Home-built bumper grille ducts
#53
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You're getting the right idea by trial and error... well sorta. lol
You want to fully impregnate the mat and have it "wet" all the way through. Applying resin to the surface before laying the fabric and then pressing the resin through the material is one way of accomplishing that but you don't have enough resin if you're not getting the surface wet as well. You might want to make a prepreg box lined with a trash bag so you can lay the mat in a bath of resin and get it wetted before laying it up on the bumper. Just be sure you use a little less hardener in that mix so it doesn't gel too fast on ya and become waste.
You want to fully impregnate the mat and have it "wet" all the way through. Applying resin to the surface before laying the fabric and then pressing the resin through the material is one way of accomplishing that but you don't have enough resin if you're not getting the surface wet as well. You might want to make a prepreg box lined with a trash bag so you can lay the mat in a bath of resin and get it wetted before laying it up on the bumper. Just be sure you use a little less hardener in that mix so it doesn't gel too fast on ya and become waste.
#54
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Im begining a project to see how the cardboard will hold up has a mold to make a front body kit for my 87 colt turbo:P if it turns out good itll have a fairly nice lookin evo 3 front
#55
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Go for it! It is a bigger project than it seems at first but definately fun.
Here are my latest pics showing the inside of the radiator opening.
Here are my latest pics showing the inside of the radiator opening.
#59
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Honestly, the response and interest level here has made me wonder if I could actually produce an entire front bumper cover from fiberglass, in the shape of my prototype here. It wouldn't be too hard to make a bunch of them, once I had a mold made. Making the mold would take some time but laying up a few layers of glass into it (to make the production bumper covers) would be quick.
If I weren't going off to college this Fall I would probably try a production run of 10 or so at $100ish ea. if people wanted them. It would take about $45 in materials and 4 hours of work to make one if I had a mold.
If I weren't going off to college this Fall I would probably try a production run of 10 or so at $100ish ea. if people wanted them. It would take about $45 in materials and 4 hours of work to make one if I had a mold.
#62
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damn that looks sweeeett dude make some id love to buy one you could make some $$ off those you need to spray it so we can shee the true shape its kinda hard to tell
#63
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damn that looks sweeeett dude make some id love to buy one you could make some $$ off those you need to spray it so we can shee the true shape its kinda hard to tell
#64
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I have been making myself go out to the shop every evening to do a lay-up session. Sometimes I have to drag myself out there. But builders of home-built kitplanes (HUGE projects) know that if you do something on the project every day, it eventually gets finished.
I am in the stage of doubling up my layers now. Here is a wide angle shot of tonight's scene:
And here is a shot of my practice project for this bumper job, my relocated battery with its fiberglass form-fitted box.
I am in the stage of doubling up my layers now. Here is a wide angle shot of tonight's scene:
And here is a shot of my practice project for this bumper job, my relocated battery with its fiberglass form-fitted box.
Last edited by 88IntegraLS; 04-10-03 at 09:26 PM.
#67
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I finished all the necessary fiberglass work on the front of the bumper and proceeded to take off the cardboard from the back. Two layers of the cured glass / resin is very strong; I am impressed. I layed up two layers inside the ducts and three on the face of the bumper, so it can hopefully withstand impacts from rocks and animals while driving.
Now I am starting to get excited.
Now I am starting to get excited.
#70
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I think the stock brake ducts are useless, at least if the rotors are shrouded by splash guards as seen on most cars. I'll have to take a look to know for sure, but the short answer is no. And I've got the small brakes too (4 lug) . . . This car will rarely see road racing track time so I'm not worried about brake fade from multiple 110-40mph decelerations. I simply don't drive like that.
#72
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I've never seen those wheels before.... reminds me of delorean wheels for some reason.
Are you going to use the stock hood latch with this thing?
Are you going to use the stock hood latch with this thing?
#75
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I thought the hood latch would generate some interest. I unbolted its support bar, as well as cut out the cross piece that all the relays bolt to. I also have no front reinforcement bar. In other words, I am a hardcore weight reducing fool who last rear-ended someone many, many years ago so I am trusting that it won't get smashed.
The latch will bolt to the flimsy metal top piece. I tested it before making the decision to remove the center piece that goes down under the stock black shroud pieces. It is flimsy but holds the hood fine. The fiberglass shroud seen in one of the pics is absolutely rigid and I think it will add much stiffness when bolted to the latch mount bar.
yep, those are gsl-se wheels. I chose them because they weigh only 13lbs each. I also got them with the victoracers locally for $125 so I couldn't pass . . . The car is sitting so high right now because it weighs about 2000lbs or less . . . no engine or interior in it.
The latch will bolt to the flimsy metal top piece. I tested it before making the decision to remove the center piece that goes down under the stock black shroud pieces. It is flimsy but holds the hood fine. The fiberglass shroud seen in one of the pics is absolutely rigid and I think it will add much stiffness when bolted to the latch mount bar.
yep, those are gsl-se wheels. I chose them because they weigh only 13lbs each. I also got them with the victoracers locally for $125 so I couldn't pass . . . The car is sitting so high right now because it weighs about 2000lbs or less . . . no engine or interior in it.