thanks Von, This makes my life a hell of a lot easier. Now at least I know where to start. If there's anyone out thier who can give me a step by step on fixing this problem I WOULD REALLY APPRECIATE IT. I'm fairly new to the world of rotary engines or piston engines for that matter, so my knowlege is fairly limmited as to what I can figure out on my own.

 

This is what I have done, in this order:
1. grounded ECU-4 wires grounded
2. grounded pressure sensor
3. tested the 5/6 port actuatores (working)
4. tested crank angle sensor-good
5. added ground from '-' batt to chassis, then to top of block.
6. changed fuel filter
7. cleaned secondary injectors (home job-not that dirty)
8. Tested voltage from ECU to secondairies (bad)
9. Tested continuity from ECU to secondaries (good).

I noticed the wiring diagram showed the hot wire goes from the battery to the main relay (through a fuse), then to the resistor selenoid, to the secondairies. I will be testing each wire/item next.

 

Heres what I did

Cleaned contact with a dremal (the contact from engine to ground in the back)

Ground battery to chassis

changed fuel filter

took out 6th ports completly and air pump , acv

got rid of lots of poping I had when cold but thats it.

VROOM MASTER? how do I test CAS? and can I just ground any of that black wires coming out of the ecu?

 

ok i'm having a problem with my TPS and it has got me on this 3800 hesitation my theory. well the TPS is your culprit i believe that there was a faulty TPS run on the S4 models all the tps's i have tested all have the same ohm spike at 3800 rpm additionaly when my original tps went bad i started with this spike when i had purchased the car it had not 3800 hesitation as the TPS went bad i developed a hesitation there and as it went out completely it got worse to the piont that i couldn't go past 4k in any gear at full or 1/2 throttle. i could however go at 1/4 or less throttle test your TPS with an ohm meter move the plunger slowly (very slowly) you should see a spike to 40 ohms around half throttle or if off the car half way in. if so you can try to clean the TPS with contact cleaner or replace with a unit with out the spike.

just my .02
james

 

von:
I'm not sure what the CAS is. Please explain and I can look it up.

 

How do you 'ohm out' a wire? just put a lead on each end and set the vom on ? ohms???

 

CAS is CRANK ABGLE SENSOR. I think you just mentioned it earlier

 

you have to check the resistance w/ an ohmeter. you want to check terminal G1 & G2, Ne1 & Ne2. With the CAS plug facing you & the plug lock on top, Ne1 is bottom left, Ne2 is top left, G1 is bottom right, G2 is top right--sorry I dont have an attachment-maybee someone else can post one, or just look in the FSM or haynes guide.

__
Ne2 G2

Ne1 G1

 

HAILERS:
If I get low/no voltage on secondary wires from ecu, does that mean bad ecu, or bad selenoid resistor? maybe main relay?

 

/\ bump

 

A jpg Vroomaster requested :

 

Another jpg:

 

blugxl// Why Is It then that when I replaced my TPS (BRAND NEW) I still got the damn hesitation, especially on colder days?

 

did you test it off the car?? and slowly push the punger in?? this is just a theory of mine that is why i was asking to test. also did you have the hesitation before you changed the TPS???

 

Some pics:

 

 

 

 

sorry about the dark pics-
the second one shows the selenoid resistor.
the third one show injector/ground wires(wires to be reomoved)
Yes, I had the manual out for my voltmeter to make sure I was working it right- I'm measuring dropping resistance in my selenoid & 2nd injectors.

 

My problem is solved!
I found some good secondary injectors at a salvage yard for $20 each. 30 minutes later, I have a perfectly running car!