2nd Generation Specific (1986-1992) 1986-1992 Discussion including performance modifications and technical support sections.

Hmm..Buzzer works for coolant, but not Shift?

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Old Feb 15, 2004 | 09:33 AM
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Hmm..Buzzer works for coolant, but not Shift?

I like the buzzer but it doesnt come on at redline, or does it come on later in the n/as? my TII came on right at 7k, does this one come on at 8k or something?

edit: sry, S4
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Old Feb 15, 2004 | 10:42 AM
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S4 buzzers, all of them, come on at 6800, give or take 2-300 rpm. This is what the owner's manual states.
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Old Feb 15, 2004 | 11:52 AM
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well i've taken it to about 7500(engine didnt have any power after 7k, fell on its face) and it never buzzed...any ideas?
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Old Feb 15, 2004 | 12:59 PM
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Fuse, probably.
Check the plugs into the CPU.
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Old Feb 15, 2004 | 01:01 PM
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plugs into the CPU??
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Old Feb 15, 2004 | 01:29 PM
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Originally posted by truespin88
Fuse, probably.
Check the plugs into the CPU.
That is as wrong as you can get!

The only fuse for the redline buzzer is the same fuse for the gauges.

And the CPU has nothing what so ever to do with the Redline/low oil/low coolant buzzer. They are not even wired together.

Please do not post if you do not know the correct answer.

And the correct answer is:

If the redline buzzer is not working, but the buzzer does work for low coolant or low oil, then the screw feeding the over rev signal to the buzzer is corroded or loose, or there is a cold solder joint in the Tach in the gauges.
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Old Feb 15, 2004 | 01:53 PM
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From: Jerzee
"Please do not post if you do not know the CORRECT answer"

Hey, relax man. We're all trying to pitch in to help a fellow member with a problem here. If one of us doesn't have the correct answer, then somebody can provide us with one, don't get all holier than thou and restrict somebody from trying to help another with this attitude of yours. It's unecessary.
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Old Feb 15, 2004 | 01:58 PM
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Originally posted by Icemark


If the redline buzzer is not working, but the buzzer does work for low coolant or low oil, then the screw feeding the over rev signal to the buzzer is corroded or loose, or there is a cold solder joint in the Tach in the gauges.
can you tell me which screw feeds the over rev signal?
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Old Feb 15, 2004 | 02:07 PM
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From: Rohnert Park CA
Originally posted by FC3SDrifter82
"Please do not post if you do not know the CORRECT answer"

Hey, relax man. We're all trying to pitch in to help a fellow member with a problem here. If one of us doesn't have the correct answer, then somebody can provide us with one, don't get all holier than thou and restrict somebody from trying to help another with this attitude of yours. It's unecessary.
NO, if you post a bogus answer you are not helping... you are screwing/messing with the person asking the question.

What if the guy went and spent $150 on a new CPU because I member told him the problem was related to CPU... Did that help? NO.

Or maybe he goes out and spends a half hour pulling all the fuses to check to see if there is a blown one...

Is that pitching in? NO. It is just short of deliberately messing with someone, trying to screw him or her up!
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Old Feb 15, 2004 | 02:11 PM
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From: Jerzee
Whoa hey man, relax will you? I'm sure nobody here is trying to deliberately **** with the guy....obviously there are members with more knowledge than most, but there's no reason to flip out, man.

This is why this board worries me at times...I get afraid to post answers...
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Old Feb 15, 2004 | 02:15 PM
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From: Rohnert Park CA
Originally posted by AE_Racer
can you tell me which screw feeds the over rev signal?
Yeah on the S4 cluster there is a screw directly between the white plug and the black plug and the 2nd screw is at the top of the board marked O-R and is next to the Turn-R bulb.

The two solder joints for the buzzer itself is the solder joints nearest to the Beam bulb. There are 4 solder joints all are to the left of the Beam bulb. Remove and reflow the solder in all 4.
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Old Feb 15, 2004 | 02:16 PM
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From: Rohnert Park CA
Originally posted by FC3SDrifter82
This is why this board worries me at times...I get afraid to post answers...
You should be afraid to post wrong answers. Correct answers are always welcome.
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Old Feb 15, 2004 | 02:17 PM
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Both of the answers provided (fuse, CPU) were clearly guesses. Is that what you want posted every time someone asks a question? Lot's of guesses you have to wade through to find the facts? If you're not completely sure of your answer (i.e. "afraid to post"), then don't. There's no need to get all sensitive about it.
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Old Feb 15, 2004 | 02:18 PM
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From: Jerzee
Originally posted by Icemark
You should be afraid to post wrong answers. Correct answers are always welcome.
So in theory I should be afraid to post anything because I'll get jumped for it? Ridiculous.

Instead of just slamming the member, would it hurt to just correct them without making them feel like an idiot?

I'm not trying to step on any toes here, Icemark, just being rational. You might as well have flamed the person who gave the incorrect answer.
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Old Feb 15, 2004 | 02:19 PM
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From: Jerzee
NZ, read my abovementioined post. I'm through, I don't feel like having a war sparked over this, it'll only get this thread locked.
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Old Feb 15, 2004 | 02:19 PM
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From: JAX, FL
Originally posted by Icemark
Yeah on the S4 cluster there is a screw directly between the white plug and the black plug and the 2nd screw is at the top of the board marked O-R and is next to the Turn-R bulb.

The two solder joints for the buzzer itself is the solder joints nearest to the Beam bulb. There are 4 solder joints all are to the left of the Beam bulb. Remove and reflow the solder in all 4.
Thanks much, i'll try that out
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Old Feb 15, 2004 | 02:26 PM
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From: Jerzee
Good luck AE. Let us know how it goes.
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Old Feb 15, 2004 | 02:54 PM
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oh, is there anyway to test it out using the tach instead of putting it all back together to find out it doesnt work?
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