91mazdarx7

its soon time for xmas and i should have around $1000 to spend on parts also have some questions along the way look at my current mods in my sig since my exhaust isn't finished i want to redo it with racing beat 3'' dp pre silencer and apexi dual N1 catback then also i want these walbro 255 fuel pump works up to 400 hp right koyo or other aftermarket radiator greddy 3 row or v spec fmic battery voltage gauge 3 gauge A pillar pod and 720 secondary injectors all of these mods and the ones in my sig will allow me to run 10-14 psi of boost on my stock turbo and be safe i wont go over 14 psi because its the stocker does everyone agree with me on these parts or do i need more also if anyone got any of these for sale ill buy them

ilike2eatricers

If you want all those things you're gonna be waaay over your budget.
walbro off ebay $100 shipped
aluminum rad $300-500 depending which brand you get
greddy fmic $900-$1000 + greddy flange and welding costs
720 injectors $200-250
etc...

If you are going for big power I say you start off with the exhaust, fuel pump and radiator. You should port the wg if you havent already.

Other than that it sounds like a plan.

91mazdarx7

yea i know thats over 1000 but im just getting what i can then get the rest when i get more money for now im just gettin as much power as i can from my engine with the stock turbo if it dont blow after i get all these mods done ill move onto upgrading the turbo to im thinking a bnr stage 4 yea im trying to get my exhaust done now but its hard finding people selling the exhaust setup i want the only thing im worried about is the wg porting i wont be able to do it and will need someone to do it for me who can i get to do it so i dont get boost creep with a 3'' exhaust

ilike2eatricers

Actually the WG porting isnt too bad. If you have a die grinder or a power drill you'll only need to buy a long carbide bit (kinda expensive) or you can do what I did and go to home depot and buy several aluminum oxide burrs (you'll end up using a few and it'll take you much longer). Pulling the turbo isnt so bad if you have your ACV and headshields out already. It'll be easier since you removed the ABS as well. Since you also have an s5 you wont need to have a new flapper welded on also.

91mazdarx7

im just getting into working on cars other then changing plugs putting on exhausts and some other beginner mods and don't know much do you think its a job that i can handle how much would it cost to get someone to do it for me is there any step by step instructions with pics

91mazdarx7

also who does everyone prefer when it comes to 720 injectors what brand do you's like

91mazdarx7

i got some more questions is it better to go with a e fan or keep the stock clutch fan when you upgrade the radiator also i know theres a difference between the walbro pumps for the s5 and s4 but is there a way you can use a s4 walbro pump in a s5 car without any problems and whats everyones opinions on what 720 secondary injectors to use

ilike2eatricers

I kept the stock clutch fan with my koyo radiator. Some people have luck with efans but others have had problems. I'm not sure there is a difference other than maybe how it mounts between s4 and s5 walbros. I just got an s5 one off ebay and it's fine. I have greddy 720s in the secondaries currently untuned and I dont bog at all in any rpms. Again some people have had trouble running way too rich. Currently I'm running pretty rich but it still drives like I have 550s.

91mazdarx7

did you buy these greddy 720 injectors http://www.rx7store.net/index.asp?Pa...ROD&ProdID=646 i need two of them so it will be $220 for the injectors right if i bought those so if i run a walbro 255 and these in the secondary injectors will i be safe at any psi on the stock turbo

Bukwild

buy a wideband sensor and actually know whats going on with your car before your apex seals let you know whats up.

91mazdarx7

how exactly do they work ive never been around one are they easy to use

ilike2eatricers

Yes I bought those exact greddy 720s. Greddy 720s are just relabeled nippodensos.

91mazdarx7

got another question i have a brand new apexi auto timer is it worth sticking it in the car or not i always let the car idle for atleast 15 seconds after driving it anyone care to take the time and tell me exactly what a wideband sensor is for and how they work sorry dor all these questions but its helping me out alot by being able to do it myself

ilike2eatricers

TT is not something we really need on oil and water cooled turbos like ours, go ahead and install it if you have it. My TT has some other handy functions so it serves more than one purpose. I'm not too keen on the wideband description but I think it basically is a very accurate way to tell what air/fuel ratios you are running compared to that of say a regular A/F gauge.

soundwavetsunami

Here's the answer to all your questions.



Oh. Wait. I never saw a question mark. Or even a period for that matter. Or capitalization. Save us all an eye-cramp and use some decent grammar. Please.

YearsOfDecay

I have the Koyo radiator... I'm going to be selling it soon and getting a Griffen.. If you plan on modding and can fabricate your own radiator mounts (not very hard actually), I'd go with something bigger than the Koyo and something with better cooling capacity.. you can get a better Radiator for the price than the Koyo... but you might have to do some fabrication.... The Koyo is good, don't get me wrong... but its designed to work with the stock car.. one of the drawbacks is that the intake and output are right above one another, instead of the intake being on the top of one side and the outflow being on the bottom of the other which makes the fluid take a longer parth throught he radiator... when measuring the temps on the koyo with a laser heat gun temps on the hose side of the radiator are 20+ degrees hotter than at the other side of the radiator away from the hoses, telling me that the water is not being cooled as well as it could be with a different radiator design..

You have the Apexi with the thin stick minotor right.... put it in..... after beating your car hard, you need to let it cool for longer than 15 seconds....

A narrow band O2 sensor is what you have in your car now, it puts aout voltage in a specific range that is calibrated to Stoich,,,, cheaper, good for running the car under open loop mode to achieve better fuel economy, not good for tuning which is why the A/F meters that you can hook up to it don't give to a number, the usually just flash rich or lean...

A Wideband O2 puts out a linear voltage over a wider range of A/F conditions but you need a meter calibrated for the O2 Sensor to display and or datalog the output into a useable format. For example we use an Autronic Wideband Meter that uses a Bosche LM4-U (i think thats right) O2 Sensor.... the sensor will put out a voltage from around 9.0 AFR to about 20 AFR accurately, the controller senses the voltage and converts is to an A/F ratio on the display...

Conversely, a narrowband O2 meter will display one voltage for rich aond one voltage for lean... there is a window, say from 13 A/F to 15 A/F (its actually more compicated but this is the basic principal) where the voltage changes from one range to the other.. The ECU in your car is calibrated to that voltage range and when the car is at light throttle, it tries to keep the voltage in that center portion of the graph, which should be near stoich, to maximize fuel economey and emissions. Thiws is why when an O2 Sensor goes bad, your fuel economy decreases and the car can buck and carry on while under light throttle or "Open Loop" Mode

91mazdarx7

thats confusing but i get some of it so i should get a better radiator then the koyo what do you have to say about the fluidynes what radiator would you reccomend me

Bukwild

91mazdarx7 go to this site and watch the LM1 wideband videos. Their are 3 of them

http://www.innovatemotorsports.com/

ilike2eatricers

I think a koyo is good enough. I have plan for 300-350whp. I have the greddy fmic in right now and have no cooling problems with my koyo. This is with the stock clutch fan and stock underbody pan. No aftermarket radiator shroud.

91mazdarx7

do they do this at dyno's with the wideband o2 im going to the dyno after i do my secondary injectors fuel pump and redo my exhaust i can just have them tune it with the numbers thats for our cars instead of me messing something up because i dont know how to do it and dont got the wideband

Bukwild

"do they do this at dyno's with the wideband o2 im going to the dyno after i do my secondary injectors fuel pump and redo my exhaust i can just have them tune it with the numbers thats for our cars instead of me messing something up because i dont know how to do it and dont got the wideband"

yeah why would you want to know whats going on inside your motor with a visual display while actually driving the car. Oh wait never mind i get it