and the car runs great now since we could lean out the fuel a bit. i am guessing that if we dynoed it now with the couple of mods we did after the video was made, that it would be pushing around 305 horsepower.................just kidding! i would guess about 160-175 max. does the alternator remounting do anything for the car? and also, what about an aftermarket gearbelt/pulley kit, does that help as well? give me some tips guys, apparently i am a little rusty at this more than i thought. thanks for the help and suggestions.

 

Okay...first of all, stop guessing your own HP, you're only disappointing yourself. You're probably at 135whp or so right now. No more guessing...and if you do have to for some reason, guess low.

Second, GET A WIDEBAND. Leaning out fuel without knowing where you're at is a great way to **** **** up. Borrow a timing light and set the timing to stock.

Lastly, READ. You have 73 posts asking questions that have been answered one bajillion times on the forum already...a little searching would save you the embarrassment of asking easy questions and getting ripped on

The alternator remounting and pulley systems won't gain you any HP...just make the front of the engine better designed, easier to work on, and more room up top. Get the gauges you need, a good exhaust and a good tune. Then worry about the intake manifold.

 

ok, now for the tiiming. i did a rebuild on the engine. how do you set the timing after the engine has been ripped apart and nothing marked? i heard you can set the timing by lining up the apex seals in the plug holes. every time i try to set the timing by the notches on the pulley, the car runs like ****.

 

you guesstimated 225HP from an n/a? hah!

no offense but most people have no clue how much it takes to break 200 WHP from an n/a.. you're talking peripheral/bridgeporting, standalone, fuel upgrades and intake/exhaust tuning.

are the ports wired open or removed? if not they should be. next get an AFR gauge to see what the air fuel mixture really is doing. the dyno could have been improperly setup but if there was other 7's there doing pulls and getting accurate figures i would doubt it was.

 

i have a 88 gxl with a street ported motor by ernst at rx7world and at the dyno day a couple months ago my car had 151 rwhp. i got street port, removed aux port actuators, no emmisions and full racingbeat road race exhaust. and i still get 19-20 mpg with no tune. i tied an s5 for second place in the n/a battle but he had more torque then me so he got second. but my s4 tied an s5 for hp. i was pround of that. and its reliable. just posting a different set up and some numbers here thats all....

 

n/a's don't really need tuning unless you are trying to squeeze more mileage out of it and even then it doesn't mean you can. a weak fuel pump, dirty fuel filter or dirty injectors can already be leaning out some cars so they get better gas mileage than original, in some cases replacing all the fuel system components and rewiring can cause poorer mileage since the engine is worn and the fuel system is new.

the AFM meters how much air the engine is getting and compensates, which is why T2's can just mod and go until the fuel system starts to starve. the system is basically self compensating so a streetport and intake and exhaust on an n/a doesn't require tuning unless there is a problem or the fuel system is overdoing it.

 

151 rwhp out of a streetported motor is pretty bad. You should be making more than that on stock ports with a header.

Why would you remove the aux port actuators?

 

Stock ports with header usually dynos slightly behind a stock manifold, until the ports are opened up there's been good evidence of this happening. It's nothing major though, but worth noting. However, the header plays a bigger role in changing the power curve, which has a considerably better benefit.

 

Guys, the OP is asking questions and this thread is just getting derailed...

Did you check the procedure in the online FSM? I don't know it off the top of my head.

http://www.rx7city.com/88manual.htm