My 1988 mazda rx7 turbo II has a slipping clutch and a whining throw-out bearing. If i'm cruising at 40-45 mph in 4th gear and then I floor it the rpms go up but the speed doesn't increase, with the throw out bearing whining, and rpms slightly dropping whenever I depress the clutch pedal. This tells me to replace the clutch disc, pressure plate, and throw-out bearing. At Advanced Auto Parts there are 4 clutch kits for $122, two of them are 9 1/4" disc and the others are 8 1/2" disc, then within the two 9 1/4" there are different size bores; 1" and 1 1/4" so which one do I need? Also, about how high does the car have to be off the ground? I plan on resurfacing the flywheel if it is recommended, could I get the flywheel off (52mm socket, breaker bar, and cheater bar?)??? Also I hear I have to remove all the exhaust downpipe and back. Could anyone name all the tools I would need for this job? I've got a haynes manual and downloaded the clutch section of the fsm to go by. I've searched, please help. Thanks

Zach

 

the larger one would be closer to turbo sized clutches. as for the center bore i remember hearing that NA clutches had a 7/8" and turbo was 1" but i don't know about that for sure or where to find out.

you will want something to hold the flywheel in place and use a high torque impact on the nut if possible. heating it with a torch will help break it free as well.

 

ok lets see, sources say the turbo clutch is 240mm and NA is 225 mm...my calculator says thats 9.44 inches and 8.86 inches. the S5 stock clutch was 235 mm which is 9.25 or 9 1/4 inches. that must be what they are selling.

 

ok, thanks...but i got no impact wrench or torch. I think I can look up the part by vin number, i'm not sure.

 

anyone done a clutch job before, just say something please.

 

mazdatrix sells a ring gear holder for about $20, it will keep the flywheel from spinning while you use a cheater bar to break the big nut loose. it is about the second best way to get the nut off in the car if you don't have an impact gun.


and even a cheap propane torch from Wal-Mart would be a help, i have a small torch and it helped a bit to get the front e-shaft bolt off of my engine when my impact gun couldn't do the job alone.

 

It's not hard, jack the tranny up a bit, unbolt it and pull it down. Then you'll have access to the clutch on the flywheel. I'm not sure if you'll need to hold the engine by a jack, but i don't think you will considering where the engine is mounted.

 

thanks again karack, i just found on mariah motorsports that the 87-88 turbo clutch is 240mm, so 9.44 inches? I think I will fabricate something of my own to hold the flywheel still...very low on money for now. thanks though.

 

one thing before u pop the nut off the flywheel and that is to pop the flywheel off the engine, which is very hard and delicate rubber hammering. u need about 6 things
1) 3 1/2in i believe socket (which can be purchases at the mazdatrix or racing beat and
comes with an extra extention
2) need a cheater pipe with to fit the extention fly wheel nut remorer
3) flywheel stopper (which can be purchased at mazdatrix)
4) timing gear remover (this is for the 2 bolt placements on the flywheel, which can be
purchased very cheap at pepboys. This will add u in popping the flywheel out
5)rubber mallet for pounding the crap out of the flywheel (make sure u pound all around to
pop it lose, pound, turn the remover, pound, turn the remover etc.)
6)lock nut liquid, for reinstallition.

P.S when poping loose the flywheel watchout as it may pop out suddenly and may fall to the ground, which isnt a good thing; have fun and gl

 

one thing before u pop the nut off the flywheel and that is to pop the flywheel off the engine, which is very hard and delicate rubber hammering. u need about 6 things
1) 3 1/2in i believe socket (which can be purchases at the mazdatrix or racing beat and
comes with an extra extention
2) need a cheater pipe with to fit the extention fly wheel nut remorer
3) flywheel stopper (which can be purchased at mazdatrix)
4) timing gear remover (this is for the 2 bolt placements on the flywheel, which can be
purchased very cheap at pepboys. This will add u in popping the flywheel out
5)rubber mallet for pounding the crap out of the flywheel (make sure u pound all around to
pop it lose, pound, turn the remover, pound, turn the remover etc.)
6)lock nut liquid, for reinstallition.

P.S when poping loose the flywheel watchout as it may pop out suddenly and may fall to the ground, which isnt a good thing; have fun and gl

 

to prevent the flywheel from falling on the ground i'll leave it threaded slightly, could I use a hub puller to pull it off? Well is the exhaust hard to get off? Anything else to look out for? thnx,
Zach

 

a flat bar puller works best, if the nut wasn't overtorqued it may come off without a puller as mine i just loosened the nut and tapped around the perimeter of the flywheel with a hammer and it came off relatively easily but this is not always the case, sometimes you need to tighten a flat bar puller and heat the center of the flywheel and e-shaft some and tap around the edge with a hammer or mallet.

 

I think i've decided that if there is no oil or scars on the flywheel then i'll just leave it on there. And bump.

 

i would at least scuff it up with some rough sandpaper and clean it thoroughly if you don't resurface it, that will help the clutch break in properly or it may chatter.

 

good idea, thanks i'll do that.

 

okay, so far i've taken off the entire exhaust save the downpipe cat convertor, the shifter, driveshaft, unbolted rear crossmember, removed the intercooler (for better access). Well, I need some help on removing the clutch release slave cylinder, and i removed the two lower engine to trans. bolts and the one under the oil filter but there's two more on the top passenger side...anybody got a tip for getting them out? I have two hydraulic floor jacks, one under the engine and one under the transmission. This job is a little harder than I expected, and taking a long time. Anyone got any tips?

 

i've always had the upper intake off when i took the bolts out so i can't be of help with this one...

i do believe you can get to the two passenger side upper bolts from the passenger side from behind the manifold if you are nimble enough. there is also a bolt on the driver's side below the oil filter adapter, i usually take the filter off to get a wrench on that one. then there is 2 slave cylinder bolts, should be easy enough to get those out.

 

I couldn't get a socket on the slave cylinder bolts but I am trying with a combination wrench...would taking off the upper intake be worth it? would it make it that much easier? i took off the hood already so that i can get a leverage bar over my combination wrench, I got the one off under the oil filter. its freakin hard, thanks
Zach

 

if you haven't taken a T2 UIM off before then i would say no, i have done it enough that it is easy enough for me. there is also a possibility of breaking the gasket so i would try to get it off either by maneuvering your hand back there or trying to get it from underneath with a long thick extension and breaker bar, a 1/2" extension with reducers would be better than a 3/8" extension as the thicker the extension diameter is the less it will flex and try to work against you like a rubber band winding up..