flipside27

picked up an S4 turbo vert this week.

engine is practicly stock other than the streetport and all emissions have been removed.

the car ran and drove home. but will not start up on a warm engine.

Im guessing its a AF mixture issue. i dont have a guage just yet but ill be picking one up this week. it seems like the ECU needs to reset itself in order for it to start up or something.

should i get an SAFC? or a megasquirt EMS? and a AFM guage? i dunno...

but thanks guys

arghx

iTrader: (3)

it's a common problem on the s4 turbo cars. it could be leaky injectors, but honestly I had a lot less problems when I went to an Rtek chip.

flipside27

leaky injectors huh? and whats an Rtek chip. *opens google

flipside27

would an apexi FC help control the fuel air mix? how does that work? does it plug into the ecu?

immanuel__7

iTrader: (8)

if you ask me 600$ for a megasquirt system is the best thing you could do. tune from the ground up. my friend dj55b on rx7club.com build his street proted 12A to efi with a megasquirt
and he is running 14.5 on 1/4 still N/A, im running 14.2 with 13B Tii S5 same Fb chassis. megasquirt is the bomb thats my 2 cents tho. im doing one up this month. word is that Aaron might be making a wright up on one and we all know its going to have many many details!!! 600$ is 150$ cheaper then a apexi FC i think.

flipside27

i found an apexi fc for $350. i dont understand how it works though does it replace the ecu?
and thanks guys for responding at all! i really appreciate it. megasquirt i hear is a relativly cheap method of fixing AF problems. but my main concern is just to get it running and driving reliably. not so much power hungary quite yet!

flipside27

anyone else?

need-a-t2

iTrader: (9)

send out your injectors to be cleaned. as stated already they are more than likely leaking a bit. if that doesn't help, buy yourself an Rtek 1.7. it has an anti flood feature that will get your car started everytime once flooded.

both the injector cleaning and rtek should be under $200.

HAILERS2

A SAFC isn't going to do squat for hot/warm starting.

The stock ECU uses a internal START FUEL MAP for ...starting.

If you disable the ECU's ability to see the START signal from the start circuit, then the ECU will not use the internal START FUEL MAP and instead uses the afm for fuel during START. That results in much less fuel being injected during START.

The best thing you could do is go to Digital Tuning and buy a RTEK 2.1 which is a chipped ECU that, used with a Palm device, you can fool around with the fuel/timing and various other things. Cost a bit of dough though i.e. $400-500 for the ECU and software plus the cost of a Palm device......and downloading JAVA and other software programs etc.

The RTEK 2.1 has the ability to let YOU change the amount of fuel used during START.

IF you knew where the ECU was, and knew how to depin (I DID NOT SAY CUT) pin 3B on the small ECU plug, then the ECU will never see the START signal from the start circuit and the ECU will use the afm for starting (less fuel, no flooding during start). Been there, done that in the past. Viewed the fuel injection in ms on a Fluke to prove it works.

Need dough? Get a job at Catapiller. The anointed one said they're hiring. B.S What a quack and what quackery.

flipside27

damn, i wish i would have known. i just picked up an SAFC-II this week. good thing i can return it lol.

what if i picked up an HKS Twin Power DLI?

arghx

iTrader: (3)

I have an Apex'i Power FC and an HKS twin power. I only bought the twin power because I was getting misfire over about 12psi, and it cured it pretty good (it amplifies both leading and trailing spark). But it's expensive ($400ish new) and should only be used on cars that need it.

HAILERS2

You might want to keep the SAFC for other things. Maybe not.

Lots of people have fuel cut switches to prevent difficult starting when the engine is hot. They use it to turn off the fuel pump if the car won't start, then crank the engine til it starts and put the fuel cut switch back to ON. Cheap fix.

You could do yourself a favor and teach yourself how to depin a wire at the ECU plug. Then get the engine fully HOT and turn the engine off. THEN extract pin 3B on a series four car, and try to start the engnine again. The 3b wire will need some tape on its contact because each time you go to Start, the terminal has batt voltage on it. Don't want to short out a fuse.

Also a functional BAC helps a bit during starting. The BAC goes full open and stays full open when the key is HELD to START. Adds more metered air during starting.

flipside27

so is that the line connected to the EGI fuse? so essentually id be making a kill switch?

arghx-the guy who sold me the SAFC-II said hed sell his HKS dual power DLI to me for around 200 or less cause he no longer has use for it. Im not even sure if i need it though, my car is an s4 tii with a streetport by banzai. does that qualify?

thanks you guys for helpin out! still workin on it though