Okay, Im pretty scared right now. I swapped out my OMP about 1/2 - 1 week ago (swapped out with a used one) and just today it started flooding. Not while running, but when I went to start it up almost every time today I needed to use the fuel cut-off button. I have not needed to use this a single time since I got the engine replaced at the dealership. (before the engine replacement it had to be used regularly).

Now, this kinda freaks me out- so I need some peoples opinion, do you guys think the pump is not working properly and causing engine damage? If anyone thinks this is what's happening, please let me know. I would like to know asap so I could start using premix if thats the case.

Well, let me know, please. I am so freaked out right now- I dont want my engine to die- especially since Im still paying off my credit card from the engine swap. If anyone thinks its damaging the engine, please let me know what premix I should use (how much, what kind of oil- oil brand recommendations too).

Any feedback would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks

 

Most likely not related. But......if you have the clear oil lines from the pump, do this. Take all four lines off and let them dribble for a few minutes (engine off of course). Now reattach them. Go start the engine. Now crawl under the car and stare at the lines. You should see air being displaced by oil as the engine runs. See air bubbles move. This takes some time. If you rev the engine they will move more rapidly. In fact do rev the engine. The pump does not very much at idle.

Or, heck, just take the lines off and start the engine and rev it. See the oil flow. Flow oil, flow. There is also a manual at http:www.iluvmyrx7.com that has the checkout in it for the allowable oil flow.

 

Thats wierd that it wouldnt be related- wouldnt surprise me though, its kinda par for this car to break somewhere else as soon as I fix something.

Umm, your joking about disconnecting the oil lines and running the engine, right? (i would assume that would toast my engine without lube)

BTW, it would be cool if I had clear oil lines- I wish I did... but mine are braided, so I cant see the oil (they were braided ever since I got the car, so I guess a previous owner changed them).

So then you think its nothing? Anyone else have the same, or a different opinion?

BTW, I will upload a pic of my old OMP later- its almost comical.

 

Much later, in fact about 2am Central time I'll find the page out of the factory service manual and attach a jpg to this thread. Not really kidding about taking the lines off. You'll see if you go to the http://www.iluvmyrx7.com and download the manual for the 87/88 car. I can't remember just what section had that. Lubrication or Engine.

EDIT: I just went to http://www.fc3s.org and downloaded the 88 manual, the LUBRICATION chapter, and it takes off the two oil lines going to the rotor housings, and runs a line from each to a container. The with the engine at 2000 rpm, and the metering oil pump lever all the way up, for 5 minutes. The container should have 4/2 tp 5/6 cc of oil in it.

No, running for five minutes will not hurt the engine. Check the sites out, please.

Fortunaly my car has clear fuel lines for the oil metering pump. I can see the air bubbles if I disconnect then reconnect the lines. Something I do every four or five years.humor.

 

Running the engine w/o the OMP for a min or two wont hurt anything. It doesnt flow much at all. I suggest ripping it off and use premix regardless

 

mop

 

OILTWO

 

I saw that, but I dont have any lines to use for testing- but I think I'm just gonna drive until Im on empty and then run premix from then on for insurance (4 oz per tank should be good while the OMP is still on, right?)- It should be fine then I think.

Okay, so check out these 2 pics of my old OMP (this first one shows the crack it had- that I was unaware of until I started un-bolting it and the top of the flange rotated with the bolt; before then I dont think it showed).

So anyways, pic 1 attached here.

 

If you think that last pic looked bad, check out pic 2.

...Hmmm, I wonder why it was leaking? Im actually surprised it didnt leak more than it did (it seemed like a mild-moderate leak).

(Pic 2 Attached)

 

Hey, BTW, how do you make your attached pic show up in the thread?

 

There is no real pressure there. Well, no high pressure. I'm not kidding. I'd take a couple of the banjo bolts out of the pump and start the engine, and while laying under the car, lift the arm of the pump up and make sure its pumping oil. Just put a catch pan under the area. It's not a biggie. Might take a half hour to an hour out of your life.

 

well, no, I'd say the price was nothing special (2-3k, cant remember- then labor was rape)... but I didnt know how to do an engine swap myself.

Hailers: I might check it out a bit later- I am just always kind of hesitant to do anything to my car since everytime I fix something, another thing seems to go wrong shortly after (not necessarily a related problem- but my car is cursed or something).

Besides, you said its probably not related, plus I have read alot of posts remarking how dependable the Mechanical OMPs are. And oddly, it only floods sometimes- it seems like it doesnt flood on the first start-up of the day, only after going on another drive, then trying to start it up a second time shortly after (probably within 2-3 hours).

I may look at it later if I suspect anything- but will just run premix in conjunction for insurance and peace of mind, since its better for the engine anyways. -Do you think I should take a look at it anyways? Cuz if I dont have lines to use to drain it then I cant really measure the flow, should I just check the flow using the arm and guessing if it looks to be okay?

One more question, how much arm movement should you see when reving the engine? And when should it start moving (RPM-wise)? Cuz I could also check the arm movement relative to the rpms.

 

There is supposed to be a pull link from the TB down to the OMP. - It moves with throttle position.

 

About the images: I clicked on your attachement, then when the image showed up, I clicked on and copied the url by right clicking on it, then I went to this reply and scribbled the above words, then just above where I'm typing right now, clicked on *IMG* where upon a block appeared and I then pasted the url I had copied. Then submitted the reply.

So, one way of getting the image to show up is to make your post with the attachment, send it, then when it shows up click on the attachment, copy the url, now go to edit, hit the IMG block at the top of the page, paste the url and send.

 

About images.......if the above is smoke and mirrors....try these words from Icemark: ****Go to your post, just click on the file/attachment to open it.

Copy the path to the attached (from the browsers address bar).

go back and open your original post that you attached the file in, edit it (edit button)

Select image (the IMG button), and past in the path that you copied earlier. Select OK, Select save changes.****


__________________
Play well

Mark

 

I did the same thing when it came time for a new engine. I went to Mazda. The engine was about 2G plus about 500-800 labor. However, since they warranty the engine for a year, you pretty much have to let them replece what they want. When all was said and done, I paid 4G for a stock 86 NA. In hindsight, I coulda have one **** of an engine for 4G if I went somewhere else.

 

Freaking A Dude, doesnt that suck!? I felt raped when I finally drove my car home. The thing that sucks is they tracked down a couple thousand dollars worth of other problems before even CHECKING compression, that would be the first thing they should have checked! That made me angry dude.

Hailers: Thanks for the info for posting pics- I hadnt even though of that.


SureShot: I know the arm moves with the throttle linkage, but I was wondering more along the lines of how much does it move, and around what RPMs does it start to move (cuz the connection to the OMP has some play in it right?)