Help! No electrical power!
#1
Help! No electrical power!
Hey guys,
My car just died, no electrical power whatsoever. Accessories wont turn on, nothing.
Battery has power, all fuses are good, alternator has power, coils are good, and yes i searched.
It seems via search that everyone is saying its ignition switch contacts, but before I go about taking it all apart, anything else it could be?
I messed with it a bit and it worked for a second, but once I cranked it off and tried it again, nope, nothing!
please help? thanks!
My car just died, no electrical power whatsoever. Accessories wont turn on, nothing.
Battery has power, all fuses are good, alternator has power, coils are good, and yes i searched.
It seems via search that everyone is saying its ignition switch contacts, but before I go about taking it all apart, anything else it could be?
I messed with it a bit and it worked for a second, but once I cranked it off and tried it again, nope, nothing!
please help? thanks!
#2
HAILERS
Join Date: May 2001
Location: FORT WORTH, TEXAS,USA
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Key to ON. Does the wipers work and do the turn signals work?
Key NOT to on. Do any lights work? Headlights? Side and tail lights? Interior lights? What lights?
If the lights in the second sentence kinda work and the wipers and turn signals in the first sentence do NOT work, you've lost the power TO the ignition switch. I never said the ignition switch is bad. I said the power TO the ignition switch is NOT THERE. It comes from a connector below the engine bay fuse box. Black in color, one wire outfit.
Hmm. Alternator has power means the ignition switch should be getting power also since its' spliced to the same wire/line. I'm not sure how you would know the alt has power if everything else is dead unless you put a meter to the output wire on the alternator. Got me.
Key NOT to on. Do any lights work? Headlights? Side and tail lights? Interior lights? What lights?
If the lights in the second sentence kinda work and the wipers and turn signals in the first sentence do NOT work, you've lost the power TO the ignition switch. I never said the ignition switch is bad. I said the power TO the ignition switch is NOT THERE. It comes from a connector below the engine bay fuse box. Black in color, one wire outfit.
Hmm. Alternator has power means the ignition switch should be getting power also since its' spliced to the same wire/line. I'm not sure how you would know the alt has power if everything else is dead unless you put a meter to the output wire on the alternator. Got me.
#4
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The ignition switch has a pigtail harness with about three or four electrical plugs.
One plug has a Black wire and a Black/White wire in it (two wire connector). So. With a meter check to see if the pure black wire has batt power on it or not. NOT the half of the plug on the pigtail harness but the half that mates to it that is part of the Front harness.
IF it has batt power, then make a jumper wire and put one end of it into the pure black wires socket and the other end into the socket that has the BLACK/WHITE wire. When you do this, the buss called IG1 in the interior fuse box should be powered up and the Main relay should be heard to pull in. Also the turn signals should work and the gauge needles should work. So? What happened?
The attached jpg depicts the igniton switch plugs.
Horn work?
STOP lights work?
Those last two items have zip to do with the ignition switch and are on a batt buss. IF they don't work, then go to the engine bay and make sure the BTN fuse is good.
To bypass the ignition switch and make the starter turn over, all you do is jumper b/t the pure black wire and the BLACK/RED wire which is in a single wire connector. Starter should turn over when doing this if the clutch is depressed (assuming your car has the interlock switch). Starter will turn over but the car WON'T start doing this.... no power to IG1 doing this. Just starter turns over.
The alternator having power to it's large output wire has zip to do with the car starting or the other items working. It's just a CLUE that the ignition switch SHOULD be getting power to the ignition switches BLACK wire 'cause the alt output wire is spliced to the black wire going to the ignition switch. Cars start all the time without a alt being in the car. Just don't run very long.
One plug has a Black wire and a Black/White wire in it (two wire connector). So. With a meter check to see if the pure black wire has batt power on it or not. NOT the half of the plug on the pigtail harness but the half that mates to it that is part of the Front harness.
IF it has batt power, then make a jumper wire and put one end of it into the pure black wires socket and the other end into the socket that has the BLACK/WHITE wire. When you do this, the buss called IG1 in the interior fuse box should be powered up and the Main relay should be heard to pull in. Also the turn signals should work and the gauge needles should work. So? What happened?
The attached jpg depicts the igniton switch plugs.
Horn work?
STOP lights work?
Those last two items have zip to do with the ignition switch and are on a batt buss. IF they don't work, then go to the engine bay and make sure the BTN fuse is good.
To bypass the ignition switch and make the starter turn over, all you do is jumper b/t the pure black wire and the BLACK/RED wire which is in a single wire connector. Starter should turn over when doing this if the clutch is depressed (assuming your car has the interlock switch). Starter will turn over but the car WON'T start doing this.... no power to IG1 doing this. Just starter turns over.
The alternator having power to it's large output wire has zip to do with the car starting or the other items working. It's just a CLUE that the ignition switch SHOULD be getting power to the ignition switches BLACK wire 'cause the alt output wire is spliced to the black wire going to the ignition switch. Cars start all the time without a alt being in the car. Just don't run very long.
#6
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If there is power to the black wire that is part of the wiring to the ignition switch, then you would try to find out why the ignition switch isn't passing that power thru the switch to the black/white wire that feeds the interior fuse box and the buss called IG1.
IG1 fuses supply power the the fuses that are involved in starting the engine and causing the instrument gauges to work.
I mean you just get a five dollar digital meter out and see if there is power on the pure black wire at the ignition switcs pigtail connector.......or not. Three minute job.
There's no need to splice in any new wiring.
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