AE_Racer

iTrader: (1)

I like the buzzer but it doesnt come on at redline, or does it come on later in the n/as? my TII came on right at 7k, does this one come on at 8k or something?

edit: sry, S4

truespin88

S4 buzzers, all of them, come on at 6800, give or take 2-300 rpm. This is what the owner's manual states.

AE_Racer

iTrader: (1)

well i've taken it to about 7500(engine didnt have any power after 7k, fell on its face) and it never buzzed...any ideas?

truespin88

Fuse, probably.
Check the plugs into the CPU.

AE_Racer

iTrader: (1)

plugs into the CPU??

Icemark

That is as wrong as you can get!

The only fuse for the redline buzzer is the same fuse for the gauges.

And the CPU has nothing what so ever to do with the Redline/low oil/low coolant buzzer. They are not even wired together.

Please do not post if you do not know the correct answer.

And the correct answer is:

If the redline buzzer is not working, but the buzzer does work for low coolant or low oil, then the screw feeding the over rev signal to the buzzer is corroded or loose, or there is a cold solder joint in the Tach in the gauges.

FC3SDrifter82

"Please do not post if you do not know the CORRECT answer"

Hey, relax man. We're all trying to pitch in to help a fellow member with a problem here. If one of us doesn't have the correct answer, then somebody can provide us with one, don't get all holier than thou and restrict somebody from trying to help another with this attitude of yours. It's unecessary.

AE_Racer

iTrader: (1)

can you tell me which screw feeds the over rev signal?

Icemark

NO, if you post a bogus answer you are not helping... you are screwing/messing with the person asking the question.

What if the guy went and spent $150 on a new CPU because I member told him the problem was related to CPU... Did that help? NO.

Or maybe he goes out and spends a half hour pulling all the fuses to check to see if there is a blown one...

Is that pitching in? NO. It is just short of deliberately messing with someone, trying to screw him or her up!

FC3SDrifter82

Whoa hey man, relax will you? I'm sure nobody here is trying to deliberately **** with the guy....obviously there are members with more knowledge than most, but there's no reason to flip out, man.

This is why this board worries me at times...I get afraid to post answers...

Icemark

Yeah on the S4 cluster there is a screw directly between the white plug and the black plug and the 2nd screw is at the top of the board marked O-R and is next to the Turn-R bulb.

The two solder joints for the buzzer itself is the solder joints nearest to the Beam bulb. There are 4 solder joints all are to the left of the Beam bulb. Remove and reflow the solder in all 4.

Icemark

You should be afraid to post wrong answers. Correct answers are always welcome.

NZConvertible

Both of the answers provided (fuse, CPU) were clearly guesses. Is that what you want posted every time someone asks a question? Lot's of guesses you have to wade through to find the facts? If you're not completely sure of your answer (i.e. "afraid to post"), then don't. There's no need to get all sensitive about it.

FC3SDrifter82

So in theory I should be afraid to post anything because I'll get jumped for it? Ridiculous.

Instead of just slamming the member, would it hurt to just correct them without making them feel like an idiot?

I'm not trying to step on any toes here, Icemark, just being rational. You might as well have flamed the person who gave the incorrect answer.

FC3SDrifter82

NZ, read my abovementioined post. I'm through, I don't feel like having a war sparked over this, it'll only get this thread locked.

AE_Racer

iTrader: (1)

Thanks much, i'll try that out

FC3SDrifter82

Good luck AE. Let us know how it goes.

AE_Racer

iTrader: (1)

oh, is there anyway to test it out using the tach instead of putting it all back together to find out it doesnt work?