MPLSrx7

ok so i got my deck stolen and they cut off all the plugs. so i am left with loose wires. i got this out of the faqs.

LTBlue/Red= 12v+
LtBlue/White= +Accessory
LtBlue/Yellow= -power ant trigger
Red/Black=+ Lumination
White=Factory Amp Turn on

Ground to the body, use the 10mm bolt behind the center console front drivers access panel. Do not use the Red/Black as ground it will damage the interior light circuit and dimmer in the car

Front Speakers (maximum of a 15 watt peak from the radio):
LtGreen/Red= Left
LtGreen/Black= Left

LtGreen= Right
LtGreen/Yellow=Right

Rear Speakers (if applicable, if you have the amplified rear speakers again the Maximum of 15 watts peak is all the stock speaker amp input can handle):
Brown= Left rear
Brown/White= Left Rear

LtBlue= Right Rear
LtBlue/Orange=Right Rear

the thing is it doesnt match up to my new deck because they have different names for the wires or give enough description to as if the speaker wire is + or -.

here is my new wires codes do you think you guys could help me out?

Thanks

Teyvareb@gmail.com

I've always gone by the standard red positive, black negative color code. As far as the speaker wires go, I've always gone with the stripes as a negative. If both have stripes, black is negative. the Blue/Red is the memory line, Blue/White is the main power. That should be about it. Just keep the special note about the relay for the power antenna. Uh... yep.

MPLSrx7

alright thanks, but what is a memory line called and main power on the new diagram i got? i can figure out the speakers its the ignition and all that stuff i really need help with.

Teyvareb@gmail.com

Memory is a constant 12V source to keep your settings, ignition is a switched 12V source that only turns on when the key is turned. So... accessory to the ignition wire, memory to the 12V+ wire.

HTH

lax-rotor

iTrader: (1)

Speaker +/- Doesn't matter so long as it's constant through out the setup, Otherwise you'll hear a polarity difference in the speakers. You'll hear it as a strange noise... almost like static.

Main Power- Battery... That provides constant voltage to keep the time on your radio.
Memory Line?....?

MPLSrx7

ok thanks for the help you guys i appreciate it.

is the factory amp turn on and remote turn on supposed to connect?

MPLSrx7

ok so i got the deck working, but i dont know what the hell i did. the dome lights only work if the car is on, the deck resets it's self when i turn the car off. and the dome lights and deck only work if i connect the 12v+ and accessory wires together. so right now i got all 4 lines tied together..... any ideas on what i did to the car???

Icemark

blown room fuse

always check fuses before posting

Teyvareb@gmail.com

Re-connect the wiring as you had it before the fuse blew, and put a larger fuse in. The aftermarket deck draws more current than the stock one did, and will keep blowing a low amp fuse. I had the same problem with mine whenever I hit the lighter and had the stereo going. You won't damage anything as long as you don't put an overly large fuse in, 30A should do it, but still might be too much.

Icemark

NO NO NO NO NO NO!!!!! DO not post such bogus information.

Never ever ever put a higher value fuse than the stock rating in.

The fuse protects the wiring. It is not there to protect the unit. Putting a larger value fuse than the stock rating is just asking for (at worst) a fire and at best melted wiring.

Never ever ever put a larger value fuse in. If the stock fuse for the wire you have used is not sufficent value, you need to run a new wire to the battery and fuse it there. If it is a switched wire then run the wire to the battery, fuse it and run the lead through a relay.

But never ever ever put a larger value fuse in... well unless you don't care if your car burns up.

Teyvareb@gmail.com

Mark, although I do not in the slightest doubt your knowledge or experience, if using the stock wiring, with a higher draw component, you need to use a higher amperage fuse. I have never seen anyone set a harness on fire by doing so. If you have even some clue about what you're doing, and don't try to fix a problem solely by putting a higher amp fuse in, there won't be any risk. In this case, a thirty will still provide more than enough protection for the wiring while allowing the higher draw aftermarket deck to function, and also gets rid of the four wire combo which is much more of a risk for a fire than the fuse.

