High school student that needs help
01-17-08, 10:57 PM
#51
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^Thats true. I forgot to mention that.
Worst-case scenario: bum rides to school for a few days. I have been known for doing this. My friends after close to 3 months started getting frustrated, so I gave them all Blockbuster gift cards that my dad got from work. Then they didn't mind after that. Just don't abuse it too much; ask someone else everyother day or something. Now getting home is a little harder.
Worst-case scenario: bum rides to school for a few days. I have been known for doing this. My friends after close to 3 months started getting frustrated, so I gave them all Blockbuster gift cards that my dad got from work. Then they didn't mind after that. Just don't abuse it too much; ask someone else everyother day or something. Now getting home is a little harder.
01-17-08, 10:59 PM
#52
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Yeah. I did/am doing my own clutch job right now. Seriously its not hard at all. All you have to do is take the exhaust off, the 4 bolts at the rear of the driveshaft, unbolt the starter, slave cylander, unhook some electrical stuff, unbolt the trans, then there are 6 bolts that bold on the pressure plate, remove, discard, take the pilot bearing out (mine is being a b*tch, but whatever) I highly recommend resurfacing your flywheel too. Thats about 40 bucks. Then install everything back on and make sure to torque your flywheel properly, and be sure to put every bolt back where it came out of. Then break it in.
All this can be done in about 4/5 hours. It sounds worse than it is. It is not hard at all. Just get a friend/neighbor to help to get it done with ease. Also, I am a Junior in high school and I have a job that pays decently. So there should be no excuses why you don't want to do it on your own.
All this can be done in about 4/5 hours. It sounds worse than it is. It is not hard at all. Just get a friend/neighbor to help to get it done with ease. Also, I am a Junior in high school and I have a job that pays decently. So there should be no excuses why you don't want to do it on your own.
Hey maybe you can come over and help me out on this?
On my Last RX-7 I was with out it for 3 weeks, I can handle it haha, I didn't know what a Coolant seal was back then :X
01-17-08, 11:39 PM
#53
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Hell yeah! Two '7s and your a sophmore. I bought my first one at the begining of sophmore year and my second one right before finals! Then I got another one in November.
I'd be glad to help. I am pretty busy between work and studing for finals. Just send me a PM if you want me to come down and help. Where in L.A. do you live?
I'd be glad to help. I am pretty busy between work and studing for finals. Just send me a PM if you want me to come down and help. Where in L.A. do you live?
Last edited by 13bchris; 01-17-08 at 11:39 PM. Reason: forgot a few words
01-17-08, 11:42 PM
#54
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Hell yeah! Two '7s and your a sophmore. I bought my first one at the begining of sophmore year and my second one right before finals! Then I got another one in November.
I'd be glad to help. I am pretty busy between work and studing for finals. Just send me a PM if you want me to come down and help. Where in L.A. do you live?
I'd be glad to help. I am pretty busy between work and studing for finals. Just send me a PM if you want me to come down and help. Where in L.A. do you live?
I'll hit you up as soon as I get everything ready!
01-17-08, 11:49 PM
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******* awesome, I love these forums!
I'm so happy that my RX-7 is actually going to work ahahaha, now I know what they mean about the pay off of it working.
I'm so happy that my RX-7 is actually going to work ahahaha, now I know what they mean about the pay off of it working.
01-18-08, 12:15 AM
#59
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if you've never owned one before and you've only been wrenching for a little while, a 2nd gen non turbo will be a handful, but manageable. I hope you have a backup source of transportation.
Dropping the tranny isn't bad, although I initially found it difficult to get the slave cylinder bolts off until I used 1/4" ratchet with a universal joint and an extension I think. When you pull off the tranny bolts make sure you label each one and draw a picture of where they go because they are all different. And use extensions and a universal joint to get off the tranny bolts.
When you are pulling off the driveshaft, mark it in one spot so you know how it goes back on. Also I found it really hard to get the driveshaft off even after I had removed the bolts, until I used a rubber malet and wood chisel to break it loose from the joint. Also use this as an opportunity to put some Redline MT-90 fluid in your transmission which should improve shift quality a little bit.
When you put the tranny back in, of course double check that you put the clutch stuff in properly. I found it easier to get the tranny to line up if you jack up the crank pulley of the engine which tilts the motor down a bit.
Oh, and use a **** TON of pb blaster on all your bolts (especially exhaust) and let it soak overnight before you start wrenching.
Dropping the tranny isn't bad, although I initially found it difficult to get the slave cylinder bolts off until I used 1/4" ratchet with a universal joint and an extension I think. When you pull off the tranny bolts make sure you label each one and draw a picture of where they go because they are all different. And use extensions and a universal joint to get off the tranny bolts.
When you are pulling off the driveshaft, mark it in one spot so you know how it goes back on. Also I found it really hard to get the driveshaft off even after I had removed the bolts, until I used a rubber malet and wood chisel to break it loose from the joint. Also use this as an opportunity to put some Redline MT-90 fluid in your transmission which should improve shift quality a little bit.
