reidnoah

iTrader: (1)

hey guys need help trying to fix this. so today i was driving home from class and went to fill up my tank. i then proceeded to go get an oil change. on the way my oil pressure dropped to 20 and at a stop sign i had dropped down to 0. when i got there i shut the car down thats when we noticed there was hella oil everywhere all over the inside. it was coming out of that bolt in the center of the main pulley. when i checked my dip stick it was over filled and smelled of gas. also i noticed that the bolt freely spun how can i fix this

PvillKnight7

iTrader: (16)

y0 dawg ya need some hella engine rebuilding skillz cause that dont come lose. Some one must have been all up in that engine doing ratchet ****. Ya, u could tighten it with a 19mm deep but that's a bolt that don't come lose on it's own.

Tighten that bolt up (19mm deep), change your oil, and keep an eye on them both.

pfsantos

iTrader: (1)

Any work done on engine? Rebuilt or maybe the oil bypass valve was replaced (it's behind the front bolt). That bolt should be torqued - maybe it wasn't? But odd how it went right after the oil change...maybe someone wants you to go LS1 lol.
Seriously though, torque it and and correct the oil level and I'd check both every day for a while.

MaczPayne

iTrader: (5)

If that bolt came loose then you might have more problems than just leaking oil...

http://www.mazdatrix.com/faq/pulley.htm

reidnoah

iTrader: (1)

I didn't get as far as the oil change,they wouldn't touch it not with the oil everywhere. And no ones touched the engine at all. So my best bet is to open it up, just in case?

pfsantos

iTrader: (1)

Yes. And make sure to check the link two posts above. Do you have the FSM for the car? Invaluable, and shows torque spec (the front bolt also requires blue loctite).

KNONFS

iTrader: (14)

I thought the e-shaft bolt was a 19mm...

There is no way that bolt came loose on its own, and proper steps were followed. For starters, there is a "safety" plate the prevents the bolt from coming out/getting loose (you need to remove the plate, in order to remove the main pulleys). Even if that plate wasw removed, that bolt is torqued with loc-tite, its one of the hardest bolts to remove in the entire engine.

I had a oil leak problem from there once, right after I replaced the hub/pulleys. I managed to pinch the copper sealing washer on the bolt, upon reinstallation. The only solution was to replace the washer.

pfsantos

iTrader: (1)

Good point on the sealing washer.

Bolt is technically 14mm cuz a bolt size is referred to by its thread size. Head is 19mm (socket size).

The bolt could still back out as long as the hub follows along with it (very easy on a running engine). While the pulleys and plate are held to the hub and won't allow the bolt to come out in relation to them, the whole assembly including hub can still move. Easier to see than explain lol.

Acesanugal

iTrader: (5)

I just went through this.. my front main seal had somehow managed to fall backward completely into the front cover. You need to break the bolt loose just a tiny tiny bit.. wedge the clutch pedal firmly to the floor... remove the bolt and replace the front main since you're there, bolt o ring and the crush washer... you should then remove your starter and wedge the flywheel to torque the front bolt down.

KNONFS

iTrader: (14)

Good catch on on the bolt size!

I ran an aftermarket serpentine pulley kit without the plate. The kit replaced the hub/pulleys, and had no provision for the safety plate. Had that setup for almost a decade, without any issues (granted, the bolt was torqued to spec, and lock tite was used)