rxspeed87

anymore my car is mostly stock

I am looking for ways to help it out a little but I do not want to go through a turbo swap right now

I have a RB header with a filter at this moment
I also have a ported intake waiting to be installed on my car

soon I am thinking of putting a true dual setup on my car though I am not sure of what header to put on be it mindtrain or racing beat.
and what would be a good muff to go with it?

what are some good ignitions I can get for the car also?

cold air box is on the way

anything else you can think of me doing?

dre_2ooo

Pineapple racing sleeves... 5hp for $50? can't go wrong there.

banzaitoyota

Whats the compression of the engine? When was the last time your injectors were cleaned. Condition of all the vacuum lines? Ignition sytem? is it up to factory specs?
All the bolt on "stuff" in the world isn't going to help you if the car is not mechanically sound. Start with the basics and then explore your options

hawaiiangoat

I'm with banzaitoyota on this one. Having a mechanically sound engine is the first step I took before I decided on my options. As of now your list is fairly impressive. It doesn't hurt getting new plugs and wires. For my muffler set up I went with Powertech's Pt1010. There not too expensive, have a low grunt tone, and make my rex look tough.

If you want to go extreme i've heard of guys throwing down a supercharger on their rex. Just some options.
Slater

tweaked

iTrader: (4)

Pineapple is a good choice. Jacobe Ignition if you don't want to spend the money on that the MSD is almost as good. On the n/a exhaust, I have an ausom setup. I have a RB header, I have the pre-silencer but I normaly run whit a Dynomax Ultra Flo SS cat. I can't tell a difference in performance with this cat, only the noise level. I have a custom 2.5" stainless pipe with mandrel bends going to a single Dynomax Ultra Flo round muffler. I was blown away at the performance increase. no noticeable loss of low end and an incredible sound.
the ported intake will help alot too. If you want it to be a daily, keep the stuff like power steering. A/C if you live in the heat. it makes much more confortable. Brakes and suspension. Mazda Racing has a deal on a complete suspension package. everything from poly busshings, sway bars, coil overs and Koni shockes all for about $1600.
If you want the ins and outs of my exhaust pm me. I did the whole thing for around $500

BlackSport0187

Save a new ignition system for last, but buy some good plugs and wires soon. (NGK race plugs and Jacobs 8.5 inch wires)

Go single exhaust, less weight and less backpressure.

If you're not into autocross don't worry about the suspension for awhile, second gens handle pretty well stock. All it takes is practice.

Good luck,
Isaac

PaulC

I had an 87NA I really liked my bonez cat and sigle N1. I dont belive a NA needs a dual set up because you will lose low end torque and unless you rev the crap out of it you wont accelerate as well.

-the pinapple sleeves are good idea, I had mine zip tied open.
-K&N air filter is a must if you think $50 for 5hp is worth it.
-wieght reduction is a must
-change your oil and plugs religiously
-I also cut the top of a second stock airbox top and put some generic rubber seals around the top and sides so it would only draw air from the front
A T2 rear sub assembly or at least the diff and axles, LSD is a definate must.

And if your going turbo 200-250hp is about the max, people will argue that the NA drive train can handle more. BUT the people on this forum that truely know, say it will just break in time. And if your going turbo..... 350+

I didnt mess with mine too much cause it was running so well.

rico05

I run the RB header, RB presilencer, and Racing A N1 (cheap version of Apex'i) single. Sounds mean, and adds a lot of top end. Also, a good clutch is always good. I use the CAP high performance model www.capclutch.com Also look into N20, suspension, and weight reduction.

rxspeed87

hehe the tranny in my car is from a GXL that had a J-spec turbo motor bolted in place

the guy was running fast enough to beat mostly stock FD's

well aware though that I need to get things up to par before I go about modding the heck out of the car

other things I plan on doing before I really get into mods include changing the wires (all the wires are still in spec, but the two trailing wires don't want to really clip on well, and can't hurt by getting new wires anyway). the injectors are going to be cleaned and balanced, most all my vac lines are under a year old and the rest are getting replaced in the next few days, plugs are new, when I get the chance to put on the ported intake the EGR,ACV,and airpump are being removed, the A/C belt is removed at the moment (haven't had the chance to remove the A/C unit and still debating on if I want to keep it or not), P/S unit might be removed soon also. the compression of the motor I am not sure of yet since I haven't been able to get a tester on it though I am assuming that it is within specs still.


how much can I saftly adv the timing without having to step up to premium gas? and if I did want to move up to prem gas how much could I advance it then? right now it is dead on stock specs.

I want to get the pinnapple racing ports but waiting till I can ge the time to swap the intake. prolly going to sell the ported one I have and get a VDI intake put on instead.

already have a bonez filter on the car.

not really wanting to go to a single muffler on the car b/c I want to keep the wieght distro as close to even on both sides as I can plus the looks of a dual I like more. and a little loss in low end doesn't bother me that much since I am looking for more power in the 4000+ range.

there are still a few other little quirks I am working out on the car before I step into getting on the mods but I want to be ready and have a plan so it runs a lot smoother.

how much power can I N/A rear end handle would you say?




oh and a side note how is it I can get my motor to idle at about 200-300 rpms nice and smooth?

mazdaspeed7

Top priority, cold air. You want some that isnt restrictive, but you do NOT want it drawing air out of the engine bay. I just moved my air filter to the nose of my car (pics here) I was amazed at how much of a difference it made over the cole filter being right on the AFM.

Youll definately want a good exhaust with the other things you have listed. But it doesnt matter what kind really, everybody has their preferences. I have the true dual setup, and Im not very happy with it, Im switching to single soon. But my car is still making good power, so it cant be too restrictive.

Dont waste money on race plugs. A set of plugs will probably last you less than 10K miles. and race plugs will set you back at least $30 a set from what Ive seen. Get good wires, but dont get an ignition until youve done everything else.

I dont think the TB mod is worth it on a n/a.

rxspeed87

what did you not like about your dual setup?

and with the TB mod I have done it due to not having anything else to do and I mean it might have helped a bit but it is not really that big of a deal.

2ndGen.rocket

hey mazdaspeed, how exactly did you run that hose through all that metal and ****?

mazdaspeed7

I trimmed the radiator support some. I bent it flat where the hose goes through, but you cant see it in the pics. Once my parents get back in town with the camera, Ill get some pics of the rad support. Other than that, it ran just fine.

rxspeed87, for one, mine is a muffler shop job, without mandrel bends. And its too ricey sounding. It sounds like a weed whacker, and I dont like it. Its definately not loud(new stock mufflers) but it just sounds like crap. I dont know if I am going to make a new exhaust for it though. It depends on how soon it gets sold.

peacekeeper

mazdaspeed7,
Where did you put the resivour for the rad? And I was wondering with the placement of the filter. Is it like ram-air? And do you think you get and psi extrs prom that? I've heard of people getting 2-3psi from a ram-air setup.
Charles

NZConvertible

You would never see that much, you’d be lucky to get 1psi, and that would be from a really good setup with a proper scoop and at high speed. That would be measured at the scoop too, not the engine. A pod filter like that one won't allow that to happen. It's still a really good idea though because of the significant temperature drop.

mazdaspeed7

I think my air filter has a little ram air effect, but I dont think its even coming close to positive boost. But the cooler air made SO much of a difference. That has been my best mod so far. Might be b/c i did it last, but it still made more power and drivability than anything else i did to teh car.

Well, i dont have any pics of it yet, but I have the overflow bottle off an 86 sport, which is right beside the primary coil. Which leaves plenty of room for my filter. Ill get some pics up when my parents get back with the camera. I didnt realize the engien bay pics on my site were so old.