Direct air to the Cat wont cause flames.

 

Denatured, Isopropyl... These generally work.

 

Your not passing because either:

A: Your secondary air injection system is bad
B: Your initial idle mix settings are bad
C: Mis-routed air tube to the cat (split air I think its called)
D: Low compression (I hope not)
E: Bad injectors (possible but not likely)
F: Spark problem (poss lost trailing coil, not likely though)
G: EGR valve (S4 motor, generally doesnt cause high numbers like the ones you posted)

I applaud your decision to fix it and pass it the hard (read correct) way. But it could be any number of things. If you have some time, I can probably talk you through most of the tests.

Are you having problems starting the car in ANY circumstances? This can eliminate some things...

Jarrett

 

Okay well i just looked at the diagram from fc3s and extensively looked at the various intakes I have in my garage before I figured it out.

okay I'll post this info, and then i'll just shut up about it.

Here's the factory service manual diagram.





Here's what I think you did to your set up:









Here's what I think that affects:










Overall, I don't even know why you'd have an ACV?









Now in the diagram, there seems to be some confusion about how the split air selenoid valve goes into the acv etc. And It took me a while to figure it out in the diagram. But I did.

Below is the backside of the acv. I'm pointing to the part where air travels throught that seleniod valve:








And here is where it travels through the lower intake.









And guess what? That port in the above picture travels air directly through here:








That same inlet I was talking about on the LIM.



So if you have the airpump hooked up this way:








Where the system is just the airpump and the cat, someone somewhere might have got their diagrams all crossed up and for whatever reason, its not serving your needs..

 

Yeah, I was wrong about that. In my previous posts I alluded to the fact i can't remember if that was the case. A couple of months ago I read this thread:

https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...ght=flames+dad


My racing partner shoots flames with a catback on his NA. Removal of the air pump usually causes this, and also he is running a Wolf EMS that he can program to make extra big flames, lol.


For some reason I mixed it this up thinking something else in the whole 1 byte of memory my brain has.

Why would you run the airpump directly to the cat and not block off the acv???

 

Possible bad ACV? And unwillingness on the owners part to get another one? So run the pump direct to the cat!

 

I have time on the weekends mostly, but if you want to just PM some instructions I'd be greatly appreciative. My car has only had a problem starting about 3 times in the 5-6 months ive had it, and that was due to flooding (im pretty sure). It really wasnt that much of a problem, wouldnt turn over right away but i just floored it and it was fine. My idle is 95% of the time perfectly steady and hardly fluctuates or jumps at all (thats why it was weird during the emissions test), always runs great and strong. Motor has been rebuilt (148K on car about 30K on rebuild). If you want to know anything else to help me figure out what the problem is, let me know and ill answer them. Thx again!

 

****Overall, I don't even know why you'd have an ACV?****

Because normally the split air pipe gets a minimal amount of the air from the air pump. Most of the air goes thru the Port Air which goes to the holes at the exaust diffusers.

When you step on the pedal and accelerate the switching solenoid kills the air to the switching diaphram and allows air to go the the split air pipe. IF your in fifth gear the Split Air Solenoid opens and more air is sent to the split air pipe. Considerably more than orther times.

The poster of this thread needs to sit down and read the fsm and the part about how to check the acv for proper operation. There are several tests there for that. Most are straight forward and clearly written. One or two are vauge.

 

For what it is worth:

http://www.geocities.com/huguesdc1/secondary.html

There is a test on FSM that's very shaky: steps 5-6 for relief solenoid valve check.

Check for HAILERS posts on how to check if the secondary air injection is kinda functioning by checking the vacuum at the relief and switching ports at the ACV.

Hugues -

 

i fyou pass cruise but fail idle why not just try leaning out the L/R idle mixture screw lower your idle speed as well - it'd be SO funny if you're failing just bc of that little adjuster. if you pass cruise but fail idle I GUARANTEE that if you hold the car @ like 6K for 30 seconds THEN do the idle test you pass. cats will get real real hot and burn everything during the test.