I have an 86 NA FC. There is a picture of it below. It runs flawlessly in daily driving conditions and even hauling *** on the way to work. The problem is when I am hitting corners hard.

If I just enter and clutch kick its fine. But if I flick it or transition the weight more heavliy then it boggs out for a second. Everything still works electrically, it just feels like ignition is cut or fuel or something. It will only bog for a second or two then its perfectly drivable. But I cant drift it like this.

I recently added a ground wire that goes from negative terminal to motor and firewall. I added these after the problem started in hope of fixing it. Otherwise I have never opened my hood for anything. Bone stock NA with intake and exhaust. Also it does this with any amount of fuel in it. Also my car does the 5-beep warning sequence almost all the time. I doubt that will kill the motor when i flick it, but I know that sequence has to do with some steering sensor.

Help me drift more!!!!!

 

edited^^

 

See if you have a dirty fuel sock.

 

+1 on the sock, if it's not the sock then hook a voltmeter up to the pump black/white wire and duplicate the condition and see if it is losing voltage indicating a wiring issue to the pump.

 

buy one from mazda or they are all the same?

 

also, I know people have resolved issues with replacing thir sock but, I can't see how its causing this problem...

 

Start pushing on the harness while it's idling.

My car would cut out during left turn drifts and it turned out the harness had rubbed against an oil line and would make electrical contact under left turns.

 

It's probably the sock, but if your fuel tank is less than 1/8 full, your sump could be starving. What fuel level are you running?

 

its happened at all fuel levels.

I just don't see how the sock could cause it only to do this during hard weight transitions

 

just change out the damn sock already

 

+1
If you had the answers, you wouldn't be on here asking for help now would you? Youre starting to sound like the guy w/ the t2 swap in an fb, that refused to inspect his fuel system for 5 repetitive pages (and he still hasn't checked his tank).

Save yourself some time and just listen.

A dirty, our partially clogged sock could easily cause this type of issue and it takes 5 minutes to check--go do it. Also a shifting our compromised writing harness could be the culprit. I had a t2 that would idle like ****, but if you grabbed the harness between the pass strut tourer and the block and tweaked it, it would run perfect...until you let go. Turned out to be a combination of cracked injector clips and suspect grounds. How well is your battery secured? Have you joked up a volt meyer to moniter fuel pump voltage?

Theres a bunch of things that COULD be wrong, but a smart person verifies the proper operation of one component/system(typically starting with the most basic) first before moving on to inspect the next item. In this case that would be the fuel pump sock, so go check it before you post again.

Thanks.

 

this is partly the reason i get tired as hell of coming here to help people, when they refuse to listen and do a 10 minute job. we could start listing the most difficult things first like checking voltage and resistance levels at the ECU while the issue is occurring..................


if you don't like the answers then don't ask the question. or go spend $20k at wyotech and think you know something about cars, unfortunately you still won't.

it's annoying as **** when people whine/question about these things, even if you live in the sticks you can order a sock online for less than $15 shipped to your door in a matter of a few days. and it is a pretty damn good indicator when 4 people tell you to check the sock that it isn't an unwise $15 investment.

 

Is your battery tied down? Make sure it is not colliding witg power steering puley. Same exact thing happened to mycar during drift practice. Zip ties had broke and battery would slam into pulley causing a short bog. Found a big gash on battery shrtly afterwarda which is how I fnd out.

 

I already bought the part. I will be doing it tonight. I just enjoy understanding things as well. To me, I don't see the correlation between the symptom and the solution so I am asking. Thanks for the input guys.

junito: ya its all secured down well. Thanks

 

generally it's just that the sock gets dirty on the bottomside and tends to pull fuel from the topside of the sock once it's gets all crapped up. on hard cornering it sucks air and the impending bog out condition is pretty common and even in the FAQ thread.

 

I appreciate your constructive response of the question I asked. seriously, thanks duude. I hope this works.

 

Same thing happened to my homies s13.. turned out to be electrical

Oh and where's a build thread on your car?! ***** dope

 

thanks man!! i don't have one... its stock other then some stance coilovers, aero, wheels, probably 100hp or whatever an na s4 makes. drove it about 5 events and streeted it many times, this is my first real mechanical problem right before a 2 day event (No Star Bash), so i am freaking out haha.

 

fucked, not a single screw came out.

 

hose it down with PB blaster and let it soak in for a day or 2, re-soaking the screws periodically.

after that take a dremel with a cut off wheel and notch the screw heads for a flat blade screwdriver. cross your fingers and attempt to remove the screws, replace all with new stainless steel ones.


and welcome to my world.... i should take a video camera and document my life so people realize how shitty it is on a daily basis.

 

haha cool that sounds like a solid idea.

 

Use an impact driver on those rusty blobs.

 

and id recommend getting some nice shiny stainless bolts so you wont have to deal with rusty ones again theyre m4x.7 10mm

 

So if the outside looks like this....I wonder what the inside looks like

 

Probably perfect.