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Old 06-14-09, 06:17 PM
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MI Help if you can!!

Ok here's what's going on. i was driving down the street at normal speeds (40mph)nothing fast at all when all of a sudden the car started hesitating and shut off. I have a fuel cut-off switch on the car so i switched it off and then back on and started the car. when i put the car back into gear to start driving again the car was extremely sluggish it would barely go (imagine trying to accelerate from 10 miles an hour in 5th gear, thats how it felt). so on the drive back home (was just around the block from the house) there was a lot of popping coming from the exhaust in the back (not sure if it was misfiring or backfiring). pulled back in the driveway and car died. started the car again and idle was very erratic but low, stayed running but it didnt want to. engine sounds horrible went from a very nice (loud) smooth idle to very deep low idle. engine shakes very rough when idling. Went to start the car this morning and car would not stay running. there is a faint smell of fuel around the car after starting it. im not sure if it is a fuel problem or maybe the inevitable blown apex seal. please let me know what you think and ask me any questions you need to better diagnose this problem. if there are any southeast michigan guys around and wouldnt mind stopping by to maybe help out i would much appreciate it. i keep a fridge stocked with cold beer :-) i need help asap this is my daily driver.

P.s. car is an '88 NA SE with TII trans.
Thank you,
~Andrew
Old 06-15-09, 03:28 PM
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Please guys I need your help!!
Old 06-15-09, 03:31 PM
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sounds like a blown motor. first things first do a compression check
Old 06-15-09, 03:37 PM
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Compression test, but in my unprofessional opinion: backfiring, smells like fuel, so there's fuel. Shut off, won't stay running...could be electrical?
Old 06-15-09, 03:56 PM
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I checked all fuses and vacuum hoses. even tried the jumping the yellow plug trick. voltage shows 13.5 when running.
Old 06-15-09, 03:56 PM
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is it easy to do a compression test with a regular tester?
Old 06-15-09, 03:57 PM
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Compression test, then - get yourself peace of mind by ruling that out. Sure you're getting spark?
Old 06-15-09, 03:58 PM
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Originally Posted by adubspyder
is it easy to do a compression test with a regular tester?
Even if you don't have a tester it's as simple as remove plug, cranking engine I believe...listen for the puffs of air. There should be three identical-sounding puffs, if you have one strong and two weak you lost an apex seal.
Old 06-15-09, 04:04 PM
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The engine starts but just wont stay running. it doesnt even crank long when its starting but the motor just sounds awful compared to how it used to.
Old 06-15-09, 04:16 PM
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Also if i do use a compression tester (not mazda factory one) what should my numbers be at and what numbers are bad i.e. blown??
Old 06-15-09, 04:35 PM
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My first guess would be that you lost a coil, and you're running on one chamber. Pull the plugs and check for spark on all 4 plugs-----shut the fuel pump off first-of course, nothing like adding insult to injury by burning down the engine compartment.
Old 06-15-09, 09:16 PM
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ok well the update is i did the backyard mechanic compression test without the tester. i took a plug out of the front seal and puffs sounded strong when cranking. took plug out of rear seal and puffs were very very faint. im thinking the problem is in the rear rotor. towed it up to the dealer a few hours ago so they will call me tomorrow with a definitive answer on whats wrong. if it is a blown seal does anyone have an S4 TII engine they would be willing to sell me? Thanks for the input again.
Old 06-15-09, 09:18 PM
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if you do the compression check it's pretty easy to tell whats going on. if you have greater than 90 psi then your motor is not blown.

If you see a 0 then your motor is done and you need to start saving for the rebuild.
Old 06-16-09, 04:41 PM
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Well just got word back from the dealer... BLOWN :-( O well guess this an excuse to do the TII swap i always wanted :-)
Old 06-16-09, 05:32 PM
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Originally Posted by solareon
If you see a 0 then your motor is done and you need to start saving for the rebuild.
Actually, you should start saving for a rebuild before it ever gets to this point! lol
Current Personal Rebuild fund: $2,200 includes goodies and extras


Sorry to hear about the motor. If you are really interested in swapping, there's lots of resources on here to use. Good luck!
Old 06-16-09, 06:43 PM
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I appreciate all the help and insight you guys are awesome on here.

~Andrew
Old 06-17-09, 01:17 AM
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wait...

you also need to check the TPS. its a common cause for fuel delivery issues.
also check your cat back. if it was a gradual progression of loss of power and what not. sputtering as well as a "pfft" sound that happens when idling (if it can even idle) the cat could be clogged.

just a few other things to look at b4 dropping a crap load of cash on a rebuild or a new engine
hope it helps!
Old 06-17-09, 10:47 PM
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Did the dealer show you the readout from the tester? Are you sure the dealer knows what the hell they where talking about?

I had a dealer tell me my engine was dead at 55k miles. I kept loosing coolent and they said the coolent seal was the problem. After replacing the broken over flow hose the car ran another 98k miles.

Just something to think about.




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