TalkRotary

OK, I'm stumped. I recently installed an ACT 9lb. flywheel and clutch with a heavyduty pressure plate. I also changed out the pilot bearing (spins freely) and the release bearing. I also changed the master cylinder and the release cylinder. When I do to bleed the system (with an assistant), I depress the clutch and open the bleeder screw, I close the bleeder screw and release the clutch, but everytime I have to lift the pedal off the floor. When I pump the pedal, it's soft and it will go to the floor and come up with only a little pressure at the end of the clutch. I can row through the gears with the car off, but when I start the car, I can not put it in any gear. The car will start in first gear on open road and then I can shift, but I can't start the car and put it in gear. PLEASE help me, what can I do to solve this? I've already removed the trans about 3 or 4 times. I didn't see anything wrong broken or missing. Could I not be getting enough hydraulic pressure to the heavyduty pressure plate causing it not to go in gear? Can the clutch pedal be adjusted? THANKS ALOT, ANY HELP IS APPRECIATED!!!

LameCarnivore

Ok, here we go. I had the same problem, almost exactly. I replaced every clutch component save for the pedal and still nothing changed. So I sent it to Mazcare in atlanta. When they fix it I'll post their resolution and hopefully it will help you out. No one on this forum seems to know the answer, but in just the last few weeks about three people have posted with this problem, leading me to believe that there may have been a defective parts run put to the market. Who knows. Sorry that I could not be of more assistnce.

asherwood

Hmmm, yes the clutch pedal can be adjusted, it's in the FSM. If you check the FAQ at the beginnning of the 'second genreration...' section you will find a link to an online copy, get it asap.


Try this...

With engine off, have someone else sit in the car and depress the clutch pedal, you watch the slave cylinder and see if the actuator arm actually moves out and pushes the clutch release fork towards the back of the car.

The idea here is that the slave cylinder pushes the release fork which in turn pivots and depresses the pressure plate fingers to dissengage the clutch ( but you already knew that, right?).

If this basic function is not happening it would act like the problem that you describe.

As another thought, if this a N/A, we have what is know as a stepped flywheel, this step distance is critical (the distance between the flywheel friction surface and the top of the mounting boss), I assume that the components that you used to replace the stock ones are the correct ones?

Templeswain

I depress the clutch and open the bleeder screw, I close the bleeder screw and release the clutch, but everytime I have to lift the pedal off the floor


I assume that when you first put fluid in, you get down and pump the pedal by hand until it starts to give stiffer resistance.

While I've never tried it, just putting fluid in, and then immediately bleeding it is going to be the opposite way to do it.

Anyway. You may also have to adjust the clutch pedal travel. If you look at the assembly on your clutch pedal you'll notice that the rod that goes into the firewall from the pedal has an adjustment nut. You may have to adjust this nut in relation to your new clutch. It will either extend the rod, or it will shorten it depending upon what is required.

assman20a

i had that problem with a heavy duty rebuild, the prob is that the system is to weak when it gets old and cant take the pressure so the master probably needs to be replased because that is what i did. plus put all new fluid in it to because it brakes down after awile. try replasing the fluid first then move on as you see fit
good luck

mac_dad6

get a stell braide slave cylinder hose. alot of the time the stock hose cant take the pressure from the heavy duty clutch and the hose expands causing you to get no pedal feel.