When you put the tranny back in, of course double check that you put the clutch stuff in properly. I found it easier to get the tranny to line up if you jack up the crank pulley of the engine which tilts the motor down a bit.
Oh, and use a **** TON of pb blaster on all your bolts (especially exhaust) and let it soak overnight before you start wrenching.
01-18-08, 12:48 AM
#61
coolant leak that kills
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the first major repair is always kind of intimidating, at least it was for me. but once you finish it, and you have an understanding of how it all goes together, you realize it's a lot simpler than it appears at first. and, if you do it yourself, not only does the experience make you better able to do other repairs, if something breaks and you have to drop the trans in the future, it won't be a big deal to you.
as a mechanic friend of mine would say, "it's not brain surgery, it's putting part A together with part B". some other advice from him that helped me and will probably help you- when you have it apart, take some time to visualize how the system operates, then be thoughtful as you put it all back together...take your time and pay attention.
one hint, though- those plastic clutch alignment tool are not perfect. you will probably be able to wiggle it around at least an 1/8" in any direction. i've never done a clutch with the engine in teh car, so i don't know how good your view will be, but try to center the alignment tool as good as you can. it doesn't have to be dead on, but the closer the better, so don't just let the clutch disk hang from it while you tighten the pp bolts.
regarding the car itself- the vast majority of issues you'll have with teh car will be completely unrelated to the engine type. especially given that it has a rebuild, you shouldn't have any engine-related problems. just don't overheat it or run it out of oil, and you'll be fine (which, again, are pretty standard criteria for keeping any engine running).
sorry for the long post, but i remember being in the same position a few years ago. just go for it, it'll be a lot more fun than working off that $150-200 repair bill.
as a mechanic friend of mine would say, "it's not brain surgery, it's putting part A together with part B". some other advice from him that helped me and will probably help you- when you have it apart, take some time to visualize how the system operates, then be thoughtful as you put it all back together...take your time and pay attention.
one hint, though- those plastic clutch alignment tool are not perfect. you will probably be able to wiggle it around at least an 1/8" in any direction. i've never done a clutch with the engine in teh car, so i don't know how good your view will be, but try to center the alignment tool as good as you can. it doesn't have to be dead on, but the closer the better, so don't just let the clutch disk hang from it while you tighten the pp bolts.
regarding the car itself- the vast majority of issues you'll have with teh car will be completely unrelated to the engine type. especially given that it has a rebuild, you shouldn't have any engine-related problems. just don't overheat it or run it out of oil, and you'll be fine (which, again, are pretty standard criteria for keeping any engine running).
sorry for the long post, but i remember being in the same position a few years ago. just go for it, it'll be a lot more fun than working off that $150-200 repair bill.
01-18-08, 12:55 AM
#62
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the first major repair is always kind of intimidating, at least it was for me. but once you finish it, and you have an understanding of how it all goes together, you realize it's a lot simpler than it appears at first. and, if you do it yourself, not only does the experience make you better able to do other repairs, if something breaks and you have to drop the trans in the future, it won't be a big deal to you.
as a mechanic friend of mine would say, "it's not brain surgery, it's putting part A together with part B". some other advice from him that helped me and will probably help you- when you have it apart, take some time to visualize how the system operates, then be thoughtful as you put it all back together...take your time and pay attention.
one hint, though- those plastic clutch alignment tool are not perfect. you will probably be able to wiggle it around at least an 1/8" in any direction. i've never done a clutch with the engine in teh car, so i don't know how good your view will be, but try to center the alignment tool as good as you can. it doesn't have to be dead on, but the closer the better, so don't just let the clutch disk hang from it while you tighten the pp bolts.
regarding the car itself- the vast majority of issues you'll have with teh car will be completely unrelated to the engine type. especially given that it has a rebuild, you shouldn't have any engine-related problems. just don't overheat it or run it out of oil, and you'll be fine (which, again, are pretty standard criteria for keeping any engine running).
sorry for the long post, but i remember being in the same position a few years ago. just go for it, it'll be a lot more fun than working off that $150-200 repair bill.
as a mechanic friend of mine would say, "it's not brain surgery, it's putting part A together with part B". some other advice from him that helped me and will probably help you- when you have it apart, take some time to visualize how the system operates, then be thoughtful as you put it all back together...take your time and pay attention.
one hint, though- those plastic clutch alignment tool are not perfect. you will probably be able to wiggle it around at least an 1/8" in any direction. i've never done a clutch with the engine in teh car, so i don't know how good your view will be, but try to center the alignment tool as good as you can. it doesn't have to be dead on, but the closer the better, so don't just let the clutch disk hang from it while you tighten the pp bolts.
regarding the car itself- the vast majority of issues you'll have with teh car will be completely unrelated to the engine type. especially given that it has a rebuild, you shouldn't have any engine-related problems. just don't overheat it or run it out of oil, and you'll be fine (which, again, are pretty standard criteria for keeping any engine running).
sorry for the long post, but i remember being in the same position a few years ago. just go for it, it'll be a lot more fun than working off that $150-200 repair bill.
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