So this cars had random fits with me and im not sure why its doing certain things and then runs fine the next day so hopefully someone can diagnose my issues...

1. searches for idle but drops below 500rpm constantly after driving for short distances and during startup till operating temp is reached.
2. recently while braking my car just starts to die on me without me adding some type of throttle to keep in in idle range.
3.car floods itself after driving and stopped usually starts fine but sometimes it just says no (damn 7s ) lol

ok So i was driving home today and while coming up to a traffic light i began braking...car dies completely..i try and start it but no luck..pulled the green(injector fuse) to get it unflooded as the car starts up the alternator spins like normal but the other belt remains stationary and squeals...so i turn off the car and start again to see if it would work doesnt start...again process starts over green fuse followed by start and squeal...except this time i go to pull off the road up around the corner as soon as i let off the gas it does (belts still stuck) so of course ecept this time im moving about 20 and dump the clutch in first begins to run fine no issues so wth is going on any ideas?

1.brake master cylynder maybe a guess for one issue
2.balancing or another lower pulley is seizing randomly
3. i have no idea where to start but guessing
4. its a rotary and comes with the territory

 

TPS or vacuum leak. You can bump the idle speed up with the idle screw or throttle stop for temporary help.

Flooding is just something that goes with the stock ECU (rich start map). Dirty injectors and lower compression can also be to blame.

 

your ACV Valve sounds stuck and also your airpump may have been seizing up (if the belt was rolling around it squealing and the rest of the engine's pullies were moving).
Flooding may be due to dirty injectors OR the water temp sender on the back of the water pump housing being either disconnected or "burnt out".

 

A low idle like that with a hot engine means the BAC MIGHT be not working. BAC should be trying to hold a 750 idle.

Check the BAC for a burnt out transistor..................pull the BAC off, it's just two nuts. Look and stare at the guts of the BAC. Have someone hold the key to START. The valve in the BAC should move and stay in that position as long as the key is HELD to START. So? What happens when you do this?

 

are you saying start the engine, or pull the EGI fuse so it wont start (just crank)??

 

Definitely sounds like one of your pulleys is seizing. I had an incident with a fc that had a ac compressor pulley that would randomly seize and kill the engine. Maybe the car dying under braking could be associated with a massive vacuum leak with the brake booster?

 

I was saying don't pull any EGI fuses but just have someone hold the key to Start while you look at the internals of the BAC which you remove by removing the two nuts that hold it on. NEVER pry on the guts of the BAC.

Or before doing that with a fully hot engine..................pull the ELECT plug off the BAC and see if the idle speed drops quite a bit. IF it does drop.............the BAC is working and doing it's job somewhat.

BAC stands for bypass air control. Some companys call a device like this the idle speed control valve. Get the idea of what it does in life by reading those titles?

BAC helps control the idle speed. IT is not responsible for all idle functions though.

IF you pull the EGI COMP then the BAC can't work and you defeat looking at its guts when the key is HELD to START.

I think if you pull the EGI INJ fuse..............wellllllll, I just changed my mind on the fuses. Pull the EGI INJ to keep the engine from starting.

I doubt the engine would start with the BAC valve unbolted 'cause that would be one very large air leak. But pull the EGI INJ fuse and look at the BAC internals when the key is HELD to START. Guts should move aft and stay aft in the BAC body. IF the guts don't move........................BAC transistor in the ECU is kaput and you need to weld...solder in a new one.

 

Ok so what I gather is it could be multiple issues instead of just one ..figured as much ill have to go by my friends shop and have him take a look still learning stuff but have to start somewhere right?

 

Welli removed the belt from the Ac compressor to check if that was the issue but no runs better on power but still bogs and dies at a stop and full throttle so its time to narrow it down to the others one by one