grinchy

In first and second gear when nearing redline with my headlights ON the warning lights begin to light up. I am guessing a loose alternator belt. Could there be another reason for this?

The warning lights do not begin to show if the headlights are off.

Thanks for any input.

Icemark

Alt is dieing

grinchy

Should I order a new one or just wait for this one to crap out. I mean, is it dangerous/bad for car to have the alt die while the car is running.

I have 350 w rms in amplifiers, and a 1/2 farad cap (I was trying to protect the alt with that). Anyway, should I get the oem alt or an aftermarket one. If aftermarket, any recommendations?

NZConvertible

It's hard on the battery, and a major PITA when you conk out miles from home and have to get it towed! Get it reco'd as soon as practical.Do a search, this was discussed a little while ago. Also do a Google search.

Icemark

well at 350 watts RMS you are using 30 to 60 amps (depending on actual efficency of the amps).

Since the headlights and parking lights use around 35 amps on and the car itself uses 10 to 20 amps while running, you could be at the edge with the alt output very quickly.

A cap will not save the alt from over-drawing the system, it is a simple band aid that acts like a fast battery. Just like a battery it needs to be charged by the alt when used.

Since the problem happens more at higher RPM, that also indicates that the regulator in the alt has at least one bad diode, which will allow AC voltage into your DC voltage system.

its my understanding that an alt out of a FD could also be used in place of a high output one, if no high output alts could be afforded.

Scott 89t2

mine used to do that. but my alternator tested fine. I ran another 8 gauge wire from the alternator to the battery and it went away. I already had another 4 gauge ground from battery to body, and an 8 gauge from intake mani to firewall. I have a POS battery that might have been part of the cause. I want to pick up a red top very soon.

grinchy

I immediately turned off the radio (and amps) after I noticed the lights coming on to see if there were still current problems without that load. The answer is yes, there were, or at least the lights came on (a gentle glow, not full on).

As to the Cap, I understand it is a quick response voltage (current?) source, and that it has to be charged just like other parts of the electrical system that store power (battery most notably). I thought though that it protected the alternator from seeing 'spikes' of current load, thus buffering it from undue strain (load). Is this BS that I read somewhere?

Perhaps Sunday I'll have an opportunity to get this looked into. I just added a 40 min commute to work to my life, so now having my car sick is a problem. I used to live 2.5 miles away. Wish I'd noticed this then.

Scott - you ran a ground to the alternator? or a positive? Those red tops are pricey.

Also I did go push on the belt and it could use a bit of tightening, but it wasn't super loose.

Off to search for the thread NZ indicated, and check for compatible high output alternators on the market.