Well here is the problem

-Radiator is steeming (or at least it appears its coming from the radaitor)
-Water is coming out of the cap on the resivor, neck thing.
-Smokes on start up
-coolant light comes on sometimes
-temp gage goes up 3/4 of the way up

I haven't driven it anywhere since this has happend. Also I have a failsafe non factory thermistat.

Note: I have gotten rid of all my emission stuff that was nessisary to up in the RB header (also does anyone know how to get a cold start idel with this stuff gone)

Also is it a mith that you will crack your radiator if you add cold water before the engine cools down?

Thank you guys very much.. GoD BLess

 

sounds like your bogus non factory thermostat has failed, you have blown a coolant seal and how do you expect to pass emission since you live in CA if you have removed them all.

 

Here's a dumb question: do you have the stock clutch fan on that thing. If so, it may not be engaging all the way, and therefore not pulling enough air through the radiator. If you do have a stock clutch fan, I'd ditch it and buy a good efan set up.

Rob

 

or your coolant seals have blown..


when you first start the engine cold grab the upper radiator hose and squeeze it, does it feel like a pressurized balloon? if so then i would lean towards a blown seal, if it is minor then you would have to do the bubble test.

 

You think the fail safe might be the problem? I dont know I thought if it break it just locks into the open possion. That can't harm anything could it. But I guess it coudl be that the tempature is to high for the car. But I herd the useal problem with non factory thermostats is that they don't run hot enough.

Also I herd your sapose to pull a fuse before doing the bubble test, the EUI? If so where is that located?

Thx God Bless

 

Only Mazda factory thermostats should be used. The RX -7 uses a bypass type thermostat, which can be hard to find aftermarket (even those spec'ed for the RX-7). Also, aftermarket thermostats tend to be very unreliable in this application.

In order to do the "bubble test", you need to run the car. So don't pull any fuses.

Cooling system troubleshooting: http://www.aaroncake.net/rx-7/cooling.htm

Also, when you post in the future, please try to use a descriptive thread title. "Help me my mom is getting mad" might be funny to you, but helps no one when it comes to figuring out what your topic is about.

 

Hey, just our of curiousity here, what makes the OEM thermostat better?

 

oops, doubvle post

 

1) it was deisgned for the car and rotaries are super dependant on their cooling systems, but aaron menitioned one part, and i think they open faster or something, dont remember the temperature.
Aftermarket does not mean better Mazda makes some VERY kickass stock parts, look at t2 trannys, fc 4 piston brakes, the rear ends, we had 3 diff kinds of LSDs in RX-7s, (in just the FC if you count the infini), the motor parts are practically bulletproof if you dont blow a apex seal, and lots of other stuff. stick with mazda parts unless you know for a fact that what you're swapping out is better.

Most of the time the reason to get nonOEM Mazda parts is because of cost, some stuff is fine to substitute

 

the factory thermostat has a little bobble pin. what does that mean about the thermostat? no idea, but it's there :P

and holy crap its node.

 

i run a stant thermostat.

i would rather change it to a mazda thermostat cause it seems like it is a little wonky.
i would recomend a mazda thermostat..

just my thought
lol

 

"wonky" ?? is that a word?

 

what the hell is wonky....

i run a stant thermostat as well, but i dont feel comfortable at all with it, its just what i had at the time i put my engine back together, i think im gonna change that out soon.

another question:
how is the thermostat going to cause a blown coolant seal unless the thing overheats? i dont think he mentioned it overheating

 

dare i mention the diff mounts? thermal pellets? s4 mechanical omp's?

but your right, most of the stuff mazda makes is built like a tank, not to mention the fact that we do have one of a kind cars with one of a kind engines (ignore nsu for a moment)

 

If the thermostat fails to open, the car overheats.

Just because he didn't say (or know) that he overheated the car makes no difference at all.

 

GM thermostats work as well but are slightly more restricting, they could be used as a temporary replacement if you have any laying around for a late model small block chevy, they look almost identical to the mazda t-stats but i would also suggest using only a factory replacement not the cheap aftermarket ones.

 

Is replacing the coolant seal an engine out job?

 

uhhhh, yea, just a bit.