help from people who have done s4 tII swap
help from people who have done s4 tII swap
I've searched, and researched, and one thing that I find conflicting answers on is the gauge clusters and the wiring harness. Some people say you can leave the NA harness in and you only need to extend a few wires, I would much rather do that then pull the old harness and string up a new one. Then some people say you can use the T2 gauge cluster, and some say you can't. I'm wondering what you found when you did this? This is also the part of the swap that I'm the most nervous about, any tips you could give me would be greatly appreciated, thanks.
I used a t2 motor, wiring harness, and ecu. Didn't use anything from the NA. Not sure what you are talking about. Best to send a email to Kevin Landers at Rotary Ressurection. Kev is the man when it comes to swaps so you might want to run your ideas by him and he should be able to set you in the right direction on what you need
I know what he's talking about. He's wondering if the NA ecu will hook up to a TII gauge cluster, I would say no. Best bet is to get yourself the TII harness, cluster and ECU for a good swap.
I have a s4 88 t2 ecu for sale if you need it. It came out of my running setup. I went ems so don't need it anymore. I will let it go for 50 bucks plus shipping.
Hit me with a PM if you want it
Hit me with a PM if you want it
Last edited by Bukwild; Aug 5, 2005 at 02:15 PM. Reason: left something out
You can leave the non turbo harness in and use that one with only a couple of changes. Minor ones at that.
Your complicating your life if you insist using a turbo gauge cluser. There is no sense in doing that at all. You lose your volt meter and gain a boost gauge that is suspect at best. Don't use the turbo combination meter (gauge cluster).
You do need to use a turbo ECU, boost gauge and afm though. Wiring stays the same for those units if you leave the non turbo harness intact.
Your complicating your life if you insist using a turbo gauge cluser. There is no sense in doing that at all. You lose your volt meter and gain a boost gauge that is suspect at best. Don't use the turbo combination meter (gauge cluster).
You do need to use a turbo ECU, boost gauge and afm though. Wiring stays the same for those units if you leave the non turbo harness intact.
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No time now. Later. The TPS's connector has to be lengthened several inches to reach the tps on a turbo.
The Twin Scroll Acutator needs a solenoind dedicated to it. You have a donor car so I assume it will have the green solenoid. You just have to run two wires from the right side of the engine over to it. What the deal is, is that pin 2K on a non turbo goes to the Split Air Solenoid on the ACV. On the turbo 2K goes to the Twin Scroll Solenoid. So all you do is lengthen the wires from approx the area of the airpump to reach over to the Green connector on the vacuum rack which should be the Twin Scroll Solenoid (memory on colors here).
Then there's the Knock Sensor. One wire outfit on the left side of the turbo engine. I've gotta go. Later. I ran without the knock sensor for a year by the way. I suspect it's usefulness. The car will run without the knock sensor or the twin scroll working., Later, gotta go.
The Twin Scroll Acutator needs a solenoind dedicated to it. You have a donor car so I assume it will have the green solenoid. You just have to run two wires from the right side of the engine over to it. What the deal is, is that pin 2K on a non turbo goes to the Split Air Solenoid on the ACV. On the turbo 2K goes to the Twin Scroll Solenoid. So all you do is lengthen the wires from approx the area of the airpump to reach over to the Green connector on the vacuum rack which should be the Twin Scroll Solenoid (memory on colors here).
Then there's the Knock Sensor. One wire outfit on the left side of the turbo engine. I've gotta go. Later. I ran without the knock sensor for a year by the way. I suspect it's usefulness. The car will run without the knock sensor or the twin scroll working., Later, gotta go.
Stick with your N/A cluster, its better anyways and you have voltage reading.
If anything buy a nice decent aftermarket boost gauge that'll actually be accurate as opposed to the crappy TII cluster boost gauge.
If anything buy a nice decent aftermarket boost gauge that'll actually be accurate as opposed to the crappy TII cluster boost gauge.
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