polito Racing

iTrader: (1)

hey guys

I finally put my car together. I had the intake mainfold taken off. replacing the water o rings. so i replaced all the vaccum lines and gaskets cleaned the manifold in the inside (it was very nasty by the way) and painted some crap. anyway for some reason now my cooling fan is not working. is there anything i could have disconected or forgot to conect that anyone could think off? are there any cables or sensors in the intake manifold area that could be the reason for my problem?

the other thing that I'm trying to figure out is that my RPMS are at 2K steady the whole time wont go down for nothing. like i said all the hoses are new and i checked for leaks and found none.

thanks in advance!!!


the car in question is my 87 T II

NZConvertible

Are you talking about the stock thermoclutch fan? What do you mean by not working? Is the engine overheating? Need better info...

polito Racing

iTrader: (1)

the actual big fan (Belt driven one) is working the the little one isnt. yes it tried to overheat but i caught it on time. the gauge was starting to go above from where it normally sits 1/2 way. The cooling fan warning light is also comming up. everything is factory no aftermarket stuff.

I know it had to be something i unplugged or forgot to plug back because the car was running perfect before i took it appart. It started leaking water by the O-rings that go on the intake and i caught it while i was warming the car up to go to work, so i didnt even drive it like that . i fixed the leak so i guess thats a good thing now i just need to figure out whats up with the fan.

NZConvertible

That's not what's causing the overheating. Find that problem and fix it. Worry about the auxiliary fan later.

polito Racing

iTrader: (1)

thanks man. any sugestions?

w0ppe

Have you bled your coolant system or while doing so, find that bubbles don't stop popping up?

polito Racing

iTrader: (1)

i think i found what it was. the coolant line that goes into the manifold from the rear iron under the throttle body was pinched. no water was going thru. I'm in the process of fixing it as we speak. hopefully this is the problem. thanks for the imput so far and the ones to come!!!

Paul

NZConvertible

That won't cause overheating, since the bulk of the coolant is still circulating through the engine.

texFCturboII

iTrader: (17)

How's your thermostat looking? Could be on it's way out? And that auxilary e-fan is like..... 20 years old. It could just be dead. But regardless, check and re-check all the wires going to it, relays, fuses, etc...

polito Racing

iTrader: (1)

ok now the car is not overheating anymore!!! had it running for about 45 minutes and it didnt overheat and the fan works WTF!!! my logical explanaton for it is that since there was no water running thru the manifold the computer couldnt register the coolant temp and it wasnt sending a signal to start the fan I dont know call me crazy if I'm not making any sense!!!

anyway the hose was pinched so i did a new one with a loop so it wouldnt pinch and had to change the connector plug on the BAC. my other car had to donate!!! but now the car will not idle so i'm thinking either the middle gasket is leaking or one of the intake pipes is. I checked for loose vaccums and i dont have any. if there is anything else you guys think i should check please let me know. and really thanks a lot for the support.

is there a way to find out if the gasket is leaking without taking the throtle out?

NZConvertible

Okay, you're crazy...

The coolant running through the manifold has zero effect on how the engine runs and how well it's cooled. The ECU's thermosensor is in the thermostat housing and sees coolant flow all the time. Plenty of people run with the the manifold coolant path capped off.

Also the ECU has nothing to do with the auxiliary cooling fan. It's a totally separate system with it's own temp switch.

polito Racing

iTrader: (1)

LMAO like i told you man i pulled that one out of my A$$. I'm still replacing the thermostat and some other crap.

would relocating the fuel presure regulator cause the car not to idle? its trying to idle but it just dies.

anyway man i really appreciate your help ill be back on the forum tomorow and let you know if i figured it out. got to go to sleep i have to be at work at 6.

ITSWILL

iTrader: (12)

You can spray some wd-40 around any intake gaskets and if there is a leak it should change the engine rpm. Other than that double check all the vacuum lines. Hope that helps.

NZConvertible

You mean you relocated the stock FPR? Or installed an aftermarket one? What exactly did you do?

If this is an aftermarket FPR, what static pressure did you set it at? It should be 37psi. Excessive fuel pressure will cause mixtures that are too rich for idling.

polito Racing

iTrader: (1)

i relocated the FPR. i put a banjo bolt on the fuel rail, ran a hose from the fuel rail to the firewall where the FPR is now and one from the FPR back to the return line and of course the vaccum hose. i didnt want to install the aftermarket one at the moment because i was testing and making sure that the intake gaskets had sealed and that it would run and idle the way its suposed to before i started swaping parts arround. i guess just being careful in case i had to back track a few steps. like now!!!. but i didnt remove or eliminated nothing all i did was relocated the FPR to later on replace it with the other one. i just didnt want to go thru the removing the throttle body and all that other crap again to install the new FPR. the car doesnt idle but once it goes over 1000rps runs fine and builds good boost. today when i get home from work ill check to see if i find what is wrong.

pfsantos

iTrader: (1)

You can spray some propane near the intake gaskets and any vacuum hoses and nipples. If they leak, the RPM's will go up.

polito Racing

iTrader: (1)

ok i took it apart again. one of the injectors started leaking maybe that had something to do with it, it was a very bad leak. i guess with that leak it wasnt building enough pressure in the fuel line i guess the autozone seals dont work that good at all. i ordered a new injector o ring kit from mazdatrix hopefully that wont give me anymore troble. i cheked with starting fluid and didint find any leaks. now since i had to remove the throtle again should i buy anothe middle gasket or this one should be good to use it again? its a brand new one to me it looks like its still good.

ericgrau

iTrader: (1)

If your temperature varies it's either a sticking thermostat or air in the system. Try the thermostat first, replace with OEM only.

NZConvertible

That shouldn't cause any problems, but I can't figure out why you would do that...

twistedriver

Did you reinstall the black plastic spacer that goes on the primary injector fuel rail?

polito Racing

iTrader: (1)

yes i did

polito Racing

iTrader: (1)

ok guys i replaced the injector O rings and found that fitting i couldn't find for the fuel rail where the factory regulator used to be. now i have one question. is the fuel pressure supposed to drop in the regulators pressure gauge when i turn the power to off? if this is normal ill be putting everything back together tomorrow after work.

ericgrau i replaced the thermostat also like you said. i really don't know what a bad thermostat is supposed to look like but i'll post picks if you want me to.

polito Racing

iTrader: (1)

Bump. Come on Jason please dont leave me here stranded .

MazdaMike02

iTrader: (4)

To test your thermostat throw it in some boiling water, it should be obvious if its working.

NZConvertible

Yes, because the fuel pump is no longer producing pressure.