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Help tii swap and no start

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Old Jul 21, 2012 | 06:37 PM
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Help tii swap and no start

i searched to try and answer this but couldnt narrow it down to get it. Just finished S4 TII swap into S4 NA. Ive already done this swap a few years ago in another car with no issue. Ok, so everything is together, car gets power and all the lights work etc... but when i turn the key to start there is silence. no clicks or anything. now when i turn key to start the main relay works and i checked the clutch switch and that seems fine, but i here a click or relay under the headliner? also in this picture there is a metal control unit under driverside dash that will not stop beeping when ignition is on and i dont know what it is??? anything will help at this point
Attached Thumbnails Help tii swap and no start-004.jpg  
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Old Jul 21, 2012 | 07:38 PM
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beeping is probably the low coolant sensor going until you get proper level after starting.
Did you hook up the Negative to the Long bolt on the starter off the Main harness,engine side,under the oil pedestal?
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Old Jul 21, 2012 | 07:50 PM
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What year is the NA? Does the car have factory alarm?
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Old Jul 21, 2012 | 09:23 PM
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the engine, drivetrain, and harness are from an '87 and the car is an '86. all cables are hooked up correctly to the starter and no the car didnt have the factory alarm, but it did have a cheap and very old but simple audiovox alarm that i removed. im pretty sure its all been set back to original, even checked the wires to the ignition
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Old Jul 21, 2012 | 10:17 PM
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Find the Blue plug near the trailing coil. The plug has a U shaped jumper wire. W/key to start and the clutch pedal depressed the Black/Green wire in the plug should have voltage. If it does then check the Black/White wire for voltage under the same conditions. The B/W wire runs to the starter solenoid. If the ignition switch were powered properly the wipers and turn signals would work w/key to on.
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Old Jul 23, 2012 | 05:49 PM
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i tested both sides of main fuse and they have power, i tested connector and it had power. the ignition had power into it and to acc, on and key to start. im guessing then the starter is junk? im just questioning it because it worked when i took it out of the other car...
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Old Jul 23, 2012 | 06:01 PM
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Originally Posted by tworotorguy
i tested both sides of main fuse and they have power, i tested connector and it had power. the ignition had power into it and to acc, on and key to start. im guessing then the starter is junk? im just questioning it because it worked when i took it out of the other car...
The B/W wire at the blue plug runs to the starter solenoid. Does it have voltage w/key to start or not?

The ignition switch receives power from the Main fuse so it always has constant power running "into" it regardless of the key position.
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Old Jul 28, 2012 | 03:02 PM
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there is no blue connector at all or one that has 2 wires you named with a U shaped jumper, all there is are the ones in the pic plus the connectors to the trailing coil
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Old Jul 28, 2012 | 03:20 PM
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i know this seems like a broken record for you ive read your other efforts to help in other posts maybe im having a brain fart.
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Old Jul 28, 2012 | 03:23 PM
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What are the wire colors in the Black plug w/four wires?
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Old Jul 28, 2012 | 03:26 PM
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the 2 bigger gauge ones were b/g and b/y or b/w, couldnt really tell, and the other 2 are tiny. that connector doesnt have a mate
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Old Jul 28, 2012 | 03:35 PM
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The thick B/G comes from the Interlock Switch located at the very top of the clutch pedal. It should have voltage w/key to start and the clutch depressed. The B/W wire runs to the starter solenoid and would also have voltage in the same situation as the B/G wire. When voltage is present on the B/G wire it gets passed on to the B/W wire. On cars w/the Starter Cut Relay the relay passes the voltage from the B/G to B/W wire. W/o the relay there would be a jumper wire connecting the two wires to each other.

I believe a factory turbo would have the Starter Cut Relay. Either yours is missing or the plug is not connected to it.
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Old Jul 28, 2012 | 03:46 PM
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ok. i swapped this same engine into an '88 gxl a few years ago and the n/a main harness stayed and thats what i used. now i have that same engine in an '86 using its n/a main harness as well, so im guessing they had diffrent main harnesses in those years using different interlock methods, so if i jump the the b/g wire to the b/w wire permenently, it should start with clutch depressed untilizing that switch on the clutch?
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Old Jul 28, 2012 | 03:54 PM
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I would think so. If the B/G wire has voltage as stated above and there is no corresponding voltage on the B/W wire then they need to be jumpered together.
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Old Jul 28, 2012 | 04:02 PM
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sweet sweet deal. i will get on that first thing in the morning, sadly my computer and car are about 40 minute drive from eachother
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Old Jul 29, 2012 | 06:49 PM
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thanx man, didnt realize there was subtle changes with connectors etc in that harness. wired the b/g to the b/w directly and that car fired right up
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Old Jul 29, 2012 | 07:34 PM
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then you owe satch some beer
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Old Jul 30, 2012 | 12:51 AM
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beep under the dash might be power steering related too just fyi.
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Old Jul 31, 2012 | 05:58 PM
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i could probably ship a cold beer on dry ice lol, yes that was the power steering control unit, already tossed it... now that it runs i can finally back it out, wash it and start ordering more stuff
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