gergrx7

hey guys i got my t2 about a week ago and love it. but there is one problem it hesitates pretty bad at about 4500, 5000, 5500 and so on all the way up to redline. so today i went and changed both of the coil packs. and pluged a tps tester in. but i didnt know that the engine had to be off to test the tps. and so i let it warm up and reved it up to redline at about half throttle with no boost. and it was smooth all the way up. then i did it one more time at WOT still smoth no hesitations. then i moved the car and tightend the alt. belt and took it for a drive. it was fine untill about 5k RPMs and it started hesitating so i took it back. adn on the way back it felt like it had no power and the idle droped to around 500 rpms and then stalled. so i started it back up and had to give it gas so it wouldnt stall but when i rev it now it is soo slow jsut barely getting up there. it idles liek a vacum leak, so i took off the TID and checked it for cracks but nothing. so i had my dad(who is a mechanic) listen why i was keepign my foot on the gas to hold the idle and he didnt hear and air coming out any where. what should i do? and suggestions would be helpful


cliff notes car hesitated above 4500 and changed coils now no power

Peruvianrx7

iTrader: (25)

all we did was tighten the alternator =(

Dook

My car is doing this exact same thing just about, however the next day my car wouldnt even run, get out a multimeter and use the factory service manual to check the air flow meter as im 90% sure that is the cause of my problems and you may be having the same problem, i'll post back whenever i get mine replaced but currently the $200 for the rebuilt one from autozone isn't avaliable so might be a few days, also do a compression test because blown rotor seals make the car act a lot like this but the car will smoke and backfire lots atleast from what ive seen, and if you happen to change your air flow meter before me please PM me and let me know the results as i still have some douts as to its causeing all of these problems but i'm replaceing it to know for sure

oh and btw my AFM messed up but was still fuctioning enough to not set off the check engine light so dont rule it out just because the light isnt on, anyway i'll let you know

gergrx7

is the n/a and t2 afm the same? because i have a afm from a n/a that i could put in. btu i dont think thats the prolem because it was fine untill i drove it then it started to mess up. but ill check that tommorow

Dook

they are set differently from my understanding and the N/A AFM would make the t2 run lean i believe but ive read somewhere in the forum you can put the N/A AFM on as a temporary fix and to test the old one. mine did the exact same thing while was working on my car also and i guess its just some freak coincedence but all i did was bleed my clutch slave cylinder and tighten a bolt that was causeing an exhaust leak along with a few minor other simple things that had been annoying me and all of the sudden everything goes wrong....

read my post if you want and see if it sounds like the same problem but while reading yours i got a simliar feel to this problem i have been having which i why i responded, if it were me then i would put the N/A afm on atleast to rule out that as your problem or to be sure of the problem, however i dont have a spare and dont know anyone with an FC anywhere around here so i'll just be buying a new one. remember the n/a one would be temporary only and dont pound on the gas to test it etc as the car will be running lean or rich with the N/A afm however it should work well enough to make the car start and idle correctly to the best of my knowledge, if you test it out let me know but mine wont be here for a few more days.

gergrx7

update: today i wnet to work on the car. i found out that the plugs were put in wrong. an 9 and a 7 on the trailing and the saem on the leading plugs. so i changed that a cleaned them off. the car started up had all the power back and was smooth alltheway to redline. but it still have a bad idle and stalled out. so i checked the TID again and retightend all the clamps really tight. car started up fine and a steady idle at 1500. next all i got to set the idle down tounder 1000. but the car runs perfectly now.

Elysian

great to hear... my car was running real rough on the drive down from WA... i didn't realize i put the plugs in wrong, i never noticed the plugs said L and T on em, so i had em all fukkered up.... replaced em with some 3rd gen plugs and in the right spots and the car runs smooth now, even smoother than before i screwed with the plugs lol