Help please! car wont turn on, no pwer whatsover
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Help please! car wont turn on, no pwer whatsover
hey guys please help me. i have a rx7 gxl s4. and it doesnt have any power. i turn the keys and no power whatsover., but my lights seem to work... im not sure if the battery is messes up, or maybe i busted a fuse because i was messing with my power windows, then tryed starting it, but didnt work... im frustrated
#3
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Hey, don't worry. Same thing has happened to a number of people including me. Check all of the fuses and start looking for grounds. My problem was one ground not connected to the main fuse.
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yeah i just checked em, and the following fuses dont have any power.
power windows
turn
meter
engine
pwr steering
cooling fan
wiper
rear wiper
sun roof
audio
cigar
all of the fuses are okay
but they dont have pwer
what is it?
power windows
turn
meter
engine
pwr steering
cooling fan
wiper
rear wiper
sun roof
audio
cigar
all of the fuses are okay
but they dont have pwer
what is it?
#13
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yeha , i got it started yesterday...but i didnt do anything. it just worked by itself. i messed with the main fuse even though it had pwer then it worked. what is this madness?
#14
Driving RX7's since 1979
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This is actually a common problem that has nothing to do with fuses. There is a single spade connector from the main fuse box to the wire loom that is right next to the battery box. This connects the power from the 80/100 amp fuse ultimately to the ignition switch. Apparently, battery fumes corrode the connectory cutting off electricity no different that what happens with dirty battery posts. I've personally only seen this issue with Verts, but no reason it doesn't happen to any 2nd Gen.
When you messed with the main fuse, you probably jiggled the connector causing it to temporarily connect again. Trust me, it will go dead on you again soon.
Pull apart the connector and scrub it completely with a toothbrush and vinegar/water solution to melt away the corrosion. YOu might want to heat flux and solder to where the connector meets the wire itself. Then coat the connector with dialectic grease and you should be ok.
A quick fix otherwise would be to run a jumper wire from the main fuse (be sure and attach to the battery side of the fuse) through the firewall to the main power connector under the dash. But ultimately you need to fix the problem at the connector location.
When you messed with the main fuse, you probably jiggled the connector causing it to temporarily connect again. Trust me, it will go dead on you again soon.
Pull apart the connector and scrub it completely with a toothbrush and vinegar/water solution to melt away the corrosion. YOu might want to heat flux and solder to where the connector meets the wire itself. Then coat the connector with dialectic grease and you should be ok.
A quick fix otherwise would be to run a jumper wire from the main fuse (be sure and attach to the battery side of the fuse) through the firewall to the main power connector under the dash. But ultimately you need to fix the problem at the connector location.
#16
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Nope, the connector I'm talking about (at least on a Vert) is about 3-4" below the main fuse box next to the battery box before the main wire loom. If it were 10" from the main fuse box toward the firewall, it wouldn't be affected by acid fumes from the battery.
Would be surprised if different on a NA coup, but might indeed be different on a TII.
Would be surprised if different on a NA coup, but might indeed be different on a TII.
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