i went to look at a nice stock 1990 na with 88k miles for $4500. he said he also had an 86 track oriented na with 230k miles for $3500. i want a reliable daily driver that's fun for when my fd is down.

i first was interested in the 86 and ended up putting 500 down on it.

86 pros
street port, catback, intake... uh
beefed driveshaft, slotted rotors, front back strut ties, racing? suspension, rims
1990 na tranny, lightwieght flywheel and a few other upgrades
everything on it works. everything except for a/c ofcourse (is a word) because im destined to never buy a car with a/c
engine starts up great, no smoking and has a smooth powerband
the brakes are tight and so is the steering it feels good to drive
there's about 50k miles on the engine since the rebuild and port

cons
230k miles
its some form of maroon
has seen a track a few times
paint is rough so is the interior
10" wide dent right at the gas cap
shakes a bit at 70mph and tires need to be replaced

then i received some more funds and decided to look into getting the 90 since i wouldn't loose the 500 down because its the same seller. it looked much nicer but the ride quality suffered

90 pros
88k miles good history
completely stock so i know what im working with
paint and interior is in decent condition and its white
started up good engine seemed fine
everything works. even a/c so either way i'll probably get the 86

cons
power steering doesn't work its not the pump or fluid. i think its electrical
stock so its not as exciting as the 86
it shook worse than the 86 after 60mph. the tires also need to be replaced. both cars could just need tires and an alignment but it could be worse.
i'm not sure but i thought i saw a little bit of white or grey smoke behind me after i stopped at a stop sign but it didn't smoke any after that.
the brakes didn't engage until the pedal was half way down
it seems to me like he bought the car just to flip it

the 90 is suppose to be the nicer car but i'de rather have nicer ride quality than cosmetics. i may just need a few things fixed and it'll be a great car

the 86 seams great but i'm worried about the miles on it

thank you for your dedication and any general fc buying tips are welcome

 

I'd keep looking, both those prices are far too high for an FC. Of the 11 FC's I've bought, $2200 was the most I ever paid, & 2 were free. One of the free ones went up to deals gap & back for DGRR, after about $2000 of money put into it. It's still my 'dd as well

 

it seemed like good prices to me compared to autotrader. i've got 500 into it that i'm not getting back and i'm actually getting them for 4200 and 3200. so i really need advice on wich is preferable.

all of the fc's around 2k that i found are in much worse condition than the two i'm looking at. i'm looking for something that works now and will work for at least 6 months.

 

Go with the best body/paint/interior.
The mechanical stuff is much easier and cheaper.

 

Try craigslist or this forum. I've seen better deals.

 

really? it's that bad of a deal? it was on craig's list

 

I paid 2400 for mine with a v8 swap and 150k on the chassis. Solid interior and a horrible after market paint.

 

for those prices, you can get a nice TII instead...

 

I disagree. You can have anyone paint a car. Finding some one to rebuild a rotary is like trying to find a needle in a haystack where I live. It's not exactly cheap either.

If the older one is in great mechanical condition, and has high compression, get it. My car has 67,000 miles and was blown when I got it. Miles don't mean ****.

 

Bodywork/paint is easily twice as expensive as any mechanical work you might need.

 

I have 500 in body work. That's it and that's after my paint cost. Of course I'm doing it all. Are you buying to build, dd, or what?

 

Ripoff

 

Be patient, I s have spotted t2s for 2500 to 3500 every 3 months since I bought my n/a for 1800 three years ago. Now that I'm doing a t2 swap, I want kick myself every time I see a cheap t2.

 

Agreed, I got lucky and got my t2 project for $1000 , nice t2 with small probs that are running go for $3-4000 from my experience looking.

Rotary >Pistons

 

So, you'd sell your "free car" for $2000 now?

Not around me you can't.

It would be interesting to ask these folks how they value their cars now.
Clearly, some folks (looking at Landon here) live in a target rich environment...I doubt there are even 11 running FCs in the entire Denver metro area, much less up for sale.

I got my car essentially for free so an extension of the above quoted logic would say that an FC is worth $0 and you get one for nada.
Obviously, not going to happen.

My opinion about the relative value is irrelevant, as is everyone else's.
If you like the car and have the money, do as you will.

Whatever you do though, constantly remember that everything you put into the car post-sale is for your enjoyment only, the value of the car will continue to depreciate.

 

You're right, people with money that are better off financially will sell something they don't care about for cheap just to free up space in their garage/driveway.

Whereas others with less money who really hate to see their car go and feel forced to sell think its worth the price of diamonds.

Rotary >Pistons

 

If the seller is not a dealership, then I agree with the previous members who said that the prices are too high. However, since you have already made a down payment, I guess you are committed. Given that, the 90 sounds like it is worse shape, so I would go with the less-expensive 86. Personally, I would install an AC if I lived in your area, but to each his own.

See this link for buying tips:
How To Buy An '86-'92 Non-Turbo RX-7

 

the most important factor is it being drivable now and for 6 months. i'm about to get my fd back and it has a lot of work to be done to it. can i really find a good working na for $2200?

i don't care as much about cosmetics as far as the body goes but i do care about the car driving in a straight line. i also don't really care that much about performance.

i'm leaning towards the 86 since they're both overpriced and because it feels good to drive.

can somebody give there input about the 230k miles? apart from the powertrain.

 

Way to much money like previously said. That shaking sounds shady either way. I'd pick the 90 but i like stuff stock. Too bad you cant swap the wheels since theyre 4 and 5 bolt :P

 

Buy the S5 but only offer 2500 because that's about what it's worth... if the P/S, tires and brakes were any good it might have been worth $3500 at most. But not in that condition.

Don't buy the 86. At this point in time, 230,000 miles is NOT about the engine, it's about the miles on the chassis. Also, the word "track car" should give you a hint about how it's been driven.

 

You guys always amaze me about how you want your cars to be so cheap and worthless. Don't you want your investment to appreciate so you can get as much money back as possible when you sell it? Don't you want to be able to flip an FC for a profit?
If OP get's burned it's his fault for not reading the FAQ and doing his research, I really think it's wrong for all of you to be parading around saying anything more than $1500 for an N/A is outrageous.
Get your heads out of your asses, we find deals because we know what to look for.

With that being said the guy is asking too much. If the '90 was in good mechanical and exterior shape $4-4,500 would be top of the market but reasonable for a car in very nice condition.
It's hard to say for the '86, it really depends on what has been replaced or modified for that money.
As for the shakes, an alignment will do wonders for you. Keep in mind, if the car was well maintained it would not be out of alignment that bad.

I would offer less for either car, I also won't buy an FC at market value though. I've had as many or more than Landon.

 

i'm getting the 90 for 3600. a woman put 75% of the miles on the car, it has three owners to date, it hasn't been modified and the engine has 88k original miles on it so it's clearly been taken care of. and the current owner knows alot about 2nd gens.

the overall quality could be better for the price but i think 3600 is reasonable.

the power steering works. he installed an aftermarket steering wheel that was chafing. i think it needs a spacer.

but the car hesitates above 7 or 8k rpm. from what i've researched it's either a fuel filter or something far hairier. but that doesn't mean the engine is about to give out does it? i think a good tune up will do a lot for it. i need to compile a list.

 

1989 Mazda RX-7 Convertable

 

1991 Mazda RX7

 

HELL NO!! Boingered 7's are a sub-species to be exciled.