Help!! How do i adjust camber?!?
10-21-03, 10:42 AM
#28
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ok I know what you guys are talking about, the stabilizer bar needs to be taken off? The reason I haven't swapped the front shocks over is because when I took the passenger shock off my parts car it was pushing down so hard on the hub assy that it smashed and totally decimated this little dust boot thing around a ball joint down on the very bottom of the hub and it looks kind of important. It had grease in it. I dont see how I can keep it from doing this to my good car when I remove and reinstall the shocks.
On a much brighter note while I had the wheels off my car I inspected my brakes because me and a friend had swapped over the calipers and rotors off my parts car and new pads but I had never bled brakes before and my friend didn't know what the **** he was doing. While I was looking at my passenger side caliper, the dude had done that side, he had forgotten to tighten the 2 caliper bolts!! They were each a half inch out of the hole! I was wondering why my car was veering to the right when i braked and what the sound from my wheel was!!! So I tightened them down. Then my friend said we were supposed to use the brakeline connection that is attached to the shock to bleed the brakes so he loosened it while i depressed the pedal...it didnt bleed quite right as you all can imagine. SO i bled them properly, by myself with a jar of brake fluid and a 2x4 under the pedal and DEAR GOD it is like heaven!! It used to vibrate soo bad when i braked and after we fixed it the pedal was very spongy and it veered left. But now its magnificent. Sorry this is so long, its just a big step to have my brakes fixed...I get excited and ****, cause I did it myself.
On a much brighter note while I had the wheels off my car I inspected my brakes because me and a friend had swapped over the calipers and rotors off my parts car and new pads but I had never bled brakes before and my friend didn't know what the **** he was doing. While I was looking at my passenger side caliper, the dude had done that side, he had forgotten to tighten the 2 caliper bolts!! They were each a half inch out of the hole! I was wondering why my car was veering to the right when i braked and what the sound from my wheel was!!! So I tightened them down. Then my friend said we were supposed to use the brakeline connection that is attached to the shock to bleed the brakes so he loosened it while i depressed the pedal...it didnt bleed quite right as you all can imagine. SO i bled them properly, by myself with a jar of brake fluid and a 2x4 under the pedal and DEAR GOD it is like heaven!! It used to vibrate soo bad when i braked and after we fixed it the pedal was very spongy and it veered left. But now its magnificent. Sorry this is so long, its just a big step to have my brakes fixed...I get excited and ****, cause I did it myself.
10-21-03, 10:56 AM
#29
Good thing you didn't have an accident. On the front suspension. Jack the vehicle up under the frame. Use a scizzor or hydraulic jack under the lower control arm. Lift control arm, remove top nuts (strut), lower jack and control arm, strut assembly will come down without violent force.
10-21-03, 12:18 PM
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Originally posted by Turbonut
Good thing you didn't have an accident. On the front suspension. Jack the vehicle up under the frame. Use a scizzor or hydraulic jack under the lower control arm. Lift control arm, remove top nuts (strut), lower jack and control arm, strut assembly will come down without violent force.
Good thing you didn't have an accident. On the front suspension. Jack the vehicle up under the frame. Use a scizzor or hydraulic jack under the lower control arm. Lift control arm, remove top nuts (strut), lower jack and control arm, strut assembly will come down without violent force.
10-21-03, 01:06 PM
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Spectacular...I will give that a try tomorrow... I'm doing some chores around the house now. I need something to support the wait of the hub too right, so it wont put all the weight down on that boot and ball joint?
10-21-03, 01:59 PM
#35
Keep in mind as soon as you remove the strut to spindle nut/bolts the hub assembly will fall outward. Just support it by hand, or tie it back with wire, rope etc. It's difficult to explain when you sitting in an office, but loosen the 4 bolts at top, and run the nuts to the top of the threads. Lower jack until you see the top of the strut moving down. You then know the strut is fully extended. Remove the spindle bolts, nuts, then you will be able to take the 4 nuts off and remove the strut assembly. If ball joint boot is broken, yes it will cause a problem by allowing dirt to contaminate the joint. Just take everything slow. The jack will actually hold the lower control arm in place. If that wasn't there, the arm would drop until a suspension piece would stop it.
10-21-03, 02:03 PM
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ok cool im pretty sure i can handle that..my boot is already in "not so great condition" so it cant take much abuse of me moving the hub assy all over the place.
Last edited by Rotory; 10-21-03 at 02:07 PM.
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