Pinfield357

ok i called off work today to put some time into my car. well i had replaced the PD with a banjo bolt and had my injectors cleaned,

i got it all put back togather and went to start it up and to my surpise it started right up actually started better than it did before i took it apart.

car started and went directly to 3K RPM stayed there for maybe 2 sec then started to fall (usually did this) but it usually would stop at about 1000 and stay there till warm then move down to a nice steady 750RPM

well after staying at 3K RPM for about 2 sec it fell to nothing and stalled. i restarted it agian (started right up) and it did the same thing except this time when it hit 1000 RPM i gave it some gas to keep it running and did this for maybe 30-45 sec then let off and it immidiatly fell back down and died. my question is

1. how do i go about checking for vacume leakes (does this sound like a leak from what i understand it should still hold an idel not a ood one but still idle)

2. how do i check the TPS

3. what else can i check???

when its running it runs GOOD but then dies

Pinfield357

sorry to add so soon but how would i go about checking the BAC for idle speed?

and i no longer need to know how to adjust the TPS i found that

1987RX7guy

iTrader: (3)

Well some people use starter fluid or carb cleaner to check for vac leaks. I just listen to the engine and look for the area with the hissing. WHat you should do is check if every thing is bolted on tight and see if all the hoses are pluged into the nipples correctly. I had something like this happen to me once and it was the joint taht hooks onto the TB that was loose. I tightened it up and BAM!! better idle.

Felix Wankel

Did you hook the brake booster line back up? I always forget to do that.

Pinfield357

felix where is it and what does it look like? and after holding it at 2K RPM for a min or so and slowly let of the gas it had a relaly bumpy idle around 1K RPM does this sound like a vac leak to you guys??

EDIT: i did notice that the harb plastic line that connects the BAC to the IC pipe was crakced bad so i figured that that was an obvious leak so i went to the audo parts stor and bought at piece of 5/8 heater hose to replace it it went on rel easy and i had the same problem so i think im gonna go get some hose clamps and put that on good an tight adn see if thats my problem.
i hope so!!! i dont wana take the IC back off and the UIM to look for a vac leak

importboi22

you replace those lil injector seal thingys hard lil o rings thats what caused my problems when it came to vac leaks

flubyux2

make an intake tester out of a rubber coupler from Home Depot, and a PVC pipe end cap. push the end cap into one end of the rubber (Fernco) coupler and clamp it down, now drill it out w/ a 3/8" drill and auger the hole out even bigger so that a tire valve stem will pull thru it and be nice and snug.

Now, what you can do is pull the intake hose off your turbo, and slip this contraption over it and clamp it down. Then, take your aircompressor, charge it up, and bust out your air chuck and put about 10 psi into your intake. make sure the air compressor isnt running, or youll never hear the leak...or it will be hard. so anyhow, if your intake is sealed up, you shouldnt hear any leaks or hissing, and it hsould hold the pressure and bleed off VERY slowly. if it bleeds of rather quick, you got a leak somewheres.

you can take a piece of 3/8" fuel line about 2-3' long, stick one end in your ear, and use the other end to poke around the engine. if there is a hissing noise, youll be able to hear it very easy w/ the hose...like a stethoscope.

Pinfield357

you mean the gormates that go on the bottom of the injectors?

good idea flubyux2 thanx

Pinfield357

took it for a drive and it spit and sputters when it tries to boost (it wont boost at all) it just holds what ever RPM im at to keep form going into boost