Again, I am not trying to challenge you, but the whole situation must be assessed before a solution can be formed.

With that said, there may be other reasons why that fuse blew, such as crud in the lighter socket.

I would also trust the vehicle wiring more than telling someone to run a new lead and risk them using an improper gauge or connection methods.

Turbo II

iTrader: (1)

It does in my business.... some speakers are designed to travel a certain direction. You have a speaker trying to move its voice coil the wrong way and you'll over heat it and blow your speaker.

You'll have speakers that are now out of phase... and the system will sound like crap.

Icemark

Okay you are not getting it.

#1 The fuse that blew in his car was a 7.5 amp fuse. You are telling him to put in a 30 amp fuse. A fuse 4 times the factory value.

#2 Why does the factory only put in a 7.5 amp fuse??? Because not one of the wires is above a 20 gauge wire (and many on that circuit are 22 awg).

#3 what happens when you run 20 amps through a 20 awg wire. The wire gets very hot. And what happens when you run 30 amps through a 20 awg wire... the wire melts.

#4 This is the same wire that is used for the dome lights, Clock, CPU and ECU as a memory wire... what happens if you shorted the wire to ground with a 30 amp fuse??? I can tell you because I saw some idiot run his stereo off of it before... it smokes like a fuse for a stick of dynamite in a bugs bunny cartoon... with the hot melting copper burning its way through the carpet and plastic in the car. How about a factory wire for the dome light shorts rubbing through... a 30 amp fuse would never blow.. the wire would simply melt and burn the car instead.

Frankly only a Dumb **** would do this. Why do it half assed instead of right???

Again the fuse is to protect the wiring from melting and burning up in the event of a short. You short out the wire with a fuse 4 times the factory value... it does not protect the wiring or the car. It just burns.

The only wires inside the passengers compartment of the car capable of handling a 30 amp fuse are the blower wires, power window wires, and the ignition switch wires.

Yet you are asking the poor guy to burn down his car with a fuse 4 times the value???on a circuit that the biggest gauge wire is a 20 awg wire... I should ban you just for that.

MPLSrx7

alright thanks, i will replace it with the stock fuse.

and the deck did not blow it, it blew when i think i touched two wires together on accident.

glt-4-6

I have found on several Japanese cars that the wires are coded like this:

Yellow - memory / 12V constant
Red - Accesory
Black - Ground
Blue w/ white line - Remote hook up such as antenna/amp
Variuos colors - Speakers: the pairs of speaker wires are colored closly together but the darker one is ALWAYS the gound

Speakers are not multi-directional! Every speaker I have ever seen has a ground and a positive. They are built like this for a reason and should not be mixed up unless you want a fire or blown speakers.

If you have a four wire connection you messed up somewhere. I'll try to make this as easy to understand as possible.

The constant wire keeps power to your deck always. When you loose the constant power your deck will reset everytime you turn the car off. This wire should not be connected to the accesory, ground, or remote wires.

The accesory wire turns the deck on when your ignition is turned on. This wire should not be connected to the constant, ground, or remote wires.

The Ground wire is connected to the body/frame. If you cross this with either of the positive wires you will get sparks, blown fuses and possibly a fire. DO NOT cross this wire with any other wires!

The remote wire is connected to the amp, power antenna, or both. This wire does not have to be connected to anything if you don't have a power antenna or amp but it would be a good idea to block it off with tape or an end cap.

What I have tried to explain is what seems to be your problem. Get this mess sorted out and post back if it doesn't help.

Also the cig lighter metioned earlier would have nothing to do with the blown fuse unless you pulled the wires off of it and got them mixed in the sound system wires. Sometimes the accesory wire is split to go to the lighter and the deck. If the red wire going to the lighter is split follow it - you've just found your accesory wire. Keep the grounds and the positive away from each other always. If your lighter is still plugged in correctly get it out of the way and ignore it. If its not, plug it in correctly and get it out of the way.

