mazdaverx713b

iTrader: (91)

the FSM was of no help and the vacuum lines were screwed from the beginning so i really have no good reference point. the engine is a replacement for my 10AE and the only difference is that i'm using a sub zero assist motor form an 87. i'm about ready to finish my vacuum lines and i have no idea where these go.

which vacuum lines attach to the rear of the upper intake manifold? i know they are not supposed to be capped:



where does the large line off of the vacuum spider go? i assume the rear of the uim:



this vacuum line is in the center of the lower intake manifold in between the oil injectors. no idea where it should plug into:



the vacuum line that hooks to the secondary rail. where does it go?:



what vacuum line hooks to the sub zero starting assist pump? i was thinking one of the three on the back on the uim:

MIDNFauciUSN

iTrader: (8)

page 4B-5 of the FSM makes it pretty clear.

mazdaverx713b

iTrader: (91)

it isn't completely clear to me. i researched that first. i though it would be better if someone knew the exact locations.

jdonnell

iTrader: (1)

The first picture where there are 3 together in a column, the bottom one goes to the water sensor (plastic thermosensor). It has the green/white check valve 1/2 way. I took a picture of a picture I had so I hope that helps a little.

beefhole

iTrader: (29)

Easy! The middle nipple in your first pic is for the oil injector spider, which you are touching in a few pics later.
The fuel rail/FPR vac line goes to the only free nipple you should be finding on the middle/inside of the LIM. It is underneath the oil injector lines and you are just having a hard time seeing it.

EDIT:
The rail/FPR line goes to the "angled" nipple in the middle of the LIM. The nipple between the oil injectors on the LIM goes to the rear top nipple on the UIM.

mazdaverx713b

iTrader: (91)

ok, here's the issue that i'm running into. i understand that the FPR vacuum line is supposed to run into the angled port on the lower intake manifold. this however, had led me to remove the vacuum line that i currently had in place. this line ran from the angled port on the lim to a port on the vacuum rack that points straight up. what will go here now?

here are pics of the now open port on the vacuum rack:





and i found this bugger open as well. it connects to the wastegate actuator. i see a vacuum line hanging near it. is it correct to hook that vacuum line there?

mazdaverx713b

iTrader: (91)

think i got it figured out.

RobbyWally

iTrader: (2)

Let me know if you still have questions. The engine from my '87 T-2 is on a stand with (I think) all the hoses still attached. I should be able to help if you haven't sorted it out.

RotaryEvolution

iTrader: (30)

in your last post the second picture, the metal line on the rats nest goes to that port on the LIM, at the bottom of the picture a little obscured by the spider. the one hanging off the back by the downpipe goes to the twin scroll hardline which wraps around the turbo system underneath.

the sub zero system should be capped off, don't bother hooking it up.

mazdaverx713b

iTrader: (91)

the only reason that i'm hooking the sub zero system up is because my 10AE is an oem correct restoration. i got pissed off with the coolant line from the rear iron to the throttle body and capped both ends. there is no provision for a thermowax vacuum "T" on my throttle body anyways so it didn't really matter to me. i'll warm it up manually if it means that i don't have to fight with that dumb hose.

RotaryEvolution

iTrader: (30)

i understand that, but it will still technically be restored without it functional as mazda even provided a TSB to remove it because it's functionality has always been trivial.

mazdaverx713b

iTrader: (91)

^^agreed that its a trivial system. it will never get used as i don't drive the car in the winter months.

texFCturboII

iTrader: (17)

It didn't even work to begin with...

barnett87rx7

iTrader: (1)

do you have to smog your car? If not I would recommend removing the rats nest ..... it cleans up the engine bay and reduces the risk of possible vac leaks in the future. Also I dont remember if the 10ae's had the electric OMP but if they don't I would remove it and premix as those lines always leak and you don't get the lubrication needed. .... Im pretty sure the ae was still considered s4 so heres a pic of the emissions removal

mazdaverx713b

iTrader: (91)

i don't want to remove anything from the car as i'm keeping the car completely stock. my favorite thing is oem correct restorations. i restore 7's to o.e. correct specifications and the 10AE imo, is a car that should always be kept stock when in the hands of an enthusiast. i understand modding and i'm all for it, but not on rare cars like the 10AE. the 10AE is most definatly an S4 and has a mechanical omp. only the S5's and up have electronic omp's.

i do appreciate the picture for the emissions removal and when i build another TII and practice mega squirt building on that car, i will use that diagram to assist with the removal of the emissions.

HAILERS2

Should be four nipples on the back of the intake housing, on above the other in a row.. Bottom nipple is the only one that is vacuum and goes to the water thermo valve. The nipple that is biggest goes to the OMP spider.......next nipple is filtered air going to the fuel injector air bleed nipple b/t the two outer oil injectors on the manifold..........top nipple gets capped off. IF you only have three nipples and not four...I question if this is a ten anniversery car. Could be wrong about that since I don't own one.

mazdaverx713b

iTrader: (91)

its a 10AE for sure. i have owned the car for quite a few years. its a replacement throttle body and upper intake manifold, both of which were from a jdm engine that i had installed six years ago. i just replaced that engine with a good engine from an 87 TII. i used my uim and tb. everything mated up perfectly.