BluRR

iTrader: (1)

Hey Guys, i'm in need of some help.

I have FD and FD engine but a Mircotech ECU programmed for an FC. I had rebuilt the engine and put on the an FC front cover and crank angle sensor on it to accept the FC programmed ECU. Although i have on the FC front cover I dont have FC pulleys. So I am using the FD pulleys. How do I set my timing so I can run my ECU correctly if I dont have the FC pulleys.

I know nothing about setting timing so please be very clear and detailed. Thank you.

Rob XX 7

iTrader: (8)

you should be able to find TDC and set the pulleys from there.
I run a mixed bag of pulleys and this is how we did it.

BluRR

iTrader: (1)

How do you find TDC? Whats the procedure?

Landon303

iTrader: (25)

Few posts down from hsre is one called "help point me in the right direction for my bad mpgs" or something there abouts. Post #69 has some info detailing a VERY important note on timing thst toull want to read

arghx

iTrader: (3)

You have FD pulleys. There's a timing mark on the FD pulley--I have no idea if it would be useful on an FC front cover.

As for finding TDC on your own, IMO that is super risky. You're talking about risking thousands of dollars you've spent on an engine. Finding TDC on a piston engine is easy. On a rotary it is guesswork, and methods have been thrown around. If you have an n/a engine, I'd say "whatever it doesn't matter that much" if you're off a few degrees. On a turbo setup, you're asking for a blown motor. Now I know there are a few people on here who have found TDC on their own for a turbo engine and never had any problems. Don't assume you will be one of those people.

Try putting a timing light on the trailing wire. The FD timing mark is for the trailing only (1 mark, not 2), at -20 BTDC (20 ATDC), same as FC timing mark for trailing. I don't have experince with microtech but you can usually go into some timing wizard or mess with the base map.

Lock your timing in the software to -5 leading and -20 trailing, same as stock idle timing. See where the mark is, and see what happens when you adjust the sensor. I have no idea if this is even a feasible approach.

I spent $200 on a brand new pulley and hub set on my engine from Mazda and never had any problems with timing ever again.

BluRR

iTrader: (1)

One of the problems I have also realised with this set up is that the pointer needle on the FD and FC covers are located at different places. Facing the engine, the FC needle is a shade to the right over the vertical centreline of the e-shaft. On the FD is a fair amount to the left. So even knowing that the FD pulley mark is at 20ATDC is still not enough without know the phase/angle difference between the FD and FC pointer needles. Because if I line up the pulley mark on the FD pulley with the FC needle pointer then that wouldnt really be 20ATDC because the FC pointer in is in a different location than the FD pointer.

misterstyx69

iTrader: (142)

Hard to explain but if the E shafts are the same then the internals move the same way.
If you use the FC cover and mount then use the FC indicators.
You know that the marks will show correctly,then alter your Microtech to achieve top dead center that way.
The guy who tuned my car had a hell of a time with an FFE Trigger setup.He went back to basics and it was that very statement of just using the Stock marks for reference then the Electrical adjustment that saved him his hide.

BluRR

iTrader: (1)

I was thinking that I would have to go way back to basics and:
1) Measure the angle of the pointer on the FD cover relative to vertical
2) Measure the angle of the pointer on the FC cover relative to vertical
3) Use the combined angle (total sweep angle between the FD and FC pointers) and mark where the FD pointer would have been on the FC cover
4) Mark the FD pulley 20 degrees clockwise from the notch in the pulley
5)Rotate the engine so that the new mark in FD pulley is lined up with the new on the FC cover which represents the FD pointer.

And that would 0 degrees.

But thats 0 degrees trailing, correct? If so, is the split a standard 15 degrees? If so I would have to mark a further 15 degrees clockwise to get the leading to 0 degrees.

Makes sense or am I flawed?

They issues I have with this is margin of error attainable through all the measuring of the angles and the inclined surfaces, verifying the vertical etc. Every measurement you make inherently includes some level error. So chances are when I am finished I be off by a degree of two. How bad is that in the larger scheme of thing?

misterstyx69

iTrader: (142)

https://www.rx7club.com/general-rota...g-set-1054629/