Is it true that apex seals from rotaryaviation.com wear out rotor housings faster than apex seals from let's say atkinsrotary.com? Does anyone know the comparison between rotaryaviation.com's apex seals, atkinsrotary.com's apex seals and good old OEM apex seals? Thanks a bunch beforehand for the help guys....
-Erik

 

What do you mean by comparison? No one has performed proper scientifically valid analysis between the different kinds of seals.

When Mazda designed their apex seals they made a compromise between the hardness of the housing and the hardness of the seals. If one is too hard it will compromise the wear on the other. They also came up with materials that would be condusive to lubrication. There are all sorts of design criteria like that. The first effective seals were made of carbon because it had minimal wear impact on the housings but later they developed more effective steel seals.

 

The only thing you need to know is Mazda does it best.

 

if you need to replace them, go ahead and get 3 mm seals. If you're planning on modding it.

 

Definately not. 3mm seals actually seal worse than 2mm seals and aren't neccessary on any engine, let alone an NA engine. The only time to ever use them is on a very high hp engine running tons of boost, even then its not the best idea.
Just go with OEM or atkins seals. OEM's are better, but if its just a bodget rebuild with used housings, atkins are probably a better choice. The general concensus is that they are softer which means they won't last as long, but it also means the break-in will easier with used housings.

 

IMO the only reason to go 3MM is if your apex seal grooves are worn out of spec, just my opinion though.

 

Hrrrm. IIRC there are quite a few cars running 2MM Apex seals on 20+ LBS of boost daily including some high HP drag built rotaries. 3MM is for poor tuning IMHO. 2 MM will last if your tuned right and on point. Never rush tuning a car, wether a rotary or piston engine. I have seen guys with fully built forged piston engines blow em cause of poor tune and guys with stock bottom ends run crazy boost with great tunes.

 

Yeah, thats a pretty good reason, I guess. It can mask tuning errors on very high boost applications, as well. That way you can just crack your rear iron when it knocks.....

 

i cracked 2 irons with 2mm seals..

rotors are cheaper than rotor housings, if your rotors are worn beyond 2mm servicable limits just replace them instead of going with 3mm seals. some shops recommend 3mm some force 3mm most real rotary techs don't rely on that added buffer or extra cause for wear in the housing.

 

what about ra's super seals those are supposed to be awsome

 

The apex seals in this motor https://www.rx7club.com/2nd-generation-specific-1986-1992-17/frankenstein-motor-pics-inside-610501/ are RA

 

I concur,and John a Mazdatrix said basically the same thing when he built my S5 engine for me back in 01.
3MM's can save your butt when your tuning on the ragged edge,going leaner for that last bit of HP.....but for 99% of us,its not needed and will just wear you out faster.
Mazda has more time,money and people invested in their seals than ANYONE.
They know what works, and they changed to 2MM seals for very good reasons.

 

If you tune to lean the detonation will break 3mm or 2mm matters not. There are people pushing over 45psi on 2mm seals.