RotorBalls

iTrader: (1)

Please

alright background info for those that don't know
Just put a rebuild in, TII housings, s5 rotors, street port, mazda trix true dual exh, act 4 puck, blocked off omp, blocked off the EGR valve, removed air pump...hmm I think that about covers it. After a slew of problems, I fix one and two more pop up.

It didn't take much to get her idling, she seems to want to idle fine now. I had it running for quite a while and probably shouldn't have because of the problems I noticed before but ignored.

Here's the problems I'm getting some weird ticking noise from the upper intake manfold area. When I pull the fuse you'd pull for the deflood trick, I think it's the ignition fuse, the sound stops. I'm also getting a weird buzzing noise from the power steering which doesn't stop when I pull that same fuse. Ended just taking the negative battery off to get it to stop.

Well I included a vid clip of the sound after I had it running for a few min. Sorry in the vid I promised you'd get to hear the car run, but right after that I tried to turn the car over a couple of times and on the third try the entire car lost all power. Not sure where to look for this fuse. Basically nothing in the car works.

So any idea what the ticking noise from the upper intake area is? I can actually feel the ticking.

Any idea what the buzzing noise is from the power steering?

Any idea where my coolant leak might be coming from where it would roll off the top of the bell of the tranny. I shined a flashlight around and couldn't see anything wet up top

oh yeah and most important...why don't I have any power...where do I look?

Thanks a ton for any suggestions

If you turn the volume up a bit you can hear the ticking noise
http://members.***.net/thagonzinater/MOV01375.MPG

try not to laugh at my gay *** voice or my momentary loss of thought

BobbyRX

The leaking on top of your tranny is probably the same hose that blew on me. Its the one thats closest to the bell housing, sticking straight up from the block. ITs under the manifold and you can barely see it. I had to remove the UIM to get to the hose and replace it. You could use long neeedle nose pliers to squeeze the clamp and work the hose loose. I used a regular screw-type hose clamp when I replaced it cause I didn't want the hose blowing off, again.

The clicking sounds like the fuel pulsation dampener. I don't know if it applies to Mazda's though, so I could be totally off base on that one.

Not sure on the PS pump.. could be pressure bleeding off? just some guesses..

RotorBalls

iTrader: (1)

The hose leak problem should be easy. I think you're right on that problem. That was the only hose I saw back there, but I didn't notice the leak. To tell you the truth it almost looked like the clamp wasn't on it but was hanging below on the piping. It's really tough to see back there, might have to remove the UIM as you suggested you had.

keep in mind these noises are occuring without the keys in the ignition

ViperKillerWannabe

IT'S GONNA BLOW!!!!

Seriously, the ticking noise sounds kinda like something electrical. It may be coming from the injectors, but there's no reason for them to even be powered at that point.

RETed

The ticking sound is the BAC, usually - I'd ignore it.

The coolant leak can be coming from the myrid of hoses that flow coolant to the throttle body.



-Ted

RotorBalls

iTrader: (1)

Hard to ignore it if it's causing my electrical problem. Something caused my car to lose all power? Is there a fuse under the dash that could have blew and caused this? None of the fuses under the hood appear to be bad.

RETed

Inconsistent loss of power is typically loose battery terminals or corroded wire where it goes into the battery terminals.&nbsp I would inspect these first if possible.

This is no way that ticking noise could cause the power loss - if it's a short, it would've blew a fuse instantly.



-Ted

RotorBalls

iTrader: (1)

ticking noise seems to have stopped for now. Seems to come and go. The leak seems to have stopped also. Only problem now is the water temp seems to keep going up and I have to shut it down at the three quarter mark of the needle. Yeah you can all say don't trust the stock temp...which is probably true, but for the most part mine has always been accurate. Also the buzzing noise from the power steering pump might be just due to low fluid...not sure if that'll fix it, but it does look like I'm right on the lower fill mark