Ok, so I was driving home, doing about 70-80. When every light in the warning cluster lit up, the lights seemed to blink when the blower motor was running. Oil pressure, temp, alternator, and everything else seems to be fine.

I stopped at a gas station, and noticed that at idle (bouncing btw) the lights flickered on and off.

Not sure what to check, but I definately need some major help.

Here's something that's crazy, I just had my windshield replaced yesterday, and the tech mentioned that the window antenna on the old glass was not connected, but that he connected the new one. Could this be my culprit? probably not, just some rantings of a worried owner of a ill RX-7

I need help fast...

Thanks

BTW 90 GTU

 

Could be your alternator. Have it checked at autozone. Its free.

 

Sounds like alternator to me, too.

Check the belt, first. They can slip without making noise.

 

I'll get it checked in the am, any body else got any ideas ???

 

Would the alternator cause the bouncing idle??

 

Thats is probably gonna be it man. When your alternator goes the idiot lights shine all at once. In my case I almost got a tan from my interior lights being so bright at 18v charging lol


santiago

 

Might check the belts too. I know if a serpentine belt breaks, most of the warnings go off.

 

Yea, if the belt is slipping that'll DEFINATLY happen. Check the tension and condition.

 

In the owners manual it clearly outlines in the event of alt failure (be it by belt slipping or breaking or failure of the alt itself) all the warning lights will come on.

Doesn't anyone look at the voltage gauge there N/A??? No wonder Mazda removed it on later cars.

 

I was going to post that your alt could be bad and to check the belt but looks like a few people beat me to it :-)

 

I had same symptom its your alternator, well it's your voltage regulator.

 

Yes, I can tell you that now before i had my fd alternator had that bouncing idle problem with my fc alt. but when I put the fd alt. bouncing idle stop so yes it might cause it a bad alternator, and now that i fucked up my fd alt and put the fc one i'm having the same problem lol.

 

I was checking all of the gauges when this started, and all of them were still within normal ranges, including the voltage guage it sat around 12-14 volts.


Thanks

 

Weak primary grounds can also give those problems.

 

The alt belt was loose, so I tightened it and I will road test it to see if that corrected the problem, because at idle it seemed to be functioning normal again.

I have my fingers crossed....


Should I still have the alt checked/replaced ? or just plan on it for later.

Thanks

 

Did you check with a voltmeter?

 

If it fixed the problem you're fine, if not, have the alternator checked.

 

How about - doesn't anyone read anything? Those owner's manuals and service manuals have a wealth of info if people would sit down and read them. And yes, we know the service manual is big, you don't have to read it cover to cover, that's why there's an index.

 

TEst drove car under electrical load, and guess what... the damn lights came back on...

I guess that means the alternator is bad huh?

The voltage would drop from 12 volts when the lights were out, and 10 when they came on.

I guess the alt is starting and stopping, I think this would explain the volt moves.

Anyone know where I can locate an alt online??

 

junkyard.com

 

You could consider an alternator upgrade. You can contact Silverrotor on this forum.

Those FD alts will solve a lot of problems...

 

If the voltage is reporting less than 12.6 volts, the alt is not even working, and you are running only on battery power.

 

What the trade off (good and bad) of going with an FD alt, and does it require antthing special?

 

I can't say for sure with NA applications, but there are no negatives on TII's, especially ones running a lot of electronics.

Silverrotor sells his as a kit, complete with the proper harness plugs and also a dual pulley if you want it

 

yeah! Bouncing idle for instance