Hi-stall converter for 2nd gen. turbo
03-09-05, 10:02 PM
#1
eureka_sa76
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Hi-stall converter for 2nd gen. turbo
Bob from down-under asking, does anyone have any experience experimenting with hi-stall converters, on a 13B turbo street car? I still want to be able to drive at the max. highway speed [110km. per hour] in overdrive, with the trans having a good lock-up. The stall speed of my car is 2000rpm.[ as near as i can tell with the throttle and brake mashed, and the hand-brake on], and my rpm. at 110km. is about 2,700rpm. in O/D...................Can anyone recommend a stall speed to go for? And what were the idiosyncrasies of any particular set-up experienced by anybody? Gotta go, got a crocodile stuck up m'a tail pipe!
03-09-05, 10:19 PM
#2
I rolled down a mountian
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i was talking to a nieghbor about racing convertors and told me a funny story about what happened to a friend of his that installed one.
his friend had a big fat american muscle car that he built for drag racing. They installed a race converter that locked up at a supposidly 3500 rpm, but the car was so heavy that it actually locked up at 4k or so.
So everytime they took off from a stop the engine would have to get to about 3k to get the car moving-- slowly, and when it the engine hit 4k it lit up the tires.
it was a funny *** site to see i was told.
i mean for drag racing its good to have it, rev to 3500 rpm, your press the brake or line lock to hold you there, then boogy on green.
your next gear would be above the stall speed.
but on the street..... its a clown car.
his friend had a big fat american muscle car that he built for drag racing. They installed a race converter that locked up at a supposidly 3500 rpm, but the car was so heavy that it actually locked up at 4k or so.
So everytime they took off from a stop the engine would have to get to about 3k to get the car moving-- slowly, and when it the engine hit 4k it lit up the tires.
it was a funny *** site to see i was told.
i mean for drag racing its good to have it, rev to 3500 rpm, your press the brake or line lock to hold you there, then boogy on green.
your next gear would be above the stall speed.
but on the street..... its a clown car.
Last edited by geargrabber; 03-09-05 at 10:24 PM.
03-10-05, 08:01 AM
#7
Just take the blue pill..
i love you aussies!! you guys are awesome and have some of the best rx's in the world. i was with my dad at woomera AS in australia, in the mid 90's and i loved it there! i wish i could be of more assistance, but i don t know of any companies that sell a hi-stall converter, plus we dont have automatic turbo's in the states. good luck to you though!
lamar
lamar
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03-10-05, 08:10 AM
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03-10-05, 11:40 PM
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eureka_sa76
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You sound like a top guy Lamar! Thanks for the info. So they dont have the auto turbo in the States? Geeze's, I didn't know that!......[P.S. somebody in OZ just bought one of Abel Ibara's old gen3 chassis, well, last year!]
03-11-05, 12:40 AM
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in drag racing, autoboxes kick ***.
Well... all autboxes except for FC's... they suck ***.
But with american muscle, an autobox will perform more consistent, and often faster shifts than a 5spd. Thats why most muscle drag cars use auth trannies.
On the other side of it, theres no fc autotranny that will withstand much more than 200hp :P
Well... all autboxes except for FC's... they suck ***.
But with american muscle, an autobox will perform more consistent, and often faster shifts than a 5spd. Thats why most muscle drag cars use auth trannies.
On the other side of it, theres no fc autotranny that will withstand much more than 200hp :P
03-11-05, 01:04 AM
#13
i have a 3000 stall converter
i let off the brake
car barely moves
give it a lil gas aroudn 1500rpm moves softly
2000rpm is driveable
DO NOT HOLD THE BRAKE TO LAUNCH THE CAR AT DRAG
that is the WORST WAY to launch your car... PERIOD
loads up your chassis, lifts up rear and keep it stiff, breaktraction once you launch
with a high stall... just step on the gas and go
and kenteth is right... hard to beat a high stall shift kit AT in a muscle car.... not to mention you break alot less parts too....
i let off the brake
car barely moves
give it a lil gas aroudn 1500rpm moves softly
2000rpm is driveable
DO NOT HOLD THE BRAKE TO LAUNCH THE CAR AT DRAG
that is the WORST WAY to launch your car... PERIOD
loads up your chassis, lifts up rear and keep it stiff, breaktraction once you launch
with a high stall... just step on the gas and go
and kenteth is right... hard to beat a high stall shift kit AT in a muscle car.... not to mention you break alot less parts too....
Last edited by slpin; 03-11-05 at 01:09 AM.
03-11-05, 02:12 AM
#14
Like Ghandi with a gun
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For that matter, Throw in a ford 9" with a detroit locker...and use a custon t350. its alot of custom work, but nothing an fc can do will break a race t350 tranny... or the 9"
03-11-05, 02:16 AM
#15
Stall converters
I know of a place that custom builds converters. Hell when i was downunder in 80
i did not see any rx's of any kind. I covered from Syndey to melbourne and to
Cairns. Hell we bought a eh holden station wagon to drive around. Had a blast
stayed to weeks on the beach at the gold coast. Buddy went off to mt isa,Spelling?
He was born in Austrailia and has alot o relatives there. rx7doctor
i did not see any rx's of any kind. I covered from Syndey to melbourne and to
Cairns. Hell we bought a eh holden station wagon to drive around. Had a blast
stayed to weeks on the beach at the gold coast. Buddy went off to mt isa,Spelling?
He was born in Austrailia and has alot o relatives there. rx7doctor
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