2nd Generation Specific (1986-1992) 1986-1992 Discussion including performance modifications and technical support sections.

help identifying wire

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Old Jul 11, 2011 | 10:40 AM
  #26  
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okok i think i got it. in post #14 the connector should go to the fuse box. and then check for 12v continuous once hooked up. if 12v plug back into square connector and car should turn over?. correct?
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Old Jul 11, 2011 | 10:44 AM
  #27  
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wooo hoo satch you are the man. thanks for the help. I at least got it to click and all dash lights came on. I need to charge my battery and see if it will turn over all the way
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Old Jul 11, 2011 | 10:55 AM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by florotory
okok i think i got it. in post #14 the connector should go to the fuse box. and then check for 12v continuous once hooked up. if 12v plug back into square connector and car should turn over?. correct?
If you disconnect the rectangular plug and one of them has voltage then it is connected to the battery. Is this what you are saying is occuring or not?

If the plug is disconnected, the part which does not have voltage will have a ring terminal on the other end and this goes to the fuse box as described when you look at the fuse box and see the retractor fuse, it would connect to the right side of this fuse box.

As a test, if things were connectd properly then w/key to on the wipers and turn signals would work.

Also, the dash lights just means the fuse box is receiving voltage from the battery and this would occur if only one Black wire w/voltage is connected to the fuse box, thus two Black wires connected to the fuse box are not needed to turn these lights on.
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Old Jul 11, 2011 | 11:00 AM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by satch
If you disconnect the rectangular plug and one of them has voltage then it is connected to the battery is this what you are saying is occuring or not?

If the plug is disconnected, the part which does not have voltage will have a ring terminal on the other end and this goes to the fuse box as described when you look at the fuse box and see the retractor fuse, it would connect to the right side of this fuse box.

As a test, if things were connectd properly then w/key to on the wipers and turn signals would work.
go it. I unpluged the square connector. hooked it up to the fusebox. and checked for voltage after that. once i did determine it had voltage i pluged back in and attempted to start car and it did click. and all lights came on in the dash so it worked. just not enough juice to turn the starter. it just would click
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Old Jul 11, 2011 | 11:12 AM
  #30  
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So you now have two wires connected to the fuse box in which if the Retractor fuse is at the bottom of the fuse box when looking at it that the wire which has voltage when "not connected" to the fuse box is connected to the left side of this fuse box. Correct?
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Old Jul 11, 2011 | 11:15 AM
  #31  
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Originally Posted by satch
So you now have two wires connected to the fuse box in which if the Retractor fuse is at the bottom of the fuse box when looking at it that the wire which has voltage when "not connected" to the fuse box is connected to the left side of this fuse box. Correct?
i will check as soon as it quits down pouring outside. damn rain. im pretty sure its correct but ill doublecheck
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Old Jul 11, 2011 | 02:08 PM
  #32  
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ok the red wire (left side) is the one that comes from battery--->Starter----->fuse box.
the other side has the back wire attached from previous pics

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Old Jul 11, 2011 | 02:22 PM
  #33  
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So if the Black wire on the opposite side of the fuse box eventually ends up at the ignition switch as it should then it is wired properly. Normally, the rectangular plug combines the Black wire from the ignition switch and mates it with the Black wire coming from the side of the fuse box that is on the opposite side of where the Red wire is connected. If this is how you have it wired then it is good.
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Old Jul 11, 2011 | 02:27 PM
  #34  
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yup thats it. now i think i wired my starter wronng. but that will be an easy fix as long as i didnt fry it. I shoulda labed all the wiring as i took the motor out but i planned on it being a 2-3 day job not 2 months. thanks for the help
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Old Jul 11, 2011 | 02:44 PM
  #35  
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Well while im here i might as well verify my starter hookup.

The B/W wire that is in the 1st or 2nd pic goes to the starter blade connecter

then the post on the starter that has the smaller wire coming off of it and going into the body of the starter is greound

and the other post that has nothing on it except a nut would be from battery

correct?
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Old Jul 11, 2011 | 02:52 PM
  #36  
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From: tulsa,ok.
Use the pic in post #41 for a reference point only and then follow Karack's directions on how it should "properly" be wired.


https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...=starter+satch
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Old Jul 11, 2011 | 03:11 PM
  #37  
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ok huge issue. when i go to turn the key to start the cafr. i hear a click (which sounds like its coming from the starter) then i trips the breaker from my battery. could that be that my starter is hooked up wrong? any other areas to check"?
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Old Jul 11, 2011 | 03:13 PM
  #38  
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I don't know how you have the starter wired.
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Old Jul 11, 2011 | 03:24 PM
  #39  
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ok wire with red boot is from my battery. the other wire on the left of the b/w wire is my ground which has the wire on it that goes into the body of the starter


Last edited by florotory; Jul 11, 2011 at 03:26 PM.
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Old Jul 11, 2011 | 03:27 PM
  #40  
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Did you read how Karack suggested how it should be wired up? I'm going to guess no! The ground wire from the battery goes to the mounting bolt of the starter. If you look at the pic which I supplied it would be the triangular part of the starter housing that has a bolt hole in it. This is where the ground wire goes. Is this how you have it? From your pic it appears the answer will be nope.
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Old Jul 11, 2011 | 03:35 PM
  #41  
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lol i did read it. so let me make sure got this right. the neg cable that i have coming off the neg term (at least what i have a neg now) off and connect it to the starter bolt that goes into the transmission or block whichever. leave the wire that goes to the starter housing alone and just tighten the bolt down on it? leave + cable where its at.

sorry if im confused. been working on this thing forever and all the sh*t seems to get jumbled, even simple tasks
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Old Jul 11, 2011 | 03:46 PM
  #42  
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In your pic there are two terminals. One needs to have the battery positive to one and the other gets the short wire that comes out of the starter itself and the ground from the battery goes to the mounting bolt as you stated already.
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Old Jul 11, 2011 | 03:58 PM
  #43  
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got it. man thanks again. it turns over but no start got spark but not sure about fuel so ill start there. thanks again for being patient. i greatly appreciate it
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Old Jul 11, 2011 | 04:13 PM
  #44  
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If you jumper the fuel check connector w/key to on the pump should turn on.
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Old Jul 11, 2011 | 04:14 PM
  #45  
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Originally Posted by satch
If you jumper the fuel check connector w/key to on the pump should turn on.
yup did that and it turned on. doesnt turn on without it
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Old Jul 11, 2011 | 04:18 PM
  #46  
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I wish you didn't say that. Sure you have the AFM plug connected properly? With the key to on and the jumpered removed, the Brown wire in the check connector should have battery voltage and the Black wire should have 0 volts.
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Old Jul 11, 2011 | 04:28 PM
  #47  
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ill check the voltage
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Old Jul 11, 2011 | 04:31 PM
  #48  
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black one has voltage and brown has none
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Old Jul 11, 2011 | 04:46 PM
  #49  
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Originally Posted by florotory
black one has voltage and brown has none
If these two wires were measured w/o the jumper in place then it appears the main engine ground on top of the manifold is not attached properly.
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Old Jul 11, 2011 | 04:48 PM
  #50  
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your talking about the ground just under the intake manifold correct?
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