demahfahbun106

!!!!!!HELP ME Whats Wrong??????????!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!


Not to long ago I bought an 87 turbo II. needed motor gearbox and a fuel pump. So I bought a walbro 2555lph one time just to get that part out of the way. Now after I put the fuel pump back in the tank it wasnt pumping, no noises,no nutting. Now even whe the pump was out of te tank it still wasnt getting any power. it actually made the buzzing noise for about 1 second and that was all. Are there any fuses for this??? and if it's not fuses what might be the problem???? Thanks.

iceblue

Take the pump out and bench test it.

The pump in car only pumps while cranking or running. If still not check the fuel pump resistor pack behind the passenger headlight. The easiest way to check for voltage with the key at ON is to check it coming in and out of the relay and tape open the flapper door on the AFM and see if the output voltage is increased or available at all.

NZConvertible

How about some simple electrical checks before complete diassembly?

The resistor/relay would be about the last thing to check.

How is that the easiest way? You jumper the fuel pump check connector first. If the pump won't run without the jumper wire, then you check the AFM and circuit opening relay.


demahfahbun106, I've answered your PM.

iceblue

Hmm :-/ Oh well I guess thats easier..... ^ Is how I did mine.

I asked him to bench test b/c what he said gave me feeling of a dead pump to rull that out of the way.

Where is the fuel pump check connector? Ohhhh I see jumper the 2 pins in the AFM? Yea that is easier :-)

My basic thought process on it was. Check if pump is good. Check for voltage at pump. Check for voltage at resistor and out of resistor. 1. to see if the resistor was dead 2. If it was befor the resistor.

NZConvertible

Not in the AFM. It's a yellow plug near the AFM, by the strut tower.

Pulling the pump is the last thing you want to do, after checking everything else. Removing and reinstalling a pump that turns out to be fine is a waste of time. You check for voltage at the pump once you're sure it's not actually running, i.e. after jumpering the check connector. You wouldn't pull the pump unless you have voltage to it but it wasn't going.

The resistor/relay does not turn the pump on and off, it's just changes it's voltage. Unless a wire actually breaks, if the relay fails the pump just gets full voltage all the time. You'd check the 15A ENGINE fuse before you get stuck into tracing the circuit with a DMM.

Always check the easy and most likely things first.

iceblue

Thank you for taking the time exsplaning NZ