vert it go

iTrader: (2)

its an 88 vert and for some reason my horn is not working. i have the horns from my t2 and i tried them out lastnight but nothing. is there something else i should look for?

Chuck

iTrader: (2)

...there's a fix for this that's been discussed here before. It might even be in the FAQ's. You have to remove the CPU, drivers side interior. The contacts on the board become fouled and corroded, or the solder joints let go. I had this problem and just cleaned the contact pins with spray contact cleaner. Others have actually desoldered and resoldered the contact pins. Search the forum and you should find out the details.

CyberPitz

Yeah, that's probably the same problem I'm having..but I just can't be assed to go get it fixed.

vert it go

iTrader: (2)

i searched i have been searching for about an hour now and everythig says the same thing about changing the horn checking the wires, where is this box you talk about

iSP33D-for-J3SUS

My solder joints were bad, so I just bypassed the CPU entirely. It's not like the horn needs to run through the CPU anyway. The guys that designed the FC... well.... God Bless them is all I can say. :-P

Cheers,
Cody

CyberPitz

Hmmm, how abouts did you do that?

vert it go

iTrader: (2)

i was going to ask the same thing! how can i run it right to the horn i was thinking about just getting an air horn type thing and just install a button somewhere

Chuck

iTrader: (2)

The description of the fix I was referring to is found in the 2nd Gen Archives. "Horn relay Fix"

vert it go

iTrader: (2)

yeah i found the relay fix i was wondering if the box/relay thing in my t2 will work in my vert. my horn and everything still works in my t2

HAILERS

Horns are a walk in the park.

You push the horn button. That puts a ground on a wire coming out of the steering wheel assy that goes to the CPU.

That wire applys that gnd to a Relay, which in turn pulls in and pulls a set of contacts together. One contact is hot and the other goes to the horns. Beeeeeep. Hoooonnnnk.

So heres the deal. Get the FSM wiring diagram out. Find the HORN wiring. Find the color of the wire leaving the horn switch. Find that wires color on the CPU.

Get a piece of wire and ground one end. Then backprobe that wire you just found going to the CPU and if the key is to ON, the horn should go honk, honk.

No honk? Find the color of the wire that leaves the CPU going to the horn. Apply 12vdc to that wire. Horn will honk if it's connected up.

Horn still did not honk? There's a problem with the CPU. Either a cold solder joint or bad relay.

Wiring diagrams can be found somewhere in the following links :

https://www.rx7club.com/forum/showth...ght=photobucket

http://www.wankel.net/~krwright/fil.../parts_manuals/

http://wombat.sevarg.net/RX7/RX-7_Training_Manuals/

http://www.cochran-racing.com/FSM/index.html

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

87 t-66

iTrader: (133)

i dont know what this place would do without hailers

HAILERS

Shamed me into scanning a diagram

beefhole

iTrader: (29)

Where would I buy some spray contact cleaner? Mine did the same thing, so I pulled my CPU out and looked at everything, then I put it back and everything (looked clean) worked for about a day. Then the next day the horn was back to not working.

Chuck

iTrader: (2)

Comes in a small spray can like carb cleaner. Buy it at your local Radio Shack.

vert it go

iTrader: (2)

thanks for the info guys i am going to work on my horn this weekend! as for the spray i picked it up at a local walmart!