You go to the wiring diagrams for the car, page 50-22, and pull off the largest plug. The put the meter on ohms and ohm out the three wires shown X , U, M from the ECU plug to the coil plug. The four wire coil plug..

Or go to the FUEL AND EMISSIONS section of the FSM. Go to the page called Control Unit that show the value of all the pins in the ECU plugs. Have all the plugs on the car connected and then backprobe each wire for the trail coil and see if it's similar to the value given in the FSM.

The trail coil has one black wire in a bullet connector. Make sure that wire is not grounded or connected to anything at all.

Also make sure the Two wire plug at the trail coil assy has 12vdc on each of the two black/yellow wires in that plug. Key to ON when you do that.

The above is for a series four car.

 

the way you phrases everything was confusing
and its not helping me that you suggested how to do it for a series 4 car
i have a series 5 NA so there is a difference between the two

so i have a multi-meter what else do i need?

 

okay
so i got the tach to work my friend crimped two blue wires that didnt belong so i just changed them and bam tach is working
my lights im taking a guess that the switch is broken
lets see what else
okay now my high idle is my issue
im reading 3.5k-4k
and i was looking at the throttle and its a little out of place becuase if i push it in the idle drops to 1k how its supposed too
so any suggestions on what might be wrong
or should i just buy a new throttle body?
help me out im almost done fixing my car =]

 

there are small screws on the throttle body that allow you to adjust the butterflies in the t/b you want them almost all the way closed i had this problem when i removed my secondary throttle plates.

 

can you send me a picture of the screws
are they on the throttle
the one where you can rev your car by hand because i was playing with it and nothing no progress

 

No he is talking about the screw on directly above the plates! It should be covered by a black cap, take that off and do as he instructed, see if it helps.

 

any luck? still needs pics to figure it out?

 

i tightened the screw you told me about
and the butterfly did close a bit but
nothing
the idle was at 2k now
and i cant go anymore into the screw
so i drove it around and the car is just revving by itself
i dont know what is wrong with it
like on neutral its just revving without me pressing on the gas
like on neutral it doesnt go down to 1k
and when driving if i put in the clutch its still at 3k-4k
i think the throttle body is messed up

 

vacc leaks bud. They're there. Make sure the screw that connects to the rod for the OMP is backed out as far as you can. The one on the top should be as far in as possible.

 

I had a 3k rpm idle when the nut fell off my dash pot and it backed it self all the way in. It could be a problem with the AWS since you can force it down to 1k

 

Oh, I didn't think about that. He might be right. If you take the thermo wax off the TB and put it in hot water, it should expand (I think) and that lowers your idle. You can do that test to determine if its working ok. And if not, just switch TBs with one of your buddies for the day.

 

i think i am just going to get a new throttle body
just to ignore the dilemma because i got a fix it ticket for my exhaust being loud so i need to get my car running to get it fixed and get my license back hahaha