hesitation all over the place
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hesitation all over the place
when i drive normally, all of a sudden my car decides to hesitate, not like where its at 3k or anything ill be driving in 4th gear n be around 4500-5500 n then all of a sudden its like as if i get no spark from the plugs, n my car just decides to stop accelerating n starts to decelerate as if when u run your car on empty.
today on my way to school it happened again, this started yesterday but today i was driving n then it just stopped working completely, but i was still moving but my car acted as if it stalled, so i shifted into neutral and then started the 7 back up while i was moving
could this be a timing problem? I have a 88 vert with a rebuilt engine about 10k miles ago no throttle body mod or any yet, just an exhaust, and a recent upgrade to the koyo radiator
today on my way to school it happened again, this started yesterday but today i was driving n then it just stopped working completely, but i was still moving but my car acted as if it stalled, so i shifted into neutral and then started the 7 back up while i was moving
could this be a timing problem? I have a 88 vert with a rebuilt engine about 10k miles ago no throttle body mod or any yet, just an exhaust, and a recent upgrade to the koyo radiator
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i noticed that when im in my car and when the "no gas" decelerating thing starts to happen i hear a clicking noise in my gauge cluster, it clicks when it starts to decelerate and then clicks again when it turns back on.....
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well, my engine light doesnt come up, it just starts to die n then slowly decelerates still the engine isnt turning like if u were to drive n then turn the key off...cant be my battery becuase i just got it tested, and cant be my alternator cuz everything stays on even when my car stops, ergh this does blow, the only way for me to get around town is to keep turning on the engine n turning it off, i turn it off when it starts to hesitate n then turn it back on n itll give me like 3 seconds of acceleration and i thought it did it in a random gear but it doesnt, also another thing is that it seems to do this only to when i am moving....
#5
Might be your fuel pressure regulator.......happened to me over the weekend. When driving I would hit the gas just like you said but it just wouldnt go. Finally it just closed and never opened back up.
#6
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i just had a similar problem. does it stutter a lot or feels like it doesnt wanna go WOT? it could be your secondary injectors, which was my problem. anything where i gave a lot og gas, it would stutter as if it were going to stall out.
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i can feel it giving gas if i lightly tap the gas peddle, itll give gas but nothing pass the distance of the "tapping" the peddle, but would that explain of why it doesnt shut off when im not moving, meaning i come to a complete stop, n then turn the car back on, n tehn it wont turn off or anything like it does when im moving
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#8
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ok i just drove my car really quik and nothing happened...hmmm..maybe ill see what temperatur this happens at, ill post later tonight after i get off work
#9
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Originally Posted by zeromage428
i can feel it giving gas if i lightly tap the gas peddle, itll give gas but nothing pass the distance of the "tapping" the peddl
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when do the secondaires actually work??? because i can go full throttle and everything right now that since my car has been sitting for a bit, but i bet a little later of driving for more than 20 min ittl start hessitating again
(im a nub to mechanics n willing to learn with this car)
(im a nub to mechanics n willing to learn with this car)
#11
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im a nub also! it just sounded similar to my recent problem. i only fixed it a few days ago after its been sitting for two weeks. at first it sounded like my problem but im not too sure now. but with a problem like that it could be anything.
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also, would that fuel injector stuff harm the engine at all??? the stuff u put in ur gas thats suppose to clean them out?? or is that just bullshit stuff, just wondering if its worth a try n to see if theyre clogged up
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It has all the characteristics of a bad tps. One of the things a tps does, is cut the fuel when you LET OFF the throttle. If your tps has a bad spot in it, it could be sending the ECU a signal that *Hey, I've Let Off the Throttle*, and the ECU cuts the fuel off, until the tps wiper reaches a good place and then the ECU resumes sending fuel.
Heat is one thing that could effect a marginal tps's pot. Might work just fine when the engine is cool, but once fully hot, the open in the pot shows up and you get the results you have now.
Or it could be another thing all together. You need to put a (preferably analog) meter on the tps and run it thru its full range, looking for open spots.
Heat is one thing that could effect a marginal tps's pot. Might work just fine when the engine is cool, but once fully hot, the open in the pot shows up and you get the results you have now.
Or it could be another thing all together. You need to put a (preferably analog) meter on the tps and run it thru its full range, looking for open spots.
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Aaron got it - the TPS.
Using test lights or voltage at idle readings will get your idle setting perfect, but you could still have a worn out TPS resistor.
-The golden test:
Unplug the TPS connector.
Clip a cheap analog (needle type) VOM on the orange & black pins.
Set it to the 1K scale.
Hold off the throttle & work the short range TPS plunger in & out.
You should see a smooth sweep from ~0 to ~5K ohms.
Any bad spots or drop outs in the stroke - it's bad & will give fuel cuts at part throttle.
(Before you toss it, try spray contact cleaner between the sleeve & plunger.)
- Then set it:
Find the fast idle (warm-up) cam & back it off so the throttle sits on the hard idle stop.
Adjust the setting to 1K ohms.
While holding off the fast idle cam, open & close the throttle a few times to see that the 1K setting repeats.
Using test lights or voltage at idle readings will get your idle setting perfect, but you could still have a worn out TPS resistor.
-The golden test:
Unplug the TPS connector.
Clip a cheap analog (needle type) VOM on the orange & black pins.
Set it to the 1K scale.
Hold off the throttle & work the short range TPS plunger in & out.
You should see a smooth sweep from ~0 to ~5K ohms.
Any bad spots or drop outs in the stroke - it's bad & will give fuel cuts at part throttle.
(Before you toss it, try spray contact cleaner between the sleeve & plunger.)
- Then set it:
Find the fast idle (warm-up) cam & back it off so the throttle sits on the hard idle stop.
Adjust the setting to 1K ohms.
While holding off the fast idle cam, open & close the throttle a few times to see that the 1K setting repeats.
#22
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aight well im looking for a new one right now, well, preferably a used one, i can get off of the victoria british catalog for like 150 shipped, should i just go to the local junkyard n try to use one of them first, or to just go with a brand new one?
#23
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from how you guys are explaining it im pretty sure its the tps now, its been acting up only when it gets near about 1/3 up the temp gauge, thats when the fuel starts getting cut n what not, going to the junkyard tomorow to try n find a used one, anybody have any requests for parts they need??? just post n ill get them
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