Icemark

I think you are mixing up ISO headunit wire colors with cars. There is not a car made that uses ISO colors as you have described for its radio wires.

Okay this is more mis-information. Wiring a speaker backwards will not result in a blown speaker or a fire. In some show cars it is even done on purpose to change the polarity for time alignment of the speakers. The only thing that wiring a speaker backwards will do is generally reduce the output level of the sounds system. And again it is not uncommon to wire a speaker out for some applications.

On Mazda wiring. The top wire in the plug (the wire nearest to the connector lock) is the positive speaker wire. But in many cases the plug has ben cut off at either the speaker or the radio, in which case you must test or confirm the polarity.

The correct polarity on a basic system (without sub woofers or dedicated multi amped channels) will have the best bass and loudest sound when the balance control is in the middle position. If you have more bass and sound when he balance control is in either the left or right position, you have a speaker wired backwards (out of phase). It will not catch on fire, or blow the speakers voice coil up however.


If you newbies don't stop posting miss-information in this thread, I (or one of the other moderators) will shut this thread down. Consider this the last warning in this thread.

karlm

Hi all;

I just replaced the cut wires in my 88 vert with a metra kit.

It is the exact same part number as the deck to harness kit, except the 17 is reversed, making it 71- for a partr number.

(I'm tempted to say 71-1780 for replacement in-dash harness, and 17-1780 for the deck to dash kit)

You still need to know which wires in the dash go where, but this works great, as you now have factory plugs.

Schoshe (Spelling) also makes a kit, but the metra was in stock here, so I went with it.

Karl

glt-4-6

Sorry dude but thats how my friends' Celica, Mustang, Blazer, my 4-runner and S-10 is wired.

And I hooked up a speaker backwards one time and it did spark and blow out.

I'm no trying to argue just posting what I know.

Icemark

Then you found the aftermarket wiring for the car and not the factory wiring.

For example... there is not a Toyota/Lexus/Scion made that does not have white/black as the ground for the radio.

And not a GM made that does not have Orange for the radio's constant 12 volt lead.

Your friends must have had aftermarket stereo's already installed, and you just found the wires that someone else tapped off already.

Perhaps you hooked up the speaker to power and ground, because there is not a radio made that could cause a speaker to spark and blow out. Hell I have hooked up some speakers to the 120 volt wall current and not had a spark.

This is a classic example of why if you have any doubts on your ability to read schematics or understand car wiring, that you should never install car stereo, but rather pay a professional to do it. Using someone elses wiring is far from acceptable installation practice.

And just so you know... I spent 17 years installing, designing, and supporting car stereo and alarm. Was nominated for MES installer of the year twice and worked 7 of those 17 years at the worlds largest car stereo/security manufacture as a support tech and design engineer.

MPLSrx7

alright, i am going to test if the speakers are hooked up right when i get my dash kit. right now i just have everything taped together and the deck sitting in the big hole


i couldn't go any longer with no music. but when i get the dash kit i am going to redo all the wires with butt connecters and also test if the speakers are right.

is the room fuse under the hood with the other fuses?

thanks for the help you guys.

Icemark

Room fuse is in the kick panel.

Fuses can be found in the FAQ for FC sticky thread at the top of this section

Sharpie

I didn't want to start a new thread but anyways I know the stock wiring is:
LTBlue/Red= 12v+
LtBlue/White= +Accessory-
LtBlue/Yellow= -power ant trigger-
Red/Black=+ Lumination-
White=Factory Amp Turn on

But now I dont know what my the wiring is for my new deck the wiring for it is:
Black- Ground
Yellow- Constant 12v to fuse block
Red- To accessory terminal in fuse block
blue- to remote lead of other equipment or automatic antenna (i took the antenna out if that matters)
Orange- (illumination) to car light controll switch

If anyone could match them up that would be greatly appreciated

Thanks in advance,
Josh

Sharpie

ok so i hooked it up now but there is no power to the deck....