cactuscactus

Hey so I did another compression test today. I had done one before and thought I had good numbers. But I believe i did the test incorrectly previously. Here are the steps I took for this test.
1. Warmed up motor.
2. Removed Schrader valve from compression tester.
3. Taped down air release pin on compression tester.
4. Attached tester spark plug holes for both rotors and tested individually.
5. WOT, cranked about 15 seconds per rotor. (I used L1 for the first test and T2 for the second).

I uploaded a video of my results. Thanks for the assistance

j_tso

iTrader: (2)

The needle on rotor 2 has two little bounces then a bigger one, that points to a bad apex seal or one that's stuck.
Testing compression this way won't give accurate numbers but even bounces are what you're looking for.

cactuscactus

So a while back when I tested without the release pin taped down I read about 105 psi per rotor. But I didn't have the pedal at WOT so I'm not sure how accurate those readings were.

j_tso

iTrader: (2)

With the release valve closed it'll read the highest compression of the 3 rotor faces, without the pedal down it'll read lower since the engine can't suck in as much air.

cactuscactus

Hey thanks for the info. That's good to know. So with one weird apex seal. Got any ideas on what path I should take forward with this motor?

WondrousBread

It's hard to know until you take it apart.

IMO you're in luck though, you caught it before a seal let go and damaged anything else. A rebuild is always a bummer but at least you're likely to find re-usable housings and